Extremely Cheap! 5.29 gears. Motive gears OK?

Haha. The biggest worry was hoping not to crack the front case when installing the pinion race. I froze it an got it in immediately.
If I were in the area I'd help for sure. Not sure when l be down south.

 

Have an appointment scheduled at my buddy's shop to start installing gears and limited slip on Thursday. 4.88's and I'm thinking the Speedmaster.

 

I’ll be putting in my speedmaster next weekend.

 

FYI, if you are looking for non-LS additive gear oil, Summit has Mobil Delvac 1 synthetic 75w90 for $39.99 a gallon. I pulled some info from this thread about non-LS fluids as they are becoming difficult to find:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/gea...c-helix-torsen-grip-pro-differentials.101244/

I'm also told that High Performance Lubricants will blend a non-LS Differential Life fluid if you email and ask them to. That stuff is pretty spendy and I'm not sure their forum discount will apply to custom orders. Though, my local WallyWorld was selling Valvline 75w90 for $18 a quart and I think it's still cheaper than Royal Purple off the shelf, so maybe HPL isn't a bad way to go. I purchased some M1 Delvac for break-in at least.

Edit: Apparently Delvac 75w90 is trending as the price increased to $40.79 a gallon. Haha.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mob-122035-1

 

Been over a year since I bought it but finally installing my grip pro!

 

So my front passenger inner cv boot has a 1/8 inch tear by the hub clamp. Must of been a bit rough with it while trying to get in when I did the front gears. Guess I was doing well with 17 years and no tears. Ordered up 2 boot kits in case. I cleaned it and temporarily gobbed it up with some fipg to try to seal it until the boot kit arrives.

 

Which boot kits did you go with? I ordered some from Wheelers just in case that happens.

 

OEM boots ftw

 

I went with oem kit. Found them for $38 down in OR. I thought of the cvj or Porsche ones but went with oem.
The Wheelers boots are neoprene so should be good. Also Amazon has the Toyota style boot clamp tool for $19.

 

I have this weird issue ever since install, truck keeps going sideways every time I accelerate
Sure is a blast in these Manitoba winters! Been too long since having a truck without a traction device!

 

Yukon front master install kit is on backorder and apparently Yukon doesn’t know when it’ll be back in stock.

 

One left G2 kit...uses Timken bearings.
https://www.summitracing.com/search...ct-line/g2-axle-gear-master-installation-kits

Also DRK380MK is a Timken front bearing install kit.
G2 35-2062
Yukon T9R-MIK
Revolution 35-2059

You can order the carrier bearing and pinion head bearing at Amamaya for $120 shipped. Get the tail bearing for $65 local and seals.
Uses sk13 shims for carrier, ditch the pinion head race shim and use sk23 behind pinion head bearing. Also grab a pinion nut and crush sleeve. I pieced together my front kit for about $245.

 

I ended up with a front 5.29 gear set I am not going to use. After much contemplation I am just not going to go to the trouble to install these gears. If someone wants to make a deal, trade for parts, etc on a front gear set let me know. The rear looks like it is still on sale, but the front is up to $333 on Amazon.

 

Well, my buddy talked me out of re-gearing the truck.. for now.. Not that I don't trust the opinion of the masses, but I trust three generations of drivetrains specialists maybe a scoche more. Haha. But we are still installing the Speedmaster.

I know, I know... bring on the booing and hissing from the crowd...

 

What was the reasoning?

 

He asked if I had any issues pulling my trailers with the current setup. I realistically do not, and after installing the Whipple last year, I often pull enclosed trailers in 5th gear at 65 or 70 MPH with the converter locked. He asked if the transmission hunted gears a lot, or shifted down several gears when pulling hills. I replied that it really doesn't; 4th gear and 4 psi is plenty for pulling most any 10% grade that I frequent. He asked if I liked the mileage I was getting or wanted to get worse mileage being on a basically stock size tire.. I got his point. He suggested the as a performance upgrade, it would be worthwhile, but knowing how much I drive the truck in a year, he suggested I refrain, even with the amount of towing and hauling I do.

