Mouse / Rodent proofing stage one.

First off, sorry if this has already been covered. I did search and could't find similar posts. I did find many posts related to mice or rodents in our Tundras causing damage, but not many solutions. I also did a Google search and couldn't find any instructions on how to block off the cabin A/C intake on a Tundra or Sequoia. I thought this may help a bunch of people, so I documented stage one of mouse proofing our Sequoia. I assume the Tundra is exactly the same. I'm going to do the same thing to my Tundra and if there are any differences, I will update this thread.

Tools / supplies needed:
Zip ties - 75# or more breaking strength and about 24-36" long.
Gutter guard or screen
14mm socket & wrench
Side cutters
Hammer
Center punch
Paint pen
Shop vac
Good beer - depends on weight, tolerance, time of day, ect. (I needed 2 cans of IPA.)
Tin snips / die grinder or hacksaw. Cutting torch if you are really serious.
3/16 or similar size drill bit & drill (Right angle drill may work best)
Philips screwdriver
New cabin air filter - not necessary but recommended.
Band-aids or gloves - your choice.


Step #1: Go to your big box store / local hardware store and buy some metal screen or gutter guard. I found some painted metal gutter guard at the Big Orange store. Under $4 for a 3 ft long piece. This will be enough for both our Tundra and Sequoia with some left over. Also pickup some heavy duty zip ties (if you dont have some already). I recommend 24" or longer ones - you will see why below.





Step #2: Remove the plastic cowling underneath the windshield. This takes a Philips screwdriver and a 14mm socket & wrench. There are two plastic clips - one on each side of the cowling that you can remove by popping out or using the screwdriver to loosen up and pop out. This is where the first beer comes into play. I spent 20 minutes searching for a 15mm socket, only to figure out I really needed a 14mm. My 15mm is obviously hiding out with the 10mm... Remove both windshield wipers with the 14mm socket. After the windshield wipers are removed and the two clips are out, the cowling will pop right off. Use a shop vac to remove all the debris and mouse / rodent evidence.

Passenger side:



Driver side:



After cowling removal:





Step #3 - Cut the gutter guard to approximately 13" long x 5" tall. This fit perfectly in our vehicle. I used tin snips, but a dremel tool, die grinder, hacksaw, cutting torch or nearly anything else would work.




Roughed out gutter guard:




Step #4 - Drink a beer or several. This depends on how much you need before you can drill holes into your $40k - $50k truck... For me it was about 2:




Step #5 - Drill holes around the large A/C intake. I drilled eight, but whatever you feel comfortable with. Note it is advised to use a center punch and hammer to make a start for your drill bit. I didn't on the first several holes and made an ugly mess.




Step #6 - Line up the gutter guard over the holes and mark the gutter guard with paint pen or chalk, maker, whatever.




Step #7 - Thread the zip ties through the gutter guard, through the holes you just drillled and back through the gutter guard. Use the paint pen marks to help line up everything. This is where the long zip ties come into play. Make sure you dont snug any up before you get them all started.




Step #8 - Ask your daughter for some band-aids after you puncture yourself on the sharp edges, or better yet go back to step #2 and put on some gloves. I asked my oldest daughter to get me a towel or band aid, my younger daughter came over and looked and then hollered out to her older sister - "Better get five band-aids!"



Step #9 - Slowly snug up all the zip ties working around the piece. Pretend you are torquing down a head or something. If you go too fast you'll break some off.






Step #10 - Cut off the zip ties flush and admire your handy-work. Forgot to take a photo of this, but you get the idea. Also clean out all the drill shavings and whatever else before you re-install everything.


Step #11 - Re-install the cowling and windshield wipers.


Step #12 (Optional) - Now that you have solved the problem side - remove and replace your cabin air filter with a new poop free version.

 

Good write up

 

I did this to my Tundra back in 2016 and I haven't seen a turds or blood on the A/C filter since. I also use dryer sheets under the seats, a bar of Irish Spring soap in the glovebox and peppermint oil on cotton balls under the hood. I do want to point out that you did cover the larger opening but from the pics it looks like you still left open a few spots for mice to get into. See the circled spots below


I used plastic fender clips to close the round holes and molded a small sheet of Dynamat in the left and right corners leaving a tiny weep hole for drainage

 

You are correct, I forgot to mention the smaller holes in my post. I used several layers of Gorrilla tape to cover those up. Dynamat is great idea. I'll try that if the tape doesnt hold up.

 

We also are using peppermint oil cotton balls around the cab and in the glove box & center console.

