Just in CB +3/4 shims & Spidertrax Spacers

UPDATE #3
I got my tires installed (Nitto 295/70/18 Trail Grapplers). I took off the front mud flap and it still made contact with the front plastic where the flap was. I took off the two large bolts from the bottom and used a rat tail file to give more room for the bolt to move. As I pushed the plastic forward I used the washers that were on the bolts to hold it in place. The outer bolt has some sort of aluminum round spacer inside the plastic which I also rat tailed open(like the letter C). Once i bolted it all up i used a heat gun to push forward the plastic in the area that was touching. On the large mud flap I took out the inside top Bolt/Screw and drilled a New hole right under it on the crease. Then I forced it back to the original mounting hole and tightened it. This helped clear the tire on the back side mud flap. I took a crappy night shot of the truck on my angled driveway. I will try to get a better shot soon. I wasn't able to get a flat spot to measure from the floor to the fender.

UPDATE: #2 - 01/18/16
Just got the rear +3 Billet Shackles/Bushings done along with the drive shaft bearing spacers. Also finished up the rear 1.25" wheel spacers. Getting the leaf bushings out took some time but eventually they came out. After greasing the bushings and bolts, putting in the new bushings was easy and only took about 1 min. I'm happy with the finished product so far. Once I get my tires on I think it will look much better. Hopefully by tomorrow I can get the tires installed. Pictures included the truck was on my driveway (uphill) so it's kind of a shitty picture. When I went to return the rented ball joint press I measured the rear from the ground up and it was at 40 1/2" on stock tires.

UPDATE: 01/18/16
Just had time to finish my front CB install along with my 1.25" wheel spacers. I still have my factory tires on so once i get my 295 trail grapplers it should be around 40"(ground to fender). When i started on the second side i didn't loosen the camber bolts and just wedged the bar in the end link mount and forced the arm down. I was able to get the whole strut out. Pictures Included

Just got these BEEFY Parts in. CB +3/4 shims and Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers. Just waiting for my 295/70/18 Trail grapplers to come in. Once I install the tires I will come home and install the CB and wheel spacers. I'll upload some pictures at that time.

Dealing with David from CB was VERY easy. He knows what he is doing and builds quality parts. He spends as much time as you need to take care of any question you may have.

 

I can't wait to see it all together. Are you replacing UCA? During the install and after lots of pictures. Yes we are needy.

 

I am keeping the factory UCA for now. There are many members using the Factory UCA without any issues. I might do that and the Steering kit from CB at a later time. I will snap some install/final pics. My tires should be here Tuesday and ill make some time to get that done also.

 

Updated

 

Update #2 posted

 

Looking good, it's nice to see what the +3 looks like in the rear on a Pro. So what exactly is up front with the TRD coilovers, 2 shims?

 

Thanks bud, I have 2 shims on each side on the front.

 

Update #3

 

Very nice. Our trucks mod up really nice. I like how most don't look like they came out of a "Mr T Starter Kit". I am taking a break from modding the truck for a little while. I am putting Cherry and Holly floors in the boat with all new Cherry doors and tables down below.
Love the truck. Everything line up well on the rack?

 

Those CoachBuilder shackles are night and day way, way better than stock. Nice work.

 

The tire shop that mounted my tires had an alignment machine so i had them try. They set up the truck on the rack and it was showing +2.9 camber on the driver side and -2.8 camber on the driver side. Caster was some place in that area also. The guy was moving the adjustments to full left and right and the computer was showing only .01-.04 movement. After talking with David @CB he said he never seen that issue. After looking at the tire i told him thats noway i have +3 or -3 by the way they look. I also told him there is no way that much movement on the lower arm will only show .01 of a change. So I had him remove the truck from the rack and set up again. This time it was showing closer specs. So he did the alignment and got it at the outer limit of specs. I took the truck off the rack and drove 1 block to Just tires and they had a bad ass alignment machine. I had them put it up on the rack and the specs were off. I had them align the truck on their rack. They even hooked up the alignment tool to my OBD port to reset the steering to 0 degrees.

Thanks bud

 

Dude, how did you install the CB Shims up front? i attempted to a few weeks ago but i wasnt able to loosen the cam bolts without removing the TRD skid plate.

 

I had to remove the skid plate in order to remove the sway bar. I used this video: https://youtu.be/KyloaYxFgU8

It was a pita, but it was the only way I could get the shock out to put the shim on.

 

How difficult was it to remove the skid plate?

 

I just forced down the lower arm as shown in my pictures. I was just enough to slide out the lower part of the strut.

 

Thanks for doing this, as someone who just ordered the Pro Kit from CB the pics helped a lot. I'm planning on doing it my self and would love to not have to remove the skid plate.

 

I did the same thing, enough pressure on the LCA and you should be able to get the strut out. I used my body weight and a pry bar. Didn't say it was easy but it is possible. I've been running this setup for almost 2 years and love it.

 

Nice write up. I installed the +2s on mine. I did notice that your shackle bolts/nuts were pointed "the wrong direction". @Coachbuilder1 recommends having the nut on the outside of the truck to give the most room for the spare. The nut/bolt orientation makes no difference to the shackle functionality obviously. It is only for spare tire room.

 

Are you sure this does not cause any damage? so you keep the skid plate on and un-bolt the upper control arm? i cant find a write up on this for the PRO.

 

Didn't damage mine. If I remember correctly, I released the LCA by disconnecting the top of the spindle from UCA. UCA will remain in place and the rest of the wheel assembly (rotor, caliper, etc) will fall out and down. I know for a fact I did not remove my skid plate... It's the same process for removing any coilover really, the only difference is the pro is a bit longer to provide the lift as stock, but any write up showing you how to remove coilovers should set you in the right direction.

 

I forgot to mention that I did flip the bolts around.

 

Did you use spacers on the front and rear or just the front?