I was basically standing there with cash in hand for him to re gear, and he suggested I put the money back in my pocket. So I took his advice and did.

I'll either dump the gears, or install them when I transition to a newer daily work truck.

I'm not suggesting it's a poor upgrade and you guys are foolish for making the jump, but maybe it's better to stick with a stock gear for my use case.

 

I would definitely not regear if on stock size tires.

I want to recapture stock (or close to stock) performance with 35s and leave myself open to 37s.

I will get my truck tuned for the new gears as well.

 

Update on the Motives, specifically the rear. After putting on 278 light miles last night had a extremely loud whine and whirl on decel from 60 to 50mph. Before this no whine at all. Called the professional shop i had install the gears and lsd to let them know. They went on a ride with me and agreed something was fubared. They pulled the diff cover and found a defect on the coast side of the gear. Reached out to Motive they are sending another rear set.

 

Glad they are helping you out. It stinks but it does happen. Nice to have a good shop too!

 

Just a little odd it took 200 miles to uncover the defect. It is what it is and the lsd at least kicks ass

 

Good to hear. My whine started after 500 miles but I was still probably a tad deep...

 

That's the rub - 5.29's on 35's is equivalent to 4.88's on a stock tire... So would 4.88's on stock tires be worth it??

Pulled the diff today but got stalled by bearing availability. Should have ordered them beforehand, but I always get the wrong part, so I let my buddy chase them down. Here's what 218k miles looks like on a stock set of gears with an Auburn in it for 140k miles. I'm pleasantly surprised. I guess changing fluid every 30k miles is paying off.

 

Yes and no. They are equivalent in rpm but not power feel if that makes sense. The 5.29s are to offset the extra height and weight from the 35s in hopes of giving stock like performance or a touch better. Where the stock tires dont need that.
I think 4.88s would only benefit if running 33s, especially 10 plys.
Stock size P series tires don't need gears in my opinion.

 

Who said anything about p rated tires...

I understand the internet logic, but that's kinda my point. I currently have 32.6" tall tires that are LT rated - 34% heavier than stock with a much deeper tread and thicker carcass, placing much of that additional weight on the outer edge of the tire (just as larger, heavier tires would). I mean, they aren't Falken-tire-heavy, but a good 14 lbs heavier than stock. Contrast to heavier rims, for example, that place that extra rotational weight closer to the hub. General forum consensus is that 4.88's are useless and 5.29's are the only way to go. But most 35's aren't actually 35's, and if the point is make up for lost power from rotational mass instead of just mechanical (dis)advantage from a taller tire, then it's doesn't really make sense to discount 4.88's; the same logic applied to 5.29's says that if you run an LT tire, you absolutely need to run 4.88's due to rotational mass. And, yes, I understand angular momentum and how that increases with larger tires and heavier weight placed on the circumference.

I'm really not arguing for or against 4.88's with stock tires, just poking holes in the gearing arguments. Rules of thumb and group think vs maths...

 

Oh I agree with all that. I thought you meant you were running stock tires. In my opinion 4.88s would be perfect for your tires then. I'm running 33.5" tall LTs right now and I'd love 4.88s. I wouldn't want 5.29s in my case, I think it would be unnecessary revs. Unless I planned on going 35s in the future then yes. But I'm going the cheaper route and going back to stock size tires, no re gear needed lol

 

Found an SKF part number for the carrier side bearings. Shops apparently had a hard time referencing the Toyota part number and Zuk has the right part number listed in the wrong place for the 10.5. The bearing isn’t an off the shelf part and is custom for Toyota.

 

Yup. Had no luck cross referencing...
I was surprised my BCA bearing kit by NTN for the rear had koyo pinion bearings and skf carrier bearings.

 

No pictures of the install for the speedmaster lsd but went smooth, took a total of 5 hours from on the lift to off. Reusing the old bearings made putting it back to how it came out.

Initial impressions are short as my buddies house is close but it will definitely send you sideways if you’re not ready for it.

 

Nicely done!

 

Sideways, but in a beautifully controlled manner, no?