Lightbar power source underhood for hybrid

I have the lightbar relay box currently tied into the constant 12v terminal in the passenger fuse box. I think this is the same wire/terminal connected to the "jump start" lug in this same fuse box (or it may even supply the entire fusebox). Presumably, this connects to the 12v of the battery under the backseat. I see no need to run an additional homerun power wire all the way to the battery if this one lands there anyway. @Baja Designs seems to agree and they list in their instructions to tie to this terminal for their lightbar. I trust them as a leading manufacturer in this realm and assume they did their homework, but everyone else in the aftermarket community says do NOT connect to this terminal and to run everything back to the battery. Now I'm paranoid. What say you guys?

 

I’m assuming there is an inline fuse for the red wire not pictured?

 

If BD instructions say to connect there, then do that.

 

Yes, there is a fuse on that red wire. But, I am replacing it all with a Garmin PowerSwitch and the power wire for it is around a 4ga. I believe and its inline fuse is 125A.

 

I wouldn’t do that. You’d be asking that one wire to now run your entire fuse panel and all your accessories through a switch pro style device?

 

I'm running one 80 watt LED lightbar that pulls max. 5.7A @ 14V. The question is....does it really supply that entire fuse panel? or does it just supply the jump start lug?

 

Then your wire size and fuse choice don’t make any practical sense.

 

It isn't *my* choice, Garmin supplies it like that to handle the max draw on their switch. I don't intend to use it to that potential.

 

I wouldnt run the full 125A on that lead, I would def run its own wire for that much draw. Now, 6A is no big deal...you can def run that off that lug.

 

You do you. Sounds like you know what you’re doing. I guess I just struggle with the idea of spending $400 on a switch to run one device.

 

that lil unit is pretty cool. app controlled lights for when u gotta light up a curb at starbucks real quick

 

I'm always of the firm belief that going straight to the battery is the safest thing, especially on a brand new vehicle. I recently brought my truck in for my first service (tire rotation) and to check why my HUD wasn't working. Turns out the HUD was a blown fuse. While talking with the master tech he noticed I had an 8 gang switch panel and asked how it was wired. I showed him that it was powered from the under seat battery (mines a hybrid) going to a bus bar to a dedicated fuse/relay panel. He told me that was the way to do it, keep it separate from the main wiring that way if something did go wrong with something else like my HUD they couldn't say it was because I jumped off the main harness somewhere. For the cost of running a 4 gauge wire to the engine bay from the backseat to a bus bar or dedicated fuse panel from Bluesea is cheaper than the diagnostic cost from Toyota.

 

but hes not tapping into anything...its literally a run straight to the battery . Even if that run does feed the fuse panel, hes not tapping into that. You guys act like 6A is gonna cause an issue...that shit will run off your cig port!

 

I get it. But the whole allure to me is NOT to have to run anything from backseat to underhood....hence the purchase of the $400 unit!

 

I don't want to pull the fuse box to look underneath to see what all that wire feeds, but I'd venture to think if Toyota allows you to jump start through it with all the amps that involves, I think it will handle this little 20" lightbar.

 

It’s not about the 6A - it’s about when he trades the truck in and the next guy assumes the device is properly wired when he loads it up to the full potential and burns the truck down.

 

Response to my inquiry with Baja Designs confirming their instructions to connect to that 12V terminal:

My engineering team has let me know there in no interference with the hybrid system, as well as the thousands of kits we have sold I've never ran into any issue as well.

Jd Frankovich | Retail Sales
Baja Designs | EXT 209 | San Marcos, CA 92069
Phone: 760-560-2252 | 2950 norman strasse rd | FAX: 760-560-0383

 

You need to ask Garmin not BD since you aren’t using the BD switch - harness.

 

FT, pull up the orange high voltage main and stick it on the back of the light bar

imagine how bright it will be

 

https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/GUID-B958A516-72E8-47CA-8793-6337D398EC08/EN-US/GUID-CBDBB56A-EE3C-4E77-A110-DEBDC21E24A8.html

Not surprising - Garmin instructions say directly to battery.

 

Just be aware. That post can become loose and shut down my truck for months.

 

Where is yours connected?

 

It was to the jumper post at the fuse box. I have no wired it back to my battery since then.

 

After all this doubt has been cast, I think I will just play it safe and install the Garmin at the battery under the seat and just run a single wire from it out to the lightbar. That shouldn't be too difficult.

 

It’s not hard. I would suggest it. Again my truck died on me twice was out for months and months, Toyota tried to bill me it. Luckily I had everything disconnected before it went in the second time.

 

I just wish somebody made a clean mounting solution for the PowerSwitch back there in the battery box.

 

I mean you could mount the power switch at the fuse box and just run the positive/negative to the battery

 

No, easier to run the one wire for the light and keep the device, positive, and negative leads near the battery.

 

Like this?

 

YES! Could I pay you to make me one to mount just a Powerswitch on?