RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Truck is looking awesome Casey!

Thanks man, I appreciate it!

 

This isn’t easy for sure...I can’t remember off the top of my head how I pulled it off but if I get time this weekend I’ll take it apart and trace my steps for ya...I’ll throw some pics up for ya as well

 

Awesome, thanks Patrick. I'm debating whether I need to do a full tear down to get that center console surround back out just to figure out where/how to find a path through there. That's the only thing stopping me from completing a couple of things.

 

No prob!...I’ve ran so many darn wires in this truck I can’t even remember what it was for, but it was def a pain in the butt...lol...I think it was for my anytime backup camera, running the wires from the back of head unit down behind all that stuff and then to the switch (I have switch by my shifter)...I’ll keep ya posted, hopefully I have time to tear it down and take a look

 

Updated my 4x4 shift knob trim to the MESO Customs black trim ring (retains the factory rubber grip part).
I also swapped the AJT trim on my AC controls from red to black.

 

For you, and anyone else that is following this thread looking for details on the media/CarPlay port relocate, I did get that finished today. The original post is updated here:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-trd-pro-build.77317/page-6#post-2038892

I did find a route today, though I can see it getting choked up pretty quick if I started trying to get too much into the console area, so I’d love to see if you did something different or if this is pretty much the way to run (see post linked above for how I routed). Thanks again!

 

Also made a little more progress on adding a switch to the bed light setup.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-trd-pro-build.77317/page-6#post-2038862

 

Great job man, nice and clean!...that’s basically what I did as well, I think that’s really the only option...I’ll post some pics but I popped the wiring (it was for my anytime camera switch) out the side of the center console area, ran it along the lower leg panel (by drivers right leg), and up into shifter area...it’s a pain in the butt, but obviously doable...awesome work on the install