1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Only 80k, but i dont know how many times the 5 digit odometer looped. It got 8mpg hypermiling & 8mpg running flatfoot. And it didnt do anything in a hurry, i’m pretty sure it couldnt handle any load and the hills, and it didnt have OD.

 

Welp truck just started shaking noticeably more, cel flashed, and I got a misfire in cylinder 6 yay

PO306

What’s the consensus on driving it home in an hour of traffic?

 

Nope. Park it for a couple hours so you can load it easy & not cook it.

 

Fun funnn
Kinda smells like a skunk, and the vibrations come and go
Wonder if perhaps an O2 sensor is going out too

AAA it is

 

Rock Auto code... 296745110266692807
April 25th expire..

 

Who’d a thunk I’d buy parts from them 2 weeks in a row

Thanks for the code

 

And for whatever reason the Chevy HD trucks use torsion bars instead of of solid front axles like all the Dodge and Ford HD trucks.

 

The Ford Rangers with the I beams are perfect for building LT prerunners. I want to say they were 93-97

 

I drove my T100 from San Marcos to Houston (like 4 hours) with multiple misfires. It's not ideal, but you'll be ok. Just take care of it ASAP. If you can, go ahead and check the spark plugs and change any bad ones or all of em, then drive home. But these engines are resilient.

 

Sweet thanks for the heads up. Gonna pull the plugs tomorrow, although they were replaced within the last couple years sooo we shall seeeee

What ended up chasing your misfires?

 

It needed all new plugs, wires, and one or two ignition coils. It had like 330k miles and a lot of other issues. Which is why I sold it and bought another tundra. I never should have bought that t100, but I wanted one so bad and I overpaid for it and lost about $1k in parts when I sold it.

 

Mine has a 460 with an C6 trans and it gets about 9mpg. I then installed a Gear Vendors overdrive unit…which bumped it up to about 10mpg. Definite marketing scam with those auxiliary OD units. They do split the gears quite nicely, but improved mpg, not so much.

 

All last week i was down in Mexico helping out a friend at the Sonora Rally. It was quite a trip since it was 1000 miles just to get to the mexican border from up here in oregon. The furthest we ended up into mexico was about 8 hours south of the border. There were tons of 1st gen tundras everywhere. I was hoping to take a lot more pics of them, but we were kinda on a time crunch. I did get a pic of a 4wd 1st gen DC towing a full size chebby (somewhere in SoCal). No engine or transmission in the truck, but it was still an obvious struggle for the lil Tundra. The truck was cruising along at 60mph, which was a decent speed on the flat roads, but on any hills its speeds definitely dropped off quite a bit.

 

Forgot to post this. Changed the timing belt on my mom’s LS430 this weekend.

This is the 4th time I’ve done a UZ timing belt- did the whole thing in 5 and a half hours, completely by memory.




Also did all the serpentine pulleys and tensioner, spark plugs, brake pads, and cleaned the throttle body. This thing runs smooooooooth. Going to send it out in May to have the transmission serviced (no dipstick) and CarPlay installed on the factory screen.

Part of the reason it was so easy is because the car is from California and has relatively low miles. Zero rust, no corrosion, everything is just clean. So so nice. Really jealous of all the people who don’t have to deal with rust.

 

Received and installed (with zipties) new TYC driver-side turn signal housing from RockAuto. Further inspection of the damage with things taken apart.

• Gap under the turn signal housing due to bent steel piece (that little rectangular-ish thin piece, an arm of the fender piece)
• Gap under the headlight housing (headlight housing plastic mounting all smashed, currently installed with zipties). Had to hammer down the little steel piece under the headlight housing to make it flat for the headlight housing bottom edge.
• Perhaps the most concerning: larger gap now between driver-side fender piece and the hood. I haven't taken the car to get washed because I am worried about water intrusion from that new ingress point. I don't want my engine bay to get soaked and cause issues if I drive it in the rain or if I spray water on the hood to clean the truck. Valid concern or nah?

I have included pictures of how it's all currently fitting together and including with hood closed. Thoughts, comments, suggestions on replacement parts are all appreciated. Some bumper mounting pieces (steel pieces) are cracked and bent as can be seen in the photos. The plastic lower bumper that houses my fog lights is itself toast, hanging on there cracked and loosely. I would happily take suggestions on replacement parts. Also, any suggestions for an aftermarket bumper that requires no welding? Doesn't look like that's a common route we take here. I might just replace with the cheapest option...(OEM or OEM-equivalent plastic with round fog holes).