I also have an electronic Victor mouse trap under the driver seat. I can see the blinking light before I get in the truck if anything has been caught.

 

You guys scared me about the mice so I worked on mine today. I live with woods on three sides and have plenty of rodent activity. Does that wire going into the base of the windshield mean I have the heated wiper area?

 

same problem, too lazy to use screws and heavy metal mesh. Used 1/2' hardware cloth and windshield sealant that was around. worked out fine - no way for the rats to get into the cabin air filter and blower. Just cut the hardware cloth a bit larger than the openings (there are 3, 2 small ones on each end of cowling, one large one in front of glove box). Then cut some slots in the HC to allow tabs to slip in behind the sheet metal. Get it pretty flat and then gob windshield adhesive sealant on edges to keep them from rattling around. Vacuumed out nests, poop and fur using a small hose stuck into blower ports. Reassembled and with doors open put fan on high, maximum heat and sprayed lysol into intake where cabin filter normally is. Let it run 15 minutes and then put in cabin filter and closed it all up. Seems fine so far...but also added a sticky trap for rats by securing it with a sheet metal screw to the baffle over the engine, and baited it with bird seed and horse feed. Annoying that the sound material over the engine was torn off and used for nesting.

 

Thanks all for this thread. It seems that every camping excursion into the Utah high desert results in a packrat or mouse taking occupancy in the ventilation ducts. A few of them have led to expensive repairs.

Using the tips in this forum, I sealed off the three obvious locations on the firewall with welded wire fabric, sheet metal screws and silicon caulk to ensure they don't rattle loose.

Complications that i had with this mod include:
1. Be careful removing the cowling, as there are 4-6 clips built into the cowling that secure the forward edge. I used a bit too much force and snapped 3 of them off. DOH! (hopefully i won't need to replace a $300 piece of plastic)
2. Installing the screws was challenging and required some low profile tools for drilling and tightening.

Are there any other cabin openings that should be sealed to keep critters out ?

 

I’ll be doing this soon. Just moved to woods from desert.

 

Maybe a silly question but is there a trick to popping the wiper assemblies off. Mine are pressed on pretty good. Sprayed w a little wd-40

 

I am going to assume you have already removed the nut that holds the base of the wiper arm to the mounting post.

What I have found to work well, is a small two jaw puller, like a battery clamp puller. Just try to not damage the threads on the mounting post. If you don't have a puller, then you can use a small hammer to (gently) tap on the side of the wiper arm base, while rocking it. Just don't beat it to hard, or you could deform the base, as it is made out of 'pot' metal. I would strongly advise against using heat, like a propane torch. It could easily melt the 'pot' metal.

 

I guess for the outback, screening off is helpful. Around the home one needs an ongoing vermin eradication plan. You may mesh them out of your truck, then they go to the mover, ATV, or house itself.

I take the gloves off with mice, usually a pet proof ‘bait house’.

 

Yeah. Had the nuts off. Just didn’t want to pry too much. I’m assuming they’re splined. Sprayed some lube and letting it set. I have lots of free time right now so no hurry

 

The connection is sort of splined. The fit is like a compression joint. You have two cone like surfaces that are locked together with the pressure of the locking nut. Usually, the inner surface of the wiper arm connection has raised ridges that will imbed into the soft surface on the mounting shaft. When the locking nut is tightened down, the ridges lock the two surfaces together so the arm doesn't slip when the mount is actuating the arm. If the arm has been on the shaft for some time, the two surfaces will somewhat bond together, making it more difficult to separate them. Using WD-40 or some other type of penetrating fluid is a good way to start. As I mentioned earlier, a two jaw puller works well, but I have had success just gently rocking the arm on the shaft while LIGHTLY tapping it with a small hammer. Another possible method, if you have a second set of hands, is to have one person gently pry the arm from underneath on opposite sides, while the other lightly taps on the threaded shaft, taking care to not hit it too hard and ruin the threads. If you try this method, I suggest using a brass or soft metal drift to lesson the chances of peening the end of the threaded shaft.

 

I wish there was a site like this when we owned our '92 Camry. I couldn't understand why the HVAC blower didn't blow very well after a while. I found out a rodent got into the HVAC fan cage somehow and built a nest in it. It was a pretty big nest. My wife figured maybe because we left the recirc door open and it got into it. After that we never parked the car overnight in the garage without remembering to close it.

