1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I have, my TB is always nice and cool after I turn the truck off, but some of the hoses are a pain to get to and tighten properly for the bypass

The actual passage thru the TB is very small and short; basically a 90 in and out, that’s it. You can see the entire passage with the TB in hand

 

Windoors, four locks.
Thanks for those links man.
Is yours a SnugTop?

 

May not matter, a lot of these companies are using generic hardware and parts. A lot of the designs are actually built around the (door/window/glass/hardware) parts which were commonly available on the market when creating the initial fiberglass designs.

 

So your truck is a rocket now?!?

 

Leer

so yeah, first 3 links then struts for the rear glass which I can dig up for you. At least I think I linked the windoor struts. The suspa part number should help, accessible from the old strut if not illegible.

 

Is that a plastic manifold thing?

 

I did some shenanigans with mine because my windoor T handles had longer shafts. So I swapped the old shafts in to the new set. Probably possible to source new long shafts. Yours look pretty rusted. I like the double sided key and the new long shaft T500 handles are single sided keys plus I wanted one key for all 6 not two different keys.
The magic washer is clutch. Otherwise the L and R open the same, opposite makes more sense.

 

I was looking at it last time I was in there. On our later-year trucks, just a small extension nipple with a bulbout at the end that's bronzey/gold in color, ya? If it's like others, you can yoink the nipple out for a cleaner/more natural appearance.

 

did you warm up the tires first? Cold rubberband tires wont grab regardless of how locked the diff is.

 

Ok, got curious and went back to my LS swap thread on the C10 from almost 20 years ago to find TB bypass pics on the LS/GenIII. Pics are so damn small there (thanks, early 2000s internet!) so you can't really tell, but bigger pics below ... but basically drill, tap, then re-route. Also, super high-tech heater core bypass, we don't need no stinkin' heat!

More work on the LS though, unless you use the (less clean looking) shortcut off the radiator line with a Mishimoto fitting and aftermarket barb (I think Russell is what most folks run with). And yes, I vacuumed my shit excessively during/after, and deburred my holes.

tl;dr - We're lucky the 2UZ is easier.

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I did it on my SHOs. Just used a hose coupling underneath and blocked off the TB holes with rubber nipples. I'll get around to it on the truck eventually. Makes it easier to pull the TB off too without spilling coolant anywhere. I'd recommend it for anyone where it doesn't get too too cold. Plus like Shifty said, the TB gets heat soaked well enough, especially those of us with pre 05s.

 

I'm wondering how that thing works now. I was thinking about doing front and rear Truetracs just to see what it'd do. Are they more suited to the limited traction of dirt/mud/snow? Maybe they don't like the traction pavement gives.

 

They're dragstrip stuff, And wont work in mud. According to the internet. But the LC guys on ih8mud seem to like em. The little bit i could find about powersliding with em, says they dont like the side to side weight transfer while drifting but the drift guys use spools. The roadcourse guys seem to like the traction.

 

Chemistry is underrated.

 

just a little 2amp.

 

Here’s why I prefer acid to electrolysis….

https://youtu.be/fC9JC8dyZp8?feature=shared

 

WRT a recent posting of mine re: SPC ubj p/n 25001. If you are able to score a pair, such as I did, per SPC tech-support, they can be converted to greaseable w/p/n25477.

 

I drove on 35 for 15 miles before the two pulls.

 

I don't recommend for off-road because one tire in the air dissables the unit unless you use the parking brake. I also don't recommend for race trucks, afforementioned.

I'm sure it's great for normies and towing/hauling on pavement though.

But hottboi gotta hottboi...

 

sounds like it's time for some wider, stickier rubber.

 

Lockers are just too damn expensive. I can't drop $2800 for lockers, + gears, + rebuild kit, + labor. I think it was close to $8k total.

Edit: I just checked. $2200 for the rear diff, $2300 for the front diff. That's rebuilt diffs from ECGS with me sending in my diffs so no core charge. I need it, but that's still pretty damn expensive.

 

Yeah they will change which wheel they lock mid drift and you'll lose control, ask me how I know...

Think in a year or so I'll regear it again to 4.30 and go with Eaton Positrac.
The only reason I picked TrueTrac was the positive reviews from truck guys and the zero maintenance.

So someone down the road will likely be happy with my current set up. It's great from a roll in a straight line, that's it.

 

That's next. I just need to order the gaskets and get with @txagg one of these days. He already grabbed me the manifold. Not sure if I'll need anything else though.
I'll do the bypass at the same time.

 

Just do an e-locker on the rear and regear both.
If you really want something for the front, maybe TrueTrac or posi

 

like a dragstrip rocketship?

 

More like a mistress of the dark

 

I got into a situation while by myself at Merus that a front locker would've been really handy. A rear locker wouldn't have helped. I'm doing none, or both. No half measures.

 

Thx for this, I'm updating my previous reply with this info and tagging you on it.

 

no doubt acid will work excellent to remove rust. Also no doubt that this, and most all other how-to “informative” youtoob videos are skewed to generate “likes”. It almost as if the person who made the video went out of their way to have poor results.

 

And in looking back on my reply: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wtf-spc-dual-balljoint-failure-15k-miles.145830/#post-3776282

It would appear the middle one ("discontinued") of those UBJ has the provision in the top for fitting a zerk, and it's even threaded. But the latest style (black body) has no zerk fitting. So I'm not 100% sure which part number they're saying can be converted. 25001 has a zerk. The other one (no part number) with grey body has a zerk provision. The black body one 35109 has no zerk provision. Do you need to drill the top of it and tap it for the zerk?