Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Did some little stuff today. Removed the trans heating lines. Opened up a lot of room. Mounted my distro block for switched 12v and got that tied in. Moved the meth tank and lines and wires over to the passenger side. Tomorrow and this week the plan is to install the Rago plate and get the cables connected and hopefully finish the wiring and plumbing. Goal is to do the exhaust, turbo, and injectors this weekend and get it fully going.

 

Heck yeah, cranking!!

 

Trying to. Weather is supposed to start sucking tomorrow through Friday so I’m going to be limited on what I can do. Thankfully wiring can be done with the garage door closed but it’s still a pia.

 

Yeah, we got a bad storm, 4-6", then sleet on top, then pouring rain for an hour or 2 and then 15* as the storm pulled out and pulled the cold air in. Some of the back roads are still .25" thick ice!

 

That flash freeze was no joke. My circle is still ice skate ready. Glad it didn't accumulate on the trees and power lines like they were talking.

 

Yeah, we got lucky on the power-side of it, but our whole driveway and road is solid ice. Thick too!

 

Our weather is just drunk.

 

That's quite the swing... currently 4°F with -4°F windchill here right now, but going back up to mid 20's for highs in a couple days.

 

Yeah, that 54* day looks lovely. 70's and 80* would feel like a sauna after our consistent mid-20s to mid-30s winter we've been having. Acclimation is a thing, especially for husky guys. Much like the transmission warming puck on the 2019+ Tundra, we function better when temps are low.

 

Got my PML transmission pan yesterday. After having a brief moment of panic, good news for @TurboKits and anyone else who purchased the PML transmission pan.

Deep end of the PML pan is closest to the turbo crossover pipe. At 5.75"'ish deep, it wasn't likely to fit. However! The PML pan is only 3" deep at the face and has a 2.5" backwards slope as it drops the remaining 2.75" to full depth. So, it WILL clear the crossover pipe and the flex joint. It'll be close, so choose your heat shield of choice for that section of the crossover pipe, but the deeper pan will physically fit. That's based on actual measurements, but not physical installation (I can't do that without a running vehicle to set fluid levels and such).

If anyone gets to the physical install before me, please post up the confirmation.

I'm considering either the DEI heat mat, the AC Performance one listed at the bottom of this page (the Amazon knock off of the DEI mat), or the DEI Pipe Shield (assuming it won't wear the flex joint):

$52 Design Engineering 010450 Titanium Pipe Shield 6" x 1' Exhaust Heat Shield

Amazon.com: Design Engineering 010450 Titanium Pipe Shield 6" x 1' Exhaust Heat Shield : Automotive

 

Why must I over complicate a single gauge? Just about done. Once I get from kid pick up I’ll terminate and mount and it should hopefully fire off. Then on to finish the water meth redo.

 

Phew, great info!

 

Geez. I'm still waiting for my pan...

 

Meth controller in place. Ran out of time to finish the meth system so hopefully tomorrow or Thursday. Depends how froggy I feel with this nasty weather.

 

Weather is still colder than heck but at least the sun is out. Going to work on the meth pump and wiring after lunch. Not sure if I’ll get the actual turbo on this weekend as the weather is supposed to be nasty again but we’ll see.

 

Nice, the gauge on that mount looks great! Looks like it was a long meeting... haha

 

I need an adult.

I want to mount the pump here.


Is that going to be to close to the exhaust? It’s essentially the same spot the manual says on the driver side, but it’s the passenger side.

 

Ya we are getting ready to roll out phase two of an upcoming ERP so we were on a 2hr walk through call today to get people up to speed. I helped do the UAT testing so I was more there for refresher than anything.

 

Make sure you dry mock the downpipe and exhaust piping before adding anything in that area. There is no reason it can't be further back towards the bed too, then it's a non issue if you are putting it on the passenger side.

 

Ya but the frame isn’t boxed so then it’s having to get creative on that so was trying to be lazy.

Have I mentioned how much I hate wiring?

Does it matter which wire on the solenoid is tied to the controller and which one is tied to switched 12?

 

Is there any concern the pump being exposed to the environment, salt/debri? I know you don't have room in engine bay but that was the reason I mounted mine passenger side rear fender by my ecu.

 

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It should not, it's a pass-through Power Open, No Power Closed, just like a fuel injector.

 

No salt here in Texas and I don’t off road this truck so not a major concern. Instructions have it mounted down there.

Got a pic of where yours is mounted?

 

I've had mine under the truck for years, no issues. But I supposed good cleaning maintenance and protection are a solid plan.

 

I forgot where you are located and if @TurboKits runs it there with their wintery salt roads then it good. Just was thinking out loud.

 

Good info!

 

6hrs of wiring and I’m fried. I hate that crap. Meth system is 90%. Just need to mount the pump and wire it and then buy a switch for the arming. After that, turbo time.

 

No, it doesn't matter. The solenoid has no polarity.

 

AEM needs to update their docs because it says to connect to the negative wire.

Have I mentioned I hate wiring? I get way to in my head and over complicate things. Plus it sucks to run and make look good. Only 4 more terminations though and I’m done.

 

I noted that too. Basically the important thing to know is that the controller provides the negative(-) when active therefore the switched wire must be the 12v (+).

I totally understand your frustration with the wiring setup. There is a lot to do. In my case is like a therapy . I like to spent time on that but really takes time, a lot of time. It can get complicated specially when you have other important responsibilities. I welded all connections, used heat tubbing, flex split wire conduit, plus recorded everything. Also I made my own harness because the harness that came with the kit was not long enough to reach the tank sensor and the pump installed in the side of the bed.

My recommendation is to take your time, be patient, don't rush it, try to do it the best you can, if there is something you are not 100% sure ask for it, enjoy the process and share