 

If I were you, the first thing I'd be doing is hunting out a donor fender in black, preferrably with flare intact. Then I would be hunting out the little "brow" piece that sits under the headlight. You'll also need a replacement bumper skin.

You won't really know what you're up against until you get that front quarter/fender off, and see what things look like underneath. The sheet metal on the fender and bumper plastic are bent outta shape. There's likely nothing you can do with them. Once you hang the new fender you'll know whether things will ever be straight, and you can set the gaps at the door, then at the hood (but carefully open the door after both look right to ensure the door doesn't grab your "new" fender).

You'll want to see if the bumper impact brace is impacted. It may not be clear until you get the bumper skin off.

That's about all I can say.

 

Damned deer.


But chicks dig scars.

 

Nice job!

All of this area is causing the fender gaps to the hood. These panels are pretty thin and it's buckled. You can try to work it out with body hammers(inside) and a wooden block on the outside, if you take the fender off. Good chance is that it won't be perfectly straight.




There is also a chance that the front core support is also shifted inward and bent from the mounting point with the fender. You'd need to straighten this area as well.



Junkyard parts will be the cheapest, but no matter what route you take it'll need paint unless you find another black Tundra at the yard. I'm almost certain that your Tundra's paint code is 202 (Seen on the VIN label. It'll say C/TR and the numbers beside it. C= Color and TR = Trim). 202 is just straight black with no metallic flakes or other tinting. Two stage paint. This means that you won't need to blend the door for color match reasons.

 

Thanks. I'll get on disassembly when I have time off work. Pretty sure the impact brace inside is bent inward as well. No damage to the rad or anything else thankfully.
Noting that anything I do is at my own risk, would you be concerned with that level of hood gap to avoid driving in the rain in the meantime? I worry that I, well, am worrying too much about it for "in the meantime" driving. Tearing this down will probably come after I do "the big job" TB/WP/starter/rack/etc.
Ultimately I know there's only one way to find out, just put water on it and see how bad it gets. Guess I just answered my own question.

 

That gap is fine and won't cause you any issues.

 

Thanks fam. I'm thinking junkyard eventually as well to nab some of those steel "support" pieces as well. Paint is an aftermarket spray job so I don't expect cost to be too bad on that side of things.

 

That reminds me. With an aftermarket paint job they remove the badging and I have no use for it. Free to a good home. SR5 DC V8 badging, just pay for shipping.

 

Some of those braces are built into the fender. They added "pedestrian brackets" to the front end for impacts with...well...pedestrians. The flare will be a bitch to get off and be able to save it. It has really really weak tabs on the inside that generally pop off when you try to get it off.


I use this on any touch up spots for my 202 black Tundra. It has clear built in so essentially this makes it a 1 stage paint. It looks great with those areas, but I'm not sure how it would look on a much larger area. It would all depend on your prep work and technique. It's also satin, not glosssy.

 

Might just try a simple can of that and spray it down when done fixing. Good point on the fender flares. I have attempted removal in the past and stopped to avoid cranking on them too hard for fear of snapping something. Gotta love flimsy plastic parts.

 

@DarkMint Here is the diagram and names for the parts to help out. Just look for the numbers on the right and match them to the names on the left. I can get the part numbers if you need any. Just hit me up or use the Toyota parts search on the website.

Based on my 2006 Doublecab

 

Much appreciated. That graphic is already helping me understand the way it's built.

 

The actual names may vary of some of the parts. This is from my estimating system that utilizes all makes and models so some part names are generic. For example in the last photo the "splash shield" is actually a skid plate. Most cars have plastic covers on the underside of the vehicles to prevent splash back from the road. While technically it is a splash shield, its called something else for the Tundra due to different usages hah.

 

I recently hit a deer. Pushed the fender back so that the door would not open. I carried it to a body shop and paid to have the body lines put back correct. No other repair. I'm okay with the dents in the door and bed. Cost was $125 for a little over an hour labor.

 

Has anyone ran the K03's yet? It's coming up on tire time for me and I have K02's on it now. They're fine tires but they spin on wet roads sometimes. I'm chewing on the Toyo AT3's or the K03's. P265/65R17