What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I’m wondering if he is talking about the fog lamp on/off switch and the instrument light dimming dial located to the left of the steering wheel under the driver side vent. Our earlier models have them.

Yesterday, I noticed my fog button is dim and the instrument dial knob doesn’t have any light to let you know where it is at night. Obviously, I know where it is by feel but its nice to have it lit.

 

My fogs are controlled on the light stalk. The dash I have a button to turn on the rear defrost, a toggle switch to slide my rear window open and closed and the dash dimmer

 

Repaired the handle cover I cracked yesterday (when dismantling the door cover) due to the brittle cold temps. Reminded me of the cold a few years back and how I cracked my front signal casings when installing the front headlights.

Used two part flexible epoxy. Touched up sanded with emory cloth.

 

Looks fine to me.

 

Both of mine split just like that. The cup for the screw is so weak.

 

It cracked above the lock where you are suppose to pry the clip over where it snaps in place. Everything was brittle yesterday.

 

Is this the short ground wire that’s right beside the nagative battery post going to the driver fender?

If so, mine is totally disconnected. What issues would this create?

 

Yes. The short stubby wire connected to the negative. It should be connected onto the frame with a 10mm screw through an eyelet connector.

Improper grounding may result in poor electrical reponse at devices. For instance, my stereo reset after the disconnect even though the battery cables were still connected.

Another instance (in the past) was one door switch was not working due to the screws not properly tightened onto the frame. You seeing any problems with yours missing? If not thats great.

 

That’s kinda what i was thinking. Currently my power door locks aren’t working or my drivers power window and door controls for all windows.

I just purchased this truck so I’m working out the gremlins.

What’s interesting is that every other door can control its window. But all the driver controls are out.

 

Try reconnecting that wire. It may solve some issues.

 

Wired up and tested the new D2S’s. Now just need to wait for the correct shrouds and extensions to arrive.

 

What is the final look of these you are trying to achieve?

 

They’re not for looks but light output. The stock reflector housing is horrific! There are shrouds that surround the reflector to block excess light which I am waiting for to finish the project.

 

Excited to see you tackling that @Casper421

I got a pair of channel locks out and thought I would need some Heman mega strength to get my old bump stops off, turned out they came off with one hand. Left handed even, I love California.

Little side by side with the superbumps from Wheelers



The bolt is a bit shorter than the factory bump stop but it will be fine.


After considering front or rear, I went with the front option. I did this because I figured if these create any twisting action by stopping one side of the arm first, I can minimize the leverage by going closer to the shock. Maybe?


I might be riding right on these, imagine a parallel line from control arm slot to control arm slot. When I held an arm to it there may just be a gap, I'll find out this week.


I have read that they squish an amazing amount, some report that they allow more up travel than the OEM ones, which I find hard to believe. I'm planning to test that myself soon and if the OEM one no longer makes impact, and if I like the ride, I may get another set for the rear bump stop to even out the twist.

 

I want some. Will be awaiting your review.

 

It’s not as difficult of a job as I anticipated. The hardest and most time consuming part was removing all the sealant. I’m excited to have headlights that will actually work well. I’ve been relying on the new BD fogs these past mornings.

I have a set of Superbumps coming with the front co’s. Keep us posted on mounting them on the front.

 

Hardest part for me was getting a weekend with the wife out of town. I couldn't stick car parts in the oven with her home.

 

That's when you buy them a day at the spa then do this:

 

I remember seeing that and thinking that guy isn't scared?

 

Single life

 

I bought my Tundra last week with two "ghetto keys and no remotes. I confirmed at dealer it came with remotes.
I just added back remote start used KEYLESSOPTION from Amazon (https://keylessoption.com/)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2qyjHD8JJE
Super Easy for cost of two remotes

 

The superbumps are nice, I have them on my double cab. It softened out the front end a little. They didn't allow more up travel on my 4runner, more of helped slow the up travel so I didn't just bang my shit haha

 

Can't wait to fit these new bad boys on

 

Replaced the stock steel wheels and caps on my 2002 with a Sequoia aluminum set from a wrecking yard, added step rails.

 

Yesterday, I removed the green rubbers on the main lighting bulbs (5) behind the instrument panel. Color went from light white with slight green to a much brighter orange/peach. Made the switch today to Cool Blue Sylvania LED. No sanding or painting of dash surface was performed like others have done. This is just light bulb replace. See pictures below.

***Note: Colors are much more vibrant/intense in person than in pics.


OEM HALOGEN (without green rubbers)



Below:
NEW LED SYLVANIA BLUE 168 Bulbs (white spot near the 80mph is from a white T-5 LED bulb as I did not have any blue. This is on order and is the last bulb to finish the project).

In person this new bulb set up looks ROYAL BLUE with pure evenness and continuity. For some reason the pics makes it looks washed out and uneven. The bulb behind 80mph is a pure white LED T-5. A blue one is on order as these are not found in auto stores. Give you an idea of going either way. The blue looks so cool and is much easier on the eyes in person. Looks like butt in the pics though.

 

Finished the last door on the sound damping/enhancing project. Installed butyl rubber with foil tape and some foam rubber on strategic areas in/on door cavity. Conclusion: The average OEM sound system sounds WAY better. All doors in total took about 4.5 hours. Backs are easiest. Fronts a little more technical.

Door closed on this project.

 

Had some extra 168 LED bulbs and replaced both rear license lights.

Cracked all the nuts on the propeller shaft and carrier bearing in prep for the bearing swap tomorrow. Been PB Blasting everything for a few weeks now so the job would be easier. Decided to NOT replace u-joints unless I see/feel something wrong tomorrow when its dropped.


Picked up a Duralast 150lb torque wrench from Autozone for $20 on sale. Normal price $30. Scored?

 

Got the efans installed on 12/1.. So far, I haven't seen any gains, and I'm not sure why. I do love the fact of how quit the engine is at start up. The load does dim the lights, so I'll be installing a capacitor at some point in the future.

 

Damn you guys are productive. I took my dog to work today

 

What are efans?