Rear Dome Light Not working after LED light install blown fuse HELP

Hey guys, I have an 08 DC Tundra and tried installing some LED lights and everything was going great until the final rear dome lights and I saw a spark when trying to install them against the metal reflector and then blew the 7.5 amp fuse under the hood. I removed the metal reflector and replaced the fuse first with a 15 amp fuse then bought a 7.5amp fuse. All interior lights like courtesy and front map lights came back on but the rear dome light is still not working. Is this on another fuse maybe under the dash? If so where? Could the prongs on the bulb socket be tweaked a little bit? I had some trouble getting them to go back in? Any advise is greatly appreciated.

 

Try pulling the fuse then reinstall the rear bulb but reverse the direction you pulled it in 180° it could just be a polarity issue. Then reinstall fuse and try it out

 

Shouldn't be any more fuses. If rotating bulb does not work, inspect the prongs on the dome light. I bent mine a bit on our 07 when installing LEDs and didn't realize it, had similar issue. Had to get a flash light to see, and a screwdriver or needle nose to tweak the prongs back in place. Remove fuse before tweaking.

Good Luck

 

Yeah I tried rotating the bulbs around thinking I just had them in the wrong polarity but that was not it here is a picture of the prongs do you think they are damaged

 

Here is a close-up

 

They do not look damaged but maybe not in-line very well, also hard to tell if they have the same gap or the prongs "springiness" are good. Thinking I may have tweaked a prong a bit to close the gap and bite on bulb tighter.

If possible verify your voltage with fuse in with a meter or old bulb.

Led's bases are often a bit different than the incandescent bulb, the prongs have to make the correct contact on the base of the LED bulb. You may have to have them more to one side or the other in the prongs to get the contact needed.
I would also try to make sure the new LED bulbs do in fact work, maybe in another light. Not unheard of being bad out of the box.

 

I think it was Brian @csuviper who had an issue with a busted dome switch? He did a write up on how to replace. I could be wrong but maybe you blew that when it shorted out

 

I ditched the LED bulbs and am trying to put the oem bulb back in.

 

My neighbor has both of these. I have never used either one. Can you walk me through how to use these to test to see if I am getting juice to the bolb socket?

I also only had the 15amp fuse in for a very short time bc I want to test and make sure it was a blown fuse. I then ran to the parts store the next day and got a 7.5 amp.

 

I had similar issues.

After completely mutilating the rear dome light sockets trying to make the switch, to the point I actually had to purchase a new-used overhead console...pretty embarrassing...I changed the front dome lights to LED's, but left the rear ones halogen.

I know this probably isn't the answer you wanted to hear.

 

Probably best and easiest to ask neighbor to help you check for voltage. Quicker, easier, maybe give you a quick tutorial.

 

I asked the local shop and they said they highly doubt a 7.5amp fuse increase is enough to burn wiring but we will see. Stay tuned.

The only problem I see is there is not a piece of metal close by to ground the test light to or multimeter. Can I hold the metal reflector in my hand to use as a ground?

 

The reflector will not work. The ground needs to be a fixed metal piece, part of the truck, unpainted. It can be a metal screw or bolt holding something to frame or body.

 

I bought a new overhead and threw the bulbs under the backseat.... a year ago

 

Always use a smaller fuse than the original if you don't have the same rated fuse. Even a fraction of a second with a higher rated fuse can cause a nightmare situation.

 

That local shop is nuts. That 15 amp fuse was twice the rated value. TWICE....I wouldn't let those guys anywhere near my truck.

 

I'll give a "for example" which you would get it of course Ron. Only for general info for other forum members that don't know a lot about this sort of stuff. Pull out the 10 amp fuse for the horn. Put in a 5 amp. Yes this is the reverse of what we are talking about. Same difference though. A known perfectly good 10 amp rated horn circuit. Honk the horn for a couple seconds. 5 amp fuse...BLOWN! When you don't know for sure about the circuit your testing....never ever...ever use a larger rated fuse...unless you have deep pockets. Heh..heh.

 

Another example.....Where I work.....Sometimes a very very expensive test equipment will come in for repair. Let's say it's valued at $80K. Won't power up....check 2 amp slo blo line fuse.....2 amp slo blo line fuse blown.....put in the correct 2 amp slo blo fuse...turn on test equipment. Fuse blows again....now let's get stupid...(I've seen so called experienced repair techs do what is coming up next)..."Dang, I'll put in a 10 amp fuse and see what happens...should power up now!"... Yep...unit powers up for a few seconds followed by a lot of smoke and tech just caused $10K in unnecessary damage where maybe some simple troubleshooting would have found a shorted $20 filter capacitor on the input power supply. Career ending mistake....

 

YEP! The moral of the story is.. ask us first.. Some of us old farts know a few things. And yes...a lot by trial and error. Don't ask .. heh...heh...

 

Finally got a chance to get this looked at and the shop said it was a bad rear dome switch. They said I have to replace the whole upper console. Is that true? Can I not just replace the switch it self? How hard is it to drop the overhead console?

 

Ive had to always learn shit the hard (and expensive) way too. I will not comment on the nightmares of LED interior bulb replacement nor the nightmares of exterior LED bulb replacement. Even blew Toyotas mind on how sensitive the electrical and computer system is when it comes to what the truck thinks is a "low voltage" situation going on when its simply less power being used to burn LED bulbs vs incandescent.

Tundras don't like LED bulbs, at least my 2013 5.7 4X4 CM didn't.