The definitive Steering Rack Thread - with solutions - Updated 10/2020 in first post

Hello All,

I like a lot of you have had the infamous steering rack failure (5 times personally and I've done almost 10 steering racks total to include helping my friends). This information applies to anyone from 07+...

If the below process confuses you or you have questions please feel free to reach out to me. I'm always here to help

The process to replace the Steering Rack.

Yes, dropping the front diff (on 4x4 trucks) is the right way to do it. My self and @osidepunker did the entire job in about 5 hrs. You can install the rack as one unit. The job goes like this:

Newest Part Number for most up to date rack (Oct 2020)
Rack Revision 4: - 07-13' 44250-0C160
14-20' 44250-0C131

1. lock steering wheel (use a strap and wrap around the wheel and tie to the base of the driver's seat)
2. remove two breather lines from diff
3. disconnect actuator cable from the passenger side of the diff.
4. unbolt ball joint cradles from top of the spindles/knuckles\
5. disconnect driveshaft from the front diff
6. disconnect outer tie rods from the rack and knuckles (first mark the threads where they were, count threads so you can get close when reinstalling the tierods on the new rack
7. remove inner CV from diff
8. unbolt and drop diff using a jack (Use a trans jack if you have one, makes it easy otherwise its a two-man job)
9. disconnect steering shaft at the rack
10. disconnect two hydraulic fittings at the rack (input and output)
11. disconnect two hose brackets from the front of the rack
12. unbolt two mounting bolts for the rack
13. remove the rack by sliding through the frame hole on the passenger side a bit to clear the drive side inner tie rod, then pull driver side down and back to the rear of the truck in the open area where the diff was.
14. remove bushings from the new rack by using a chisel under the lip of the metal sleeve
15. install new poly bushings from Energy suspension
16. install the new rack and replace the diff in reverse
17. spin each tire and draw a line on the tread
18. measure the distance on the front face of the tire (track width) and compare to the distance on the rear face of the tires
19. set toe to 1/16th narrower on the front track width as compared to the rear
20. get a professional alignment
21. spend the $3k you saved by doing it yourself on some fun truck mods

Below this is just some answers and information. All historical, new faster method posted above. Also here is my original thread on the TT forum. https://www.tundratalk.net/forums/t...initive-steering-rack-thread-solutions-2.html

check-in the comments as well there for more information its only 2 pages so not too much reading.

a few questions and answers
1. Does it happen to lifted and non lifted trucks?
A: Yes it does, the lift has a potential to cause earlier failure due to possible higher angles on the tie rods, however, most spindles provided with bracket/spindle lifts will relocate the outer tie rod to a higher mounting point to correct this issue. Also, stock trucks have the outer tie rod connect to the bottom of the spindle mount while aftermarket spindles will have you flip it so it sits on top. Also anyone with larger than stock tires could have this failure as the added weight and rotational mass adds force required to move and steer, with these racks operation at 12-1400psi they have a tendency to fail at the inner tie rod seals from excessive pressures developed when steering larger tires and lifts. And remember never go full lock to one side or the other, it helps save the rack.
See this image


2. what steering rack should I replace it with if mine goes bad??
Rack Revision 1: 44250OC60
Rack Revision 2: 44250OC80
Rack Revision 3: 44250OC110
Rack Revision 3: 44250OC100
Rack Revision 4: there is now a new part number again 07-13' 44250-0C160
14-20' 44250-0C131


You can also purchase a re-manufactured rack for a 07/08 which were less prone to problems and maybe a cheaper option.

3. Can I do the work myself?
A. Yes, it takes 8-12 hours depending on your mechanical working knowledge of cars.
Things to note. You can do it with simple hand tools and two sets of 3-ton jack stands. Although it does take longer with hand tools it can be done. You will need to drop your lift bracket from the cross member. (See image below), you will need a 35mm socket and a torque wrench that goes to 275ftlbs or higher for the main bolt that holds the bracket to the sub-frame. You will need to remove the steering gear box and hard lines off the steering rack to be able to pull it through the hole in the subframe out the driver or passenger side (i went passenger it was easier). Also, make sure your steering wheel is locked to avoid breaking the clock spring.
this image shows the bracket dropped down for clearance of the rack bolts.

this image shows the two hard lines on the rack which need to be removed. ( you may be able to pull the rack without fully removing them, but they do need to be disconnected from the steering gearbox. )

this image shows the hole in the sub-frame where the tie rods protrude and this is where you pull the rack out as well. Again you must remove the steering gearbox off the rack for it to slide right out.


