Need advice on purchasing a buffer and compund . . . .

Currently own a 2011 Tundra, its navy blue metallic, it looks good from 5 feet away, but when you get up on it you notice all the swirls in the paint. The hood has a bunch of "trash" as I call it in the clear coat that you don't see unless you look at it at just the right angle.

I'm pretty familiar with how to wash a car without getting swirls in the paint, I used to detail cars back in high school(key to not getting swirls is never use an automatic car wash, which I am guilty of doing) IE make sure you use two buckets, one for wheels/lower body/inner fenders, the other for the rest of the body. Use clean microfiber waffle weave towels to dry.

I can put a nice coat of hand applied Meguairs filler wax on this truck and get it looking decent, but I want to go to the next level and get this paint back into shape.

Never had much experience with the buffing machine, I know I want one of those machines that doesn't spin too fast. I know if you get a straight up orbital buffer that looks like a right angle drill, those things can spin so fast you can burn the clear coat off.

Recommendations on where to shop, what to buy, would be much appreciated. Shots of the paint will come in the next couple days.

 

Best polisher you can get without spending several hundred bucks is the Griots G9.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/produc...MIhOLCyo-e5QIVCtvACh3oMA0rEAQYASABEgL3w_D_BwE

Of course, you’ll have to get pads in addition to the polisher. Autogeek has a kit that comes with a few, and it’s not a bad deal. If buying pads separately, Lake Country is generally considered to be one of the best brands.

There are plenty of good polishes and compounds out there, but I would recommend Carpro Clear Cut and Essence first. That’s what I’ve had the best results with.

@Pudge has more hands on experience than I do, but I think he would recommend the same products.

One step I would highly recommend adding is paint decontamination. Just doing that will restore a lot of gloss to your finish, and it’s recommended to do so before paint correction anyway. It makes the process a lot easier.

If you aren’t familiar with paint decontamination, it’s the process of removing metal and other contaminants from your paint. Even a brand new vehicle needs it done, so your 2011 could certainly benefit from it. First step is chemical decontamination, using Carpro Iron X or Optimum Ferrex. (There are other brands, but I know both of these work very well.

Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer

$23 CARPRO IronX Iron Remover: Stops Rust Spots and Pre-Mature Failure of The Clear Coat, Iron Contaminant Removal - 500mL with Sprayer (17oz)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LOAPDbSGZEX7Q

The next step is physical decon, using a clay bar or clay mitt. I use the Nanoskin mitt, which works much faster than traditional clay, and is reusable.

Nanoskin (AS-016) AutoScrub Fine Grade Wash Mitt

$44 Nanoskin AUTOSCRUB Fine Grade Wash Mitt,Weft Knitted Microfiber [AS-016] Blue, 6" x 8.7"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOS0LH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QPAPDbZY757MY

Once you do that, you’ve already improved your finish quite a bit. It really makes a huge difference.

 

Above post is all that is needed.
You cant screw up with that buffer.

 

You're thinking of a rotary buffer. A rotary buffer just rotates, typically with a large pad to remove paint imperfections, and at adjustable, but relatively high speeds. Rotary buffers, electric drills, or other power tools with pads will definitely burn your paint down to primer when used by an inexperienced person that dwells too long in one spot, or attempts to directly polish a sharp body edge.

In my experience, it is nearly impossible to burn your paint with an orbital (sometimes called "random orbital") polisher. Instead of just rotating around the main polisher shaft, the pad is also moving on a eccentric, causing it to "orbit" in a very small circular path as it turns around on the big circular path.

 

This is great info and pretty much exactly what I would recommend as well. Decon first then polish with the G9, lake country pads, and carpro products. Carpro also makes a 2 in 1 compound/polish that is supposed to work really well, I believe it's called reflect. I haven't tried it and probably won't because I am stocked up on clear cut and essence.
Other compound/polish I can recommend from use is meguiars M105 and M205, they work very well and might be cheaper than carpro but create more dust and are a little tougher to work with but still very good and relevant in the detailing world