New to me 2003 V8

I just got this thing. Rust free. I’ve ordered timing belt, water pump, plugs, valve cover gaskets and radiator, all oem. All fluids about to be changed and all 4 O2 sensors and an oem radiator.

I’m removing the lift kit and installing bilsteins 4600 and Mickey Thompson Baja boss tires.

two questions…what long tube headers and exhaust could I order to make it a little quicker and sound better, any recommendations? Is this worth it?
Second question: should I order the polyurethane steering bushings and if so, from where?

thanks for any info

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! First step is to read this:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Longtubes without tuning can become an emissions/o2 sensor headache, it is fun and improves performance.

 

Welcome to the forum.

Keith @dirtydeeds could certainly give you some good advice on the headers and probably the bushings as well.
He is a forum vendor.

Dirty Deeds Industries

 

Don't overlook checking the LBJs

 

The mechanics said the lbj’s look fine…maybe I should just have the replaced while it’s at the shop….
but since I am removing this 3” lift kit I am wondering if I am going to neeed new sway bar links?

if long tube headers and exhaust require tuning I’m probably going to pass on those

 

LBJs fail on these trucks w/o warning. DO NOT, under any circumstance, allow anyone to install aftermarket / non-OEM LBJ. Read the first two replies of the thread @Bakershack shared. We as a community have seen some shit. A lot of the pictures of said shit (LBJ fail) are linked in that thread. It's not a joke in these trucks. It's not hype. Some people got lucky. Chances are, you or I won't be one of those lucky people.

Depends what's on there now. Also depends on what size tire.

What's the current 3" lift?
What size tire are you planning on using?
Are you planning on using a lifted spring with the 4600s?

Need to know this to advise you. But again, see the link Bakershack gave. Be sure to read over the "suspension wheel & tire" section carefully.

Long tube require cat delete. Unless you can find a way to O2 sim, or program out stuff in your ECU, you're going to be perpetually fighting with check engine lights related to AFR/O2/cat.

 

I haven’t seen much gain from Toyota engines with just headers. Now add forced induction of any type and yeah buddy gains. There’s the sound factor, but cat back can sound pretty Knarly too.

 

The lift is a rough country or tough country i forget, it is using blocks.

I bought the Bilstein 4600 set from a link I saw from Shifty on here right before I joined, they are stock height springs from suspensionlifts.com. The tires are Mickey Thompson Baja Boss 265/70/16's.

(Bilstein 4600 Front Assembled Coilovers with OE Replacement Coils and Rear Shocks for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra)

I don't want it lifted, part of the appeal is the easy unloading/loading and smaller size of the 1st gen with the 8 foot bed.

With shocks, tires and parts/labor I'm around 4500 bucks, these LBJ failure threads are concerning..

**Is there a link to some good LBJ's I can order and from what you can tell from my info should I order new sway bar links or any other suspension items for the lift kit removal?

 

There's a massive difference between Tuff Country and Rough Country. Rough Country usually uses silver shocks/struts with the N3 logo on them. Like THESE. They sometimes mix struts and strut spacers (which is a huge fucking no-no) to achieve lift. Their kits almost always use rear blocks.

Look - if you want help, I'm going to reiterate this. Get us pics of your current setup. And fill in some blanks here:

1. Multiple pictures of your front suspension: Top of the strut tower where the 3 bolts are so we can see if there's spacers, the swaybar links and LCA, the lower strut mounts, just shoot everything.
2. Pics of your rear suspension: Overall shot of your rear axle so we can see what's at play back there for blocks/spacers, if there's anything else going on.
3. And finally: Tell us your goal. Are you simply wanting to get back to OEM ride height? What size/type of tires are you wanting to run? Which wheels do you currently have, specifically, so we can figure out offset/backspace? Knowing this is the only way anyone here will be able to give you good, quality advice so you're walking out of this happy.

If it were me, I think our trucks sit about ½"-¾" too low in the front from the factory, with OEM ride height. And I think the best possible upgrade anyone could run, to fill that gap, is the 4600 or 5100 Bilstein using OME's 2883 coil, which as someone covered recently, requires a different spring isolator (can get the part number), and of course, swapping out the springs.

 

I want oem as of right now. Here are the pics, thanks for taking the time to help me.

 

the tires i ordered are 265/70/16

 

Ok looks like no spacers up front and a 2" block in back. Ultimately it's their 2.5" lift kit. The PO even installed it correctly with the LSPV relocation bracket. That's nice to see, even if the lift isn't great.

You'll want to pull the blocks out back when you install your 4600s, if that's the route you're going. You'll need shorter U-bolts to boot, something stock length (I can get OEM part# if you need it).

If lowering the rear, you'll want to pull that LSPV relocation bracket while you're in there.

I think you should be able to run that tire size with minimal rubbing, but there are two factors in whether that is truth: 1) Your alignment numbers and 2) your wheel specs.

What's the current tire size? Do you know which model of whell that is?

 

Current tire size is 286/75/16
Here’s a pic of the wheel. It’s 17” diameter from outside edges of the lip

 

I think those are the Toyota 4Runner 16" Enkei wheels?

I'd need to dig up specs. Running out to a job, though. I'll check in on it later if nobody else is able to answer. More than anything, I'm just wondering what the width and offset are so we can figure out backspacing and see if the upsized tire @ 265/70r16 (@30.6" so stock) won't be a rub risk, given there won't be any lift involved.

 

Thanks a LOT for the help. Just ordered the correct color drivers side female seat belt assy to get rid of the flashing light. The contact cleaner didn't work. The burned out "D" light on the dash can wait. I assume the 265/70/16's wont rub at oem height??? It didn't occur to me these wheels weren't oem, I've only had it 2 weeks.
I could use those number for the U-bolts if you have em, I'll order them

 

That is stock size so as long as your wheel offset doesn't screw you then it should be fine. You should be able to recoup some of your money reselling your current tires that look nearly new, as well as selling your lift kit you have now.

 

Where did you get those blue PU sway bar bushings from? (asking for a friend)

 

Shoot I just noticed them when I was taking the pics! I just recently purchased this.

 

Shit, I plugged 17 in the calculator instead of 16. You're right.

 

WHEW

 

anyone have part #'s for stock U bolts and some good LBJ's? Those failed lbj pics on this site got me worried...

 

To go full OEM again?

Exploded EPC for random V8 2003 RCLB @ https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/gsk50/3906/chassis/4804/

You'll need four of these: 90117-A0004
And eight of these: 90178-A0050
And eight of these: 94622-51400

NOTE: That website is going to show you the **MSRP** price, not the final price.

If you want free shipping and no tax, order the parts from THIS NATIONAL SITE and you should be able to get out the door for right around $100 given the 25% off sale they have going on for the next week or so, and their already-substantial discount below MSRP.

The full discount WILL NOT show up until you reach the "Checkout" page.

 

Another option: a local spring shop.

My local spring shop made up a set of unbolts, and supplied new nuts and washers for well under $100CDN. They fit perfectly and were very heavy duty. The shop does spring work for transport trucks, dump trucks, etc so everything they do seems to be good quality.

 

just ordered them for 100 bucks, looking for lbj's on there now, do they need new bolts or anything?

 

this all I need?

 

General wisdom is to get new bolts. Some years (earlier) you definitely should.

Here's a rabbit hole thread.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/

 

Always new bolts.

 

got everything ordered. Can't think you guys enough, thanks Shifty. I'll send pics of the spectacular OEM build in a few weeks! Also will have a lift kit and new tires I'll need to unload if anyone wants it cheap, I am near OKC