Lower ball joints/part numbers

So many ball joints, so little time...

 

Ourisman, not Serratoyota. I just reply to the most recent "order confirmation" email and change the subject to "RFQ"

 

What's the build date on your truck? Cutoff should have been Sept 03 for old style.

 

They’re charging higher than MSRP because it’s Alaska and they can. There’s 1 dealership with 6 hours of me and that’s if the weather hasn’t closed any of the roads. And shipping up here is hit or miss - sometimes it’s a very reasonable $20-50. And sometimes you get quoted $200+ for what seems like no reason. A lot of places free shipping is to the lower 48 only (A+ for Serra including Alaska) and people will and do pay a premium for parts up here.

 

Just for shits and giggles, humor me for a sec.

Click this link to hit the national Toyota parts site for a random part.

Ignore what the part is, it's the TRD badge I used for my recent grille overhaul, we're not interested in that. What I want to know is this. When you load that page, at the national site, do you see your local dealership in the "shop this dealer" list? If yes, you can usually order online at MSRP or cheaper (click "Shop This Dealer" and compare the price to the MSRP shown to see if there's a discount), then go pick it up in person if you want to drive 6hrs, or potentially have them ship to you, sometimes the free shipping code, FREESHIP, works on orders placed thru the national site. EVEN IF they are asking MSRP, with the 25% off at that national parts site, it should be markedly cheaper than what you quoted, but the discounts don't apply until you hit the checkout page (you can see them before you actually hand over any cash).

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Thanks for the info, that’s actually super helpful and something I’ll probably use when I’m in the lower 48. Unfortunately the closest participating dealer is Juneau which is over 600mi as the crow flies. But because Juneau isn’t on the road system it’s an almost 24 hour drive including a trip through Canada and a ferry.

 

Who's bright idea was it to make the state's capital in a town that isn't accessible from the rest of the state without a boat or plane? (Maybe so that lawmakers need not do too much? )

 

Yeah, that's not good. But I will say, if they're offering a pretty decent discount on parts, and you need somewhere closer, ordering online thru them may be a wise choice versus the dealer you were talking to.

However if Serra of Birmingham will ship to you, free, and no tax, and with the 25% off sale going on right now, with their already substantial parts discount ... I mean ... you know where to go. https://autoparts.serratoyota.com

Just don't use their sister dealership, Serra of Decatur, which is a bit south.

 

I still wonder why Juneau is the capital all the time. Doubtless I could google it and I’m sure there’s a reason but when most of the state isn’t on the road system guess it doesn’t matter.

What kills me is that I’d say by where I am 60-70% of the cars on the road are Toyota. Lots of 4Runners and Tacomas and Tundras. Even see the occasional Sienna and Sequoia. They’re great cars for AK. But there’s only 2 dealerships in the state on the road system so parts sourcing is tough.

 

I did this and got a response a few days later confirming part numbers. About to order now.

 

Hi everyone, this is my first post here, and I'm so glad to see that this forum is so active. I recently came into possession of an 06 DC 2WD with the 4.7L V8. I bought a couple of tires the other day and the tire shop said my lower ball joints and tie rod ends need replacing. When I clicked on these links it said they may not fit your vehicle, and I imagine that's because the vehicle from the quoted Post was 4wd? I would really like to take advantage of this sale and get the parts now, I don't mind doing the work myself.

When I search for parts for my truck it gives me the lower ball joint without the steering knuckle and I'm not sure if that's correct or if I need the steering knuckle or what. Because the parts linked above included the steering knuckle with the ball joint assembly and I don't know if that's necessary or not or how to tell. Thank you in advance you guys seem so helpful on this site I'm really glad I found it.

 

Welcome! And enjoy !

 

I just placed my order with Serra Toyota Birmingham. I emailed mbuckner@serraToyota.com to confirm fit because the site was not confirming correctly. Send them the part numbers you think are correct and your vin. He responded to me after a few days. I am a little confused that he said the bolts for the ball joints were 90105-A0187 and when you pull them up on the site they are for the driveshaft/u joint area, but I just ordered them anyway. I figure they should know what they’re talking about. If they look wrong, I’ll just use my old bolts, since they still look ok.

 

Order everything in my list. It's the correct stuff to buy for your truck. For your 2006 Tundra, here's your left, right, and get 8 of these bolts to go with it.

I highly doubt the LBJ and the OTR are both bad, but replace the LBJ because catastrophic shit happens when they fail, specifically. Change with OEM and fresh bolts every 100-125k miles.

