One thing after another

Don't have to describe to you what it took to get that 120 Amp fuse out but considering what one does have to do, there's a possibility, even if a very slight possibility issues are there.

As far as "What fuses/relays in the engine fuse panel that might control my issues"....replacement of 120 A fuse might have nothing to do with door and Radio issue but....

For your 2000 AC, 120 A feeds 40 A AM1 fuse which goes to Ignition Switch AM1 position. With key in ACC, it feeds the 15 A ACC fuse which affects a number of things including door chime and is an ACC input to Integration Control & Panel which then feeds to ACC input of radio.

Which is why folks have been reminded that the Integration Control connectors have to be connected for radio to work.

The radio memory is held in place by the 15A Dome fuse in engine bay applied to the B input of radio.



BTW....at what point in time was this 120A fuse replaced during this fiasco ?

 

THIS IS INTERESTING!

I START THE TRUCK, REVERSE, NEUTRAL, AND WHEN I PUT IT IN DRIVE IT DIES. NOW IF I ENGAGE THE PARKING BRAKE I CAN GO INTO REVERSE, NEUTRAL AND DRIVE. I CAN EVEN PUSH THE ACCELERATOR AND MOVE FORWARD. Soon as I disengage the parking brake it dies. No codes still. Truck is at running temp

 

With the parking brake engaged one click triggering the dash light warning, are you able to drive the truck normally?

 

No the brake has to be fully engaged for it to drive.

 

That makes zero sense. Of course none of it really makes sense at this point. I know you’ve checked everything multiple times, but something you recently did is what’s creating this issue. You did a bunch of new electrical stuff, it’s starting to sound a lot like that is a contributing factor with all these wonky electrical symptoms

 

I disconnected all accessories. Amps, lights, wench. The truck just does not want to stay in drive without the parking brake engaged.

 

Sounds like you've got it isolated.
Maybe disconnect the parking brake cable at the foot pedal/apply the brake/see if you can drive it normally. If so whatever that under dash pedal is moving/touching would be worth investigating. If it doesn't produce the same result ide be examining ALL of the cable and what it rubs/touches/moves, all the way to the back.
Considering all the work you did in there it might be right there at the parking brake pedal.
(Just thinking out loud)

 

Could this be a bad brake booster causing an extremely bad vacuum leak only when the brakes are depressed?

 

It’s the parking brake that he’s referring to. It does not engage the booster, so I would say booster vacuum is not the issue.

 

He says when applying the parking brake it will go into Drive and run. Any other time putting it in Drive it dies. I assume when he is putting it in Drive with no parking brake engaged and it dies, that he is pushing down the brake pedal which could be creating a vacuum leak. Maybe it's a long shot but I've heard of bad boosters causing vacuum leaks.

 

You have to push the brake to shift out of park every time. So I don’t think adding parking brake removes that variable

 

I suppose it depends on his sequence, which I don't know at the moment, of how he is shifting through gears. I feel like there aren't a tremendous amount of things to try at this point.

Maybe unhooking the booster and capping the line would be something simple to test (while remembering the brake pedal will be very heavy doing this).

 

I’m going to try to jack up the rear end to see if that might do anything

 

I'm no Toyota electrical expert, so take this with a grain of salt. Is your trucks lock-up torque convertor staying engaged? Or your trans isn't downshifting? Kind of like letting the clutch out( with a maunual trans) in the wrong gear? By drepressing the praking brake your disengaging said trans component ? It's a thing on older GM cars...

 

I remember entertaining that thought (torque converter) with mine. Stall with brake on in Drive. /closed loop/no codes. Just like someone flipped a switch. Otherwise all normal. Would you be able to drive around in reverse if it was the converter though, as OP has described?

 

This is in neutral!






this is with the parking brake engaged in drive

 

If you are in Drive with the parking brake engaged and you step on the main brake pedal does anything change just in regards to the way it is running not necessarily the live data?

 

No nothing changes. I can drive the truck around the block in reverse and it kind of sometimes acts like it wants to die but I lay off the gas and I’m good to go!

 

At this point, I'd be tempted to pay for 2-3 hours of dealership diagnostic time. I'm absolutely stumped.

 

Ugh that’s money I don’t have! I’m at my wits end

 

Don't know if those scan readings are after truck has ran awhile but that would give me heart burn.
Stat never opening or wrong Stat or ECT is lying to the ECU

 

It seems to idle high but I do have a new TB and a new MAF sensor. I’ve tested air leaks or vacuum leaks and I have none. That is after the truck has been idling for about 1hr

 

Throttle position at 15% idling? I might buy the ECT at 140 idling if it was a really cold day.

 

It was 8 degrees today

 

Any chance some part of the parking brake mechanism is contacting something it shouldn’t maybe under the dash, like some wiring or?

 

It’s free and clear. I’ve checked it several times

 

What about the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft sensor? Could those suddenly go bad?

 

Suddenly? Unlikely, but depending what you were doing, and the routing of the wires, either of those two could get their harnesses damaged. It's pretty easy to verify the cabling.

 

Cause the crankshaft position sensor is under the truck right?

 

The sensor is accessible from the bottom. But the wiring harness routing is shown here: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/20231215_141359-jpg.1023962/

Thanks to Brohon for showing that. The harness often gets misrouted during timing belt changes, it should live behind the fan clutch/AC brackets, as shown in that image.

If you need a visual cue, note the bulbous part of the timing belt cover in that pic, that's the bank 1 timing belt cover.

Also note all those pulleys, and imagine the peril that harness would be even from belt/pulley rub if it weren't tucked behind those brackets correctly.