4. What about air in the system?
A. The Toyota steering system is self-bleeding, once you reinstall everything and fill it up with fluid you need to turn the wheels while the truck is still lifted on jack stands. Turn left to right and right to left 10-20 times, this forces the air out of the lines, I also cycled the engine on for 5 sec then off again to cause the pump to cycle fluid through as well, you will need to check fluid levels each time you do this to ensure there is plenty of fluid in the resi. Once this has been done a few cycles you will have no air in the system.

5. Do I need an alignment afterward?
A. Yes of course anytime you do steering or suspension work always have the truck aligned afterward.

6. Is there anything else I need to worry about?
A. Yes, there are still two things not commonly mentioned about the steering racks and failures.
The stock rubber mounts for the rack are also a week point as well as the inner tie rod seals. I found a solution to this issue. My shop where I take my truck fabbed derlin replacement bushings for the rack to improve steering feel and rack mounting stability. I suggest anyone who replaces the rack and who wheels their truck to replace the stock rubber bushings with derlin or urethane bushings.

https://www.rogue-offroad.com/product-p/810107g.htm

The stock out tie rod ends is weak. @Coachbuilder1 has developed new Heim joint tie rod ends for various applications of lifted trucks. Here is the one he made for BDS lifts. I suggest contacting him and getting a set while you are doing the steering rack replacement you should upgrade the outer tie rods with heim tie rods to ensure positive steering feel and avoid tie rod end failure that may occur from extreme joint angles at full droop on mid travel suspension setups.

If anyone has any questions please feel free to contact me. I replaced my steering rack my self in 10 hours in the driveway the first time with just hand tools and an electric impact. It's not difficult just daunting and there are a lot of small steps to remember. I did have my new rack have bushing failures which caused excessive steering wheel and tire play and bad alignment which led me to replace the rack a second time and have new rack bushings made to avoid the issue again.
Hope this helps everyone. Happy wheeling!
~Bruce

 

Good info

I wish Toyota would offer a faster rack option

 

Thanks Bruce.

 

good stuff.
@csuviper

 

Can you chime in on this thread? I'm about to swap my steering rack (again). The first time Bruce and I got it out the passenger side by removing the worm gear at the housing, two bolts.

This time I want to try removing the front diff. Does that mean I can get it out the rear without removing the work gear???

Do I really have to "lower the tcase and trans to gain room under the engine"?

 

@LOTSOFTOYS ^^

 

How do you remove the gearbox while rack is disconected but still in place?

 

There are two bolts that hold them together they are on the backside of the housing ... however a new update

@osidepunker needs his rack replaced and I’m going to try a new way by dropping the front diff and pulling the whole rack out as a complete unit... so stand by for new pics soon we are doing the job the weekend June 1st

 

Two guys, 3 extension, 3 wobbles, 1 hour of your time, lots of beer and patience...

This time we're gonna drop the front diff and pull it out without removing the gearbox

 

Lemme know if I can swing by and be your photographer + beer and tool pit crew.

 

That would be awesome and extremely helpful since Alex is only gonna be at. 70% w his broken wing lol

 

I'll hold the beer to his lips , whatever support is needed!

 

^^that's me waiting for a drink like a baby bird

 

I'll bring a baby bottle and an IV, evaluate when I get there.

 

That would be AWESOME! I would rather replace the rack all together and not have to attempt to re-assemble this one after i get the body back in. Thank you.

 

@papasmurf just wondering if you guys got around to trying the diff drop method this weekend. I'm about to start this job tonight

Also what else do you guys think could help prevent this in the future? I'm running 37's on icons at 3.5" up front, so I expect I might have this failure again in the future if something doesn't get beefed up or angles corrected. I was thinking maybe coach builder heim tie rod ends or the ReadyLIFTOff Road Steering Kit might alleviate some of the angle stresses when off-roading.

