1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

best of both worlds

 

I sold a 8.4 3rd member to a guy on craigslist. He came over to my place in his 1st gen tundra AC. His truck had the v6. He did swap in Deaver rear springs. He absolutely loved his, but he did admit that he should have had them build the spring pack a bit different so that it wouldn’t sag so much when he had a bunch of weight in the bed. At that point though, i think i’d just install firestone airbags and those Daystar air bag cradles to go with.

 

I bought a use canopy about 10 years ago on craigslist to go on my old 77 F250. It had a sliding window on one side, and a flip up window on the other. It was a name brand canopy, so i drove over to the local canopy dealer. I asked the owner if he had any flip up side windows that would fit my canopy. He went to the back room and came out with a new flip up side window. I traded him my slider for his flip up + another $50 that i paid. I felt like i made out like a bandit. We swapped out the glass right then and there in his shop. FYI, i still have the canopy and i’m still happy about the flip up window.

 

I have the same regret with my Alcans.
I wish I had em build em for another inch of lift and like 200 more lbs capacity.
Iirc I told em 2" lift and 200lbs.
That's why I plan to add a leaf soon to them. But I will say they are very nice n flexy off road, even with a mild load. They handle great unloaded or mildly loaded on road too.

 

I'm definitely jealous of anyone with the windoors on their canopy.

 

Those are nice. That's what I have on both sides of my SnugTop. Struts are blown out, and the locks.... well you know, MI. Being 6'3" it's easy to reach in there, but I don't keep anything in there because I have no keys to even see if they will function/lock, including the back window. A good project for next year when I have all the free time. aka retired!

 

Speaking of good humans...
@whodatschrome


Return package $ should be going out today. Thanks dude

 

I ordered keys for my canopy from Amazon.
@shifty` gave some solid advice: check the locks for an alphanumeric code. Search that code with "key" and you should find em. I think I paid like $5 for a pair.
As for the struts, those can also be found pretty cheap on Amazon. Just measure the collapsed and extended lengths, then pick the weight. I'd assume your windoors use like 15-20lb struts. Your back window is likely 28-35lb struts.
I got 38lb for my back window and only installed one, left the old one on the other side. Now I have a spare.

 

Great advice, especially the weights/struts. I messed with the locks a couple years ago and on the windows and it got pretty cringe worthy... they can just spin freely all the way around.

 

On the weights, I think they're like garage doors where you should measure the weight of the door on a scale when it's at its maximum force, and order based on whatever number pops up on the scale. Obviously, the glass door on a mid-rise or high-rise will be larger, heavier, more substantial, and need a heavier duty shock. Not necessarily a longer shock, because the insertion points are adjustable, so I think they stick with similar length, but heavier throw.

I can tell you, I ordered the 35lb (Suspa C16-02648) for my Leer, and it's too damn much. When I open the door with the truck in the garage, I have to hold the door and slowly let it open, else it smacks into the garage door above it hard enough I'm worried the glass will smash. I'm thinking about ordering the 28lb (C16-02622), which is what it came with from the factory, to replace them. If I do, I'll have some extra 38lb'ers I can kick to another member.

 

Mine are worn out enough to be perfect. I can set the height i want & it stays there. Even with a cardboard shade or light attached to the glass. I do need to modify the latch arms on my handles, though. A little more engagement might keep my glass from coming open when i dont want it to.

 

You can replace the locks too, infact you can replace the entire latch

 

I'd have to look at my emails, but I had them do the same on packs. Maybe it was an extra 500 lbs

I feel like it was because I remember asking via email what the 500# was, and i was so tired that day it was like I was staring at ancient Nordic rune chiseled in the stone, but heavily weathered.

Anyways, I've had these same packs on two different trucks and I still love my alcans

 

I've seen a couple of these (stock 2wd) for sale nearby recently for under $5,000. Still really tempted to transplant one onto to my Tundra. No way it's happening soon though.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/4dD1jMUO4S4?si=g9hEEDcWOcbI6R9o

 

Airbags don't get enough love around here (or really anywhere). Extra load capacity when you want it. All the suspension travel when you want it. Or a combo of both by experimenting with bag pressures. I dunno, maybe im the crazy one.

 

Everything has it's compromises

 

I agree. I was gonna do an add a leaf but did the Firestone airbags instead and use them for when I tow the camper. Otherwise they sit at 10psi and don’t bother me at all. Also did the day star cradles so no issues at the shop when necessary to take it in. Was cheaper/easier than leafs as well

 

Airbags cant do this.

 

I agree. If my leaves weren't already worn, I'd probably just add airbags for when I carry my camper or tow. But I tried that with my Tacoma, years ago. Couldn't afford both so I decided to add airbags and leave the worn springs. Eventually realized the springs really, really needed to be replaced. So this time, I'm doing new leaf springs first. Again can't afford both, at least not at the same time. Already have Sumo Springs, sunk cost. But airbags with the Daystar cradles are an ideal setup if you're not already running on blown leaf springs.

I had a photo of my Tacoma with the airbags fully inflated. I didn't measure, but my back end was at least a foot higher than the front. Pretty funny looking. Maybe you could re-arch your leaf springs that way??

 

Pretty crusty, and like I said they spin right round baby right round. Something in there is whasted because there is no stop.
Got the numbers though

Sides are all the same, original Snugtop and the rear is Bauer. I'll start the lubrication regimen and see what happens.

 

Pop that sucker off and leave it in a container filled with muriatic acid overnight. It'll be rust free the next day. Just make sure you use a container that won't melt/corrode. A cut off plastic milk jug works for me.

 

Like a record, baby?

 

Eh, they get plenty of love from the normies around south TX. My buddy had em on his Ford, my T3 came with em, but I removed and gave em to Casey. I see people on the FB group with em somewhat often. They are great if you do a lot of towing and hauling. But I suspect not many with our trucks do. They aren't ideal for rock crawling.

 

But they can do this

 

Hell, knock the fluff off and paint it in naval jelly for 20-30 minutes, it'll be silver as a nickel.

 

Well, speaking of rust, looks like someone's gonna get boned. Someone who doesn't know better, at least.

Nowhere in the ad does it say anything about rust, but clearly the frame cracked or is open at the upturn below the brake MC, as we've seen so many times. Feel bad for the poor sucker who buys this if they're not aware, and it's lame af the seller doesn't say squat about the fact the frame has been mended and has obvious rust-out issues. Charlotte NC isn't even a 'rust belt' area really, so I'm assuming it came from farther north. I've seen VA/W.VA trucks with less rust.

Paint is fresh as hell on that patch, you know damn well the "private seller" is aware of the problem. I should flag it for the sake of saving someone's ass.

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/ctd/d/charlotte-2005-toyota-tundra/7808428889.html

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Got my transmission all put back together yesterday. The sealant needs to dry for 16 hours so I'll be refilling the lost transmission fluid sometime this afternoon after my last exam(thank god). Replaced the TCC Solenoid and transmission filter after FedEx finally delivered me my goods. Only dilemma moving forward is I have no clue how much fluid has drained from my pan as I've taken it off like 4 different times and had it drain a little more here and there after the initial drain. Oh well... guess I'll fill it up till it hits the cold level on the stick then test shifting through P>>>L, drive around town to warm up the fluid, and recheck from there. Hoping the damn CEL stays off.

 

No pics of disassembly and reassembly?

 

I’ve never found naval jelly to work as well as muriatic acid. Only downside with acid is you need it fully submerged. #VatOfAcidBro