1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

if it was used as a generator, what kinda kw could it push?

 

Im the wrong kinda sparky for that

rated for 40v 200 amps 60% duty cycle.

Oh and its DC Constant current only

 

Internet calculator says thats 8kw.

I just want my home generator to be louder than my neighbors.

https://www.mylittlesalesman.com/detroit-diesel-3-71-engine-runs-strong-video-371-gm-12529404

i’ll teach em a little something about disturbing the peace.

 

Hey, i wasnt paying attention a few days ago when a discussion about lugnuts came up, what are the lugs for aluminum wheels called? And do the steelies call for conical or the rounded ones? My stockers seem to snug up fine, but that might be because of the paint. & the washers would rattle.


i think i’d like my patricks powdercoated white. It’d give me an excuse to wash my truck more often.

Still need to find the right grey or black for my offroad shoes.


Verified with an unpainted wheel that the cone on the stock lugs seat right.

 

After procrastinating for 13 months(@KNABORES would be proud), I'm finally starting on the front end suspension rebuild for Ravioli. New LCA's, LBJ' and outer tie rods. 161k miles. I have to lower the subframe to remove the control arms. Should be fun.

 

May the mangling gods be with you

 

See this? It's your dipstick housing going into the pan.

See all that oil on it, and how the oil is pretty much saturating it? Your valve cover gaskets are likely leaking at the front corner, exactly where mine were, at the front corner of the cam tower, and the oil is dripping down the oil dipstick mount, is clearly boating the top of the oil pain, and it looks like it's running down the lip. If you have that much leakage at the front of the valve covers, I can almost guarantee you have it leaking from the rears similarly. See here and note the oil coming from the front corner bolt of my valve cover, and all the oil built up on the arm of the dipstick support, and see here along the valve cover/manifold heat flange where oil was puddling when I did nothing about it.

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Also notice here, way higher up, you clearly have oil coming from above, you can see the residue in the circle, I'd be looking higher up on the block from this point to see the origin:

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My suspicion is, you're leaking at the half-moon plugs which live on the back of the head here and pull up/out, they get pulled, cleaned, and resealed with FIPG any time you do valve cover gaskets. You can probably check this easily with a mirror, or with your phone in selfie mode, look for oil dripping on the back of the driver's side head, then running down the block to wick/soak everything below. Oil does travel in metal, via capillary action.

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Thanks as always! I am going to borrow my dad's endoscope to do some real digging once I get it from him.

Hoping it's just the items that you said. What difficulty level is the head gasket replacement?

 

@Dakillacore here's another really bad example where someone let their VC gaskets go way too long: https://www.tundras.com/threads/recent-owner-questions.130108/#post-3315260

Not head gasket. Valve cover gasket. It's not bad. Took me about 90 minutes. Again, extending a branch here, if we can sync up on a day, I'm happy to help.

 

Yeah, sorry I meant valve cover gasket. Not sure where that slipped into my mind.

And absolutely, man. Anytime you have the free time we can link up. I'm off some days during the week so we can plan a time then. We have a rotating 4 day work week at my place now. I'll compensate you for your time and experience you just name the price! I'll work around your time.

I can get the materials kit ahead of time to be ready.

 

low ball him. He’s worth so much, mere mortals arent worth the effort.

 

It's virtually impossible to pop off the dustcaps without denting them to some degree. They're on there good & tight. Work around the clock, 3/6/9/12 and tap to lift the cap away from the hub. When you got a 3-4mm gap, screwdriver in there and twist at 3/6/9/12.

On torque for CV nut, max it out, check the cotter position, then bump it forward at least one more cotter position, or two if it's easy enough.

On the bolts and misc, pulling from my coilover install pics here on the forum:

I remember distinctly being here, ready to pop the rotor off, and install my new coilover, before popping off the UCA and pressing out the UBJ: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/upload_2023-9-2_14-42-31-png.912110/

FU UBJ! So easy to pop them free with the knuckle on your floor https://tnstatic.net/attachments/upload_2023-9-2_18-29-24-png.912224/

Proof it's easier to install the lower shock bolt (and strut/coilover totally) with the knuckle out, no CV axle in the way, and the swaybar disco'd: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/img_9049-jpg.912377/

 

This is the good stuff

 

I might have to sign into an indentured servitude contract with him. We'll see

 

Doubt he’s looking for first borns, but maybe offer an arm or a leg.

 

These bushings don't look as bad as I thought. I'm putting Toyota arms back in.

 

I mean, they weren’t more than a couple years from being trashed either! Good on ya for the proactive action.

 

It does look more like the valve cover gasket the deeper I inspect. This is the driver side.

 

Awesome, thanks for the info and pics!

 

Best tool I’ve found is a wood chisel about 1 inch wide. Carefully tap the sharp edge bevel forward around the perimeter between the lip and hub. Don’t use your high quality woodworking tools however. Get a cheap wood chisel for this.

on my 68 Porsche I put a large hose clamp around the cap and then pull on that with a pair of channel locks.

 

I mean if they're free range and on your property, build em a lay box, with a roof, and see if they leave you any presents. Possession Is 9/10th of the law.

I need to clean my trucks naughty bits. Been putting it off for weeks. Typically really.

 

Is that why you want a diesel?

 

+1. This ^^^

 

Firing a pot of year end chili up just how my homeboys in Texas LOVE IT. Tons of beans, no meat, and a heaping glob of chile in adobo.

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What's the saying? Something about engineers, mechanics and virgins?

I'm almost done but it's impossible to get a socket on this LCA bolt. Transmission pan is in the way. Best I can do is a box end wrench. I'm supposed to be torquing this bastard to 172. That ain't happening.

My only other option would be to lower the subframe again, torque it, then put it back. That was a giant hassle earlier.

Would you guys go as hard as I can with the wrench and send it?

 

Wobble/u joint extension? Good n tite if you can’t

 

So you're making bean soup...

 

Yes.

Hold that wrench on good n tight. Put a jack under the other end and crank it.