 

Yes, dropping the diff is the right way to do it. We did the entire job in about 5 hrs. You can install the rack as one unit. Job goes like this:

lock steering wheel
remove two breather lines from diff
disconnect actuator cable
unbolt ball joint cradles from spindles
remove inner CV from diff
unbolt and drop diff using a jack (two man job)
disconnect inner tie rods from rack
disconnect steering shaft at the rack
disconnect two hydraulic fittings at the rack (input and output)
disconnect two hose brackets from the rack
unbolt two mounting bolts for the rack
remove rack
remove bushings from new rack by using a chisel under the lip of the metal sleeve
install new poly bushings from Energy suspension
install new rack and replace diff
spin each tire and draw a line on the tread
measure the distance on the front face of the tire (track width) and compare to the distance on the rear face of the tires
set toe to 1/16th narrower on the front track width as compared to the rear
get a professional alignment
spend the $3k you saved by doing it yourself on some fun truck mods

 

That

 

You should add the instructions to the original post and maybe update the part numbers. Keep the old information in there too for posterity

 

i might just do that... or i dont and let people struggle. LOL

 

@papasmurf , how can you tell when the steering is going out? My steering hasn't been right since this year's T2S. Don't know if steering is going, or its just harder due to my 37s.

 

It's harder to turn because of 37s

 

It's more than just a little harder to steer. Whining and groaning when turning. I basically need to be in motion for the steering to feel normal.

 

normal.

 

When we get them leaking at the shop we replace the rack and pump flush the lines and fill it with ws trans fluid and never have a problem again

 

@matthew1992ya so I was just told my steering rack is leaking. They said it would be $2800 to replace. How long can I ride like that? Is this something I should have taken care of right away?

 

Hey all,

I was hoping my second post on this forum would be a new member intro, but due to a blown steering rack, this will have to do. Last week I had my 2010 DC down at Toytec for new 295/70-18s and had them install their new 2.0 Aluma series coilovers with 1.5 block and shocks in the rear. I am was very happy with how it turned out, until Sat. when the steering rack blew out.

I have some questions about a replacement .

• Is a new, OEM (latest revision) unit a better solution to a remanufactured unit with a lifetime warranty? I am less concerned about cost, I just don't want to have to do this again.
• Is it advisable to replace the tie rod ends as well?

I am debating on doing this myself as I am pretty handy, I recently replaced the CV axle needle bearing in the front diff with the ECGS part. I have some question about the latest procedure posted by OsidePunker. Apologies if some of these seem remedial, I still need to have the trunk towed down from our cabin, so I don't have a visual reference for some of these.

• lock steering wheel
  • Assuming this just means turning off the ignition and turning the wheel until it locks?
• unbolt ball joint cradles from spindles
  • Is this where the spindle bolts to the UCA?
• disconnect inner tie rods from rack
  • Is there write up for this procedure? Any special tools required? Does this require removing the boot?
  • Is this video an accurate representation of what is required? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwnL59AbYIg
• spin each tire and draw a line on the tread
• measure the distance on the front face of the tire (track width) and compare to the distance on the rear face of the tires
  • Measure to where?

Thanks for any assistance,

Mark

 

What up Mark!

I would buy a new factory oem rack from Toyota. the one I installed last year has been working fine.

Yes, unbolt the bottom of the spindle from the ball joint cradle. There are two large bolts, 22mm heads I believe, or maybe 24mm cant remember.

You dont disconnect the inner tie rods from the rack. A new oem rack will come with new inner tie rods. You disconnect the outer tie rods from the inner. Super easy

Dont worry about replacing tie rods unless yours have play in them

Just run the seat belt through the steering wheel so you can make sure it doesn't get turned by accident.

For the toe alignment, just google diy wheel alignment and you'll understand what Im talking about. You draw a line on the wheel by spinning the wheel and holding a marker to the tread. Then just measure the width between the wheels and compare the width between the fronts of the tires and the rears of the tires.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

 

@osidepunker

Thanks for the response. I have a OEM rack on order.

Another question I have is if you drained the differential before dropping it, or just left what didn't drain after pulling the axles in there?

Also, since I am dense, just want to make sure, you are able to remove the rack with the inner tie rods still attached?

 

If you are careful you wont lose much fluid when you pull the diff. Just full it like normal to replace what you lost. Or, if its time, you can do a drain and fill. Depends on if you want to spend the money on fluid and how old the fluid is

Yes, the rack will come right out with the inners attached. Lots of room when you pull the diff. Slide it to the passenger side, then pull the drivers side to the rear of the truck and it'll come right out