 

Some of these fixes I will try myself, others I won't be able to do due to disabilities. I thank everyone who posted some sort of fix. I still am tempted to have a large good quality airbrush painting of a mouse put on my superwhite. And an advertisement type logo for why it is there. How about I have a contest asking for your ideas for wording on that. When I was a young punk with a new chevy box van I had the album cover pic from the "Fly by Night" by Rush painted on the hood. For those who don't know, it is an Owl, wings spread, talons extended getting ready to pounce on............….well it doesn't show but could be, a MOUSE. Got tons of compliments on that one.

 

Seriously though, wouldn't we all appreciate it immensely if Toyota would make some factory changes to solve this obvious common problem. I love my Tundra otherwise, and I love my Tacoma as well. It was great that Toyota stood up and replaced the rotted frame on the latter. I went a step further when they did it and purchased all new parts for the undercarriage etc. including drive axles, lower A arms, shocks, quickstruts, rotors, drums, brake lines, pads, shoes list goes on and on. Now my 07 Tacoma rides like new. But without regular air freshening techniques they both smell the same, mousey.

 

They do make a tool called wiper arm removal tool, I've never had to use one, but once in a while you get one that's a bitch. Similar to the battery tool mentioned, and you can probably use that as well. WD-40 will do Squat, except protect it from rusting now. It is not a penetrating oil. Anyway, blocking of the big hole to the air intake to the cab and the air cleaner are good ideas, but as far as going gung -ho on every hole, forget it, they will find there way in. I hear the peppermint spray is good, I bought some extract my self and will try. So far the Bounce sheets work, but that's for my cars in storage, I wouldn't want my truck smelling like that. Mouse trap seems like a good idea, but if it's made to attract mice to there death, well that's why you have mice inside. Just a thought.

 

I’ve been using peppermint spray on all the vehicles. So far so good but I know I’ll get lazy on spraying after a while.

 

same problem diff rodent...squirrels, freakin tree rats, since shelter in place i wasnt moving the cars around as often. we live in an hoa so not in the woods. i believe it's only one but it started to make a nest in my daughters prius, then got into my daily camry, then my wifes sienna. some minor damage, but damage nonetheless. i realized it one day when i walked out of the house and saw one chillin on my daughter front tire like it was sittin on it's new patio deck. checked under all engine bays and saw droppings in 3 of 4 vehicles.

solution so far: i cut a micro fiber towel into four pieces to cover 4 cars. placed that on top of a piece of plastic (so the smell doesnt transfer) and doused it with critter ritter, then placed that on top of the engine covers. and i also check under hood daily now. i put notes on the seats to remove that stuff if you drive the car. so far working and no new activity after a couple of weeks but it's not a good long term solution. hopefully when the world opens back up and we're all driving them daily it will stay away.

prius


sienna

 

When I worked for Toyota I had to deal with rodent damage all the time. I would also recommend putting some poison in the engine bay. The insulated wires used mainly by Toyota have a soy based lining. So all kinds of rodents enjoy that ingredient.

 

holy rodents that have munchies, batman. nasty.

 

That's bad.....really bad.

 

I'll be doing this as well.
I've had my wiring harness and installation chewed up 4 times that totaled up to $21k.
they hit the main one as it comes out the fire wall. and knock sensor.

 

Car Manufacturers Sued Over Rodents Eating Soy-Insulated Wires

 

Wrap any wiring harness with aluminum screen, secure with electrical tape or zipties.

 

Our cars have way too much wiring to try to cover everything. I keep my Tundra parked in the garage now. Our cat stays in the garage over night so it seems the rodent presence is controlled pretty well.

 

add me to the list.. I had no idea mice would infest.. Just moved to the Country and first oil change, the dealership said my cabin air filter was all chewed up by mice presumably...

 

This has me all paranoid now! I've never had any problems with rodents damaging any of my vehicles, be it wiring or getting into the interior. Makes me worried. With COVID, just my Tundra is being driven daily (and not even daily), the Corolla and Grand Caravan are parked, save for me starting them up and driving them a bit every 2 or 3 weeks. I might be moving out to a rural area in a year or two, so more chance of rodent problems, presumably. I'll look for a place with a garage big enough to park our vehicles and maybe get a cat to control the rodent population. Only problem is my dog has a strong prey drive and goes after cats, so I'd have to keep them apart - not easy.

As for keeping mice or other rodents out of the ducts, I heard of a simple trick that I've been doing. Just remember to leave your air conditioning or heating on "recirculating" and apparently that blocks off the fresh air intake. I don't know how effective that is, and it obviously won't do anything for protecting wiring in the engine bay, but it's free, quick and easy, as long as you remember to do it each time you park the vehicle.