Please help with this

My 2002 sr5 4.7 access cab 4x4 is driving me insane. Soon as I fix something then something else will go wrong. About 2 weeks ago my truck started giving me symptoms like bad coil. I thought it would have been water in my fuel tank because that happened about six months ago where I jumped fuel pump to drain tank and gave the truck a throttle body cleaning and oil change and cleaned plugs. Truck was running better than ever until about two weeks ago, so I dropped gas tank and cleaned inside and addressed fuel pump gasket, which was rotted and new fuel filter. Then proceeded with brand new coils and plugs. I should’ve stopped there, but because of my fuel trims being around +30 I made the decision that I had an intake gasket leak and went ahead and replaced lower and upper and all seals on my Injectors.When I went to start the truck there was a surging idle and no response to throttle. After three stressful days of troubleshooting and learning about my throttle body decided on the TPS sensor on driver side which fixed the response problem. Then I had the bright idea of cleaning my cone Filter and cleaning my MAF sensor Which brings me to the current issue of a loud chirping sound that sounds like it’s coming from the firewall area near intake or exhaust manifold but when I say loud, I mean loud and it’s cyclic or intermittent but as soon as I start It. It still has surging idle because I Can’t leave the truck running long enough to relearn because it sounds like it’s doing damage.

 

I will try to post a video so you guys can hear it

 

It would help if you did a scan and let us know if you have any codes.

Can’t think of anything on the firewall that would cause chirping off the top of my head. Serpentine pulley, totally.

 

Last codes to show up were p0300 random multiple misfire and then p0301-308.

not sure on how to post a video but trying to get it figured out

 

May be worthwhile to isolate shit.

If the noise is rhythmic, try taking the serpentine belt off. Then start the engine. It’s fine to run without serp belt for a few minutes.

If noise goes away, you know the source. Likely a pulley. Spin all the pulleys to find the guilty SOB.

There’s a TSB for cold-start squealing FYI. It’s in the megathread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Search that thread, 1st page, for the word SQUEAL and you’ll get the link to Toyota’s document on it.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/YMOBXCRb4X8?si=-JmIj_lvcxbNWua2

 

Wondering if it could be the starter but to me it sounds like intake or exhaust

 

What brand coils did you use?

these trucks hate aftermarket electronic if you didn’t go oem or Denso you might have some issues with the coils after a few thousand miles. I learned the hard way.

Also try taking the belt off and turning the engine on.

 

Sounds like a massive intake leak.

 

Always use OEM intake gaskets. If you must go aftermarket, only FELPRO.

 

Yeah, the idle surging, the sound of sucking, knowing the engine is one big air pump essentially (with controlled explosions inside), sounds like you fucked up on the intake gasket.

Tell us more about the gasket install. Two things: it’s easy to install them backwards and we have one guy on here who had to install 3x because he had aftermarket (2 different common brands( fail on him. Nobody has ever had an issue with OEM, other than installing them backwards with the tabs aligned wrong.

 

Something is not sealed right causing a whacky vaccuum issue.

 

Dayum that's crazy. I think the guys are right, check those intake gaskets.

 

my durashit coilpacks are going on a year now lol

 

Going on 3.5 years... I don't even remember the brand
Lol

 

Following up to my own post with info from @bfunke on the intake gasket orientation. I don't know about the upper gaskets (you said you did upper & lower), but the lowers must be installed in a specific fashion, which isn't abundantly clear at first glance:

 

Thanks everyone for your responses. I may have found the leak or void I should say

 

Don't leave us in suspense!

 

My Duralast coils give up after 9.5k miles. Switch to denso 50k miles later no problems.

 

Sounded more like a void than a leak

 

There's only one way to install the upper.

 

cali problems.

 

You say that, but you've also never seen some of the shit I've done after a few beers.

I had to make a new rule for myself 20 years ago. No beers until the work is done. After beers/booze, shifty isn't allowed to touch the tools.

 

So all major gaskets passed the smoke test. Only two small leaks maf gasket and another line running from intake tube to passenger valve cover, which both were addressed. Also the felpro gaskets I bought on the bottom side were only one layer unlike the triple layer that was removed?

Now, could anybody tell me why my oil temperature light came on when I was trying to reset the idle Which was staying around 1700 in drive. So I shut her down and gonna have lunch.

p.s. it’s always good To have the garage organized, especially all spark plugs should be accounted for and not mixed up with the old plugs.

 

Oil temp light? Sure it’s not pressure - danger Will Robinson!

 

It says at oil temp. And the idle reset doesn’t seem to be working it’s stuck at 1800. Wondering if I need to adjust tps?

I think it’s auto trans temp light?

Faaack! Dis truck I tell you and that’s why I love my Tacoma more always have and always will.

 

is the truck still making that terrible noise?

 

Does it have oil?