 

Hey Shifty could you please verify this order for me? I used the toyota.usa.epc.data site you recommended and the autoparts.toyota (Great sale now but ends tonight) 2003 AC 4x4 Tundra 4.7L prod date 6/03 (UCK40L-ASSSKA)
Figured I might as well do these since I have everything off for my 6112 install (which you helped guide me) as the vehicle has 300k miles (240k on ssc 50J replacement)

Cotter Pin x 2
95381-03225

Lock Nut x 2 *for sway bar*
94184-01041

Castle Nut x 2
90171-14042

Bolt with Washer x 8
90119-10933

Lower Ball Joint Dust Cover Protector x 2
43346-60011

Lower Ball Joint Assembly Left Hand with Knuckle Arm x 1
43340-39485

Lower Ball Joint Assembly Right Hand with Knuckle Arm x 1
43330-39605

I have read over 100 pages of forums haha and I'm spinning a bit. I seem to remember you saying the OEM LBJ would include the castle nut and cotter pin and main dust cover (#43346-34010) but not the outer dust protector (#43346-60011)? But you may have just been talking about the ones for a 2005/2006 OEM LBJ. Mine has the 14mm bolts and from looking at that bolt page you recommended I believe these are the right ones above.

Shifty I Just want to say I appreciate everything you do on this forum. It has been a huge blessing. I have learned so much. Grew up working on dirtbikes and tractors and have no auto mechanic skills. Thanks to everyones help on this forum I have replaced timing belt, waterpump, alternator, power steering pump, thermostat, all the hoses, fan clutch, serp belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner, radiator, complete A/C system, brakes, plugs, suspension etc. Next on the list is all the old vacuum hoses & small hoses, windshield wiper fluid hoses and clips, fuel pump, starter, radio, changing diff and tranny fluids, repair axle boots etc. Thanks again everyone this forum has been a tremendous help!!

 

Do me a favor, check and see what the current head is on your balljoints. Is it 14mm, 17mm or ??

And it's not just me, there's a solid core group of a couple dozen folks that really make this place an invaluable resource on the internet. But more than that, hundreds of folks who've made it a legitimate community.

 

Yes 14mm. Absolutely I agree thats why I made sure to thank everyone here too!
Replied after but didn't quote you so not sure if you got it so I resubmitted with quote. Thanks

Update : I didn't hear back from you and didn't want to miss out on the sale ending last night so I went ahead and ordered. If not correct please let me know so I can call them and change the order before it ships out. Thanks again!

 

I don't want to detract from the main theme of this thread, but as someone who has also replaced most of the 23+ y.o. vacuum lines recently, be prepared to source some of them from sources other than Toyota. Some of them have been discontinued/NLA, and the one's that are available are pricey. I bought all I could at a premium knowing they lasted this long, the rest I'll wing-it on.

 

Is there a thread you recommend you could link me to help guide me on this process. Thanks!

 

No, unfortunately. I just went in to the dealership I deal with frequently, and is good to me due to the $ I spend (lol), with an image of the engine bay and said "I want this, and this, and this" and went from there.

 

why does the right side cost much more than the left side on Toyota Parts website? Left - $75 Right - $142

Also, the RH part number given to me for my VIN does not include the 2005 model. Only 2006-2007 models according the website

 

what year is your truck?

 

2005
RH part number given to me by parts dept was 43330-39825

 

Buy a recall kit, you can read thru this thread and get more info (page 9 has a ton of photos). Kit comes with two ball joints R & L and 4 cotter pins from Ourisman Toyota. Also buy new bolts

• Recall kit set - New OEM Lower Ball Joints - 04006-62134 - $183
• LBJ Bolts - 90105-12316 - 8
  
  https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao...tCFD4_tvYceGwwbAV4gFWy21iko9Eghf3iE1dX3dzGeWX

 

cool thanks. Since the recall kit does not come with hardware, it's ok to re-use the castle bolt and will I have to transfer the original dust cover along with? I will get the new bolts for sure regardless of which LBJs i get.

 

Should come with rubbers if I remember what others said on here. As long as you don't do something stupid like hammer on the crown end of the castle nut to break the UBJ free, you should be able to re-use. If you need to hammer on it, thread the castle nut on upside down until its 2-3mm off the UCA and hammer away. I'd use fresh cotters though.

 

Are you referring to the uppers? I was talking about the lowers, and reusing parts from that.

 

I'm having an brain fart right now, sorry. Yes, my bad.

 

all good, just had make sure what size boulder of salt i was needing