What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Meant to post this last weekend but I ordered the upgraded SPC UBJs and they require changing the knuckle insert. The shank on the sealed/upgraded UBJ is a little longer and the knuckle insert is flipped. UBJs came out with the persuasion of a hammer, but the knuckle insert needs to be pressed out. I think it could be done with the Total Chaos tool or a parts store ball joint tool, but figured out my own way instead with what was readily on hand. The knuckle inserts are held in place with a snap ring and I used a little 3n1 penetrant. I used the same method for installation of the new inserts, but in reverse.

Truck is still on blocks and I need my shocks rebuilt since one is starting to leak. Might just throw on the reman steering rack I have sitting around too since I'll need an alignment.






In other news, the weather in Palm Springs was perfect last weekend.

 

Swapped out old broken ass key fobs to an AJT case. Old aftermarket fobs finally broke but unfortunately those guts didn't sit right in the AJT case and would set the F'in panic button off when putting on the back cover thus causing my neighbors to come a knockin' at my door for a welfare check lol. Guess they thought I may be calling for help.
All in all I'm happy with the case, it's still a little snug so I can actually just sqeeze the fob to lock the doors instead of actually hitting the button.
Posted the link to the fobs that worked in the AJT case below so it may help anyone that doesn't have a factory key fob avoid the issues i had. I had success in pairing with this set of (alternate instructions) from the packaging.
https://a.co/d/f9dT1KS

 

4runner? Why it need all that?

 

Google for: Quart bottle hand pump

It basically screws onto your existing bottle and has a tub attached, which you stick into your diff fill hole, then just pump-pump-pump u ‘til the bottle is empty. Easy no-mess solution. I know Slippery Pete sells some but the one I bought to replace the old one I lost during our basement remodel doesn’t seem to be as advantageous a ratio as my old one so it takes like 60-80 pumps or something to get thru a full quart.

 

That's what I use on both the big and small Lucas bottles.

Us SW folks were just talking about this, though. When I swapped my rear, I used my pneumatic brake bleeder to suck out that extra 8oz of fluid or so that is below the drain plug .

 

That's surprisingly expensive for a couple of small sections.

 

Sequoia.

 

Ahhh the double cab SUV.

 

Use it.

Torsen diffs don't care if it's synthetic or not.



I wonder if that recommendation is a carry over from their clutch type LSD recommendations.

 

I just transitioned my double cab to a Sequoia actually picked up a cheap snugtop this morning

 

This would sell like hotcakes at an over landing symposium. Just advertise it at a Molle bumper and slap a $3500 price tag on it.

 

It said 80w90 glp5 mineral oil or some shit

 

Okay..02 tundra , last couple of days I have replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, those coil over things, put in a new thermostat ( was running cold) and...... found my negative battery terminal was literally fried / corroded completely thru... maybe a clue? My turn signals and hazards stopped working. I hit a deer recently and the wire was touching metal or maybe getting wet... so I wrapped it all in electrical tape and replaced the fuse and it works fine. Spent lots of $ on OE parts cause it's my baby... BUT!! It is still have this problem... it dies immediately after the 1st crank and starts on the second..? And I'm getting hesitation and sputtering on acceleration..! Oh yeah I forgot.. also replaced MAF sensor after it showed a code ...? What the heck else I need to look for? It's always start truck and die.. start again and good... I'm running it right now to see how bad the hesitation and sputtering will be today.. I
Could really use some suggestions please.

 

Okay still reading MAF and same symptoms... I also put in A new air filter too... maybe throttle body or some other sensor?

 

Make sure you only use OEM fuel filters. Aftermarket don't flow enough and/or tend to clog. We have some guys here still on their original factory filter after 25 years. Then we have had others with aftermarket filters that, well, see this.

Needless to say: This is one of those times when you want to make sure you use OEM.

Remind again what the issues/codes are?

And did you check the crank position sensor wiring harness?

Got any pics of the damage so we get a ballpark of what was impacted?

 

The code read MAF twice now. Although I haven't drove it very far.. I didn't get the actual code number. I was just trusting the auto store reader guy... probably not a smart idea I have not checked the crank position sensor harness yet, but I definitely will. Like I said in the video I find working on my truck somewhat enjoyable at times I am not a mechanic. But have done a lot of successful work on my truck so far

 

I'm trying to upload

 

I can't send vids...? So every time I turn the key to start it cranks over then dies. On my second attempt, it starts up and idles just fine. It does this every time first start Guy second start just fine. I tried to send a video of this. Now I can't seem to find a pattern but around second or third gear when I step on the gas while driving, it starts to hesitate very noticeably sounds like sputtering I'll lay off the gas pedal and it seems to drive beautifully if I'm not trying to force feed it a bunch of gas

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/44ZAGcxuBbw?si=qN_x_-8X6DGZOWYu

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/NxSwTq5EnYs?si=RrTPC6PZRrkPiarb

 

Maybe someone smarter will speak up but I would think fuel draining off/loosing prime during the first crank then repriming and firing off on the second.

 

Finished the timing belt today around 330, filled it with coolant and it fired off without skipping a beat. When you buy new radiator hose clamps from Toyota, they come pre-sprung!!! That was exciting to let loose when it was time. New rad hoses, rad, and cap. The rad they sent was missing a threaded clip to mount it to the support so I just stole the side bars off my old one

 

Well shit... let me apologize for being one of the newbie / rookies who just jumps on here in An emergency trying to figure stuff out 10 minutes before I need to drive down California for 3 hours... I think I F'd up. I was given a wix filter. Didn’t even consider the aftermarket junk I just read from that thread. I'll be changing back to the best I can buy... I still have the one I took off..? Anyhow just had a great experience @ the auto parts store... some tweeker walked out with an expensive tool kit and just started running... well the young man who works there actually got in his car and chased him down and brought it back.... no wrestling match needed... he had his own gun handy to persuade the POS to drop it politely and keep moving on... best thing I've seen in a long time..! I'll eventually figure out what's bothering my Toyota... just need some suggestions so I can do the YouTube university and figure it out... and hopefully buy more tools for my collection...

 

Did it specifically start after the deer, or weeks after, months after, ???

I see that crack on your windshield. That's a potentially huge problem. Have you checked your ECU and the back of the in-dash fusebox for water intrusion? From the community Megathread, I'd be checking all these things if I were you:

• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables happens. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt (pic), correct routing info here. There's also a similar problem with camshaft position sensor under the cam cover, where the belt will rub through (pics). There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water leaks can send water down into the ECM behind the glovebox (pics), or into the fusebox inside the cab/dash (pics & pics & pics, it happens a LOT). Many drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

 

Sequoia. I gave this dude my old LCA's and he put some poly bushings in em. Didn't get to the steering rack and tie rods. But we're both off work toward the end of this week, and he's still waiting on new coilovers. I worked last night and I'm at work now....burning the candle at both ends

 

You said your code is for MAF sensor. What MAF sensor do you have in there?

 

Looks like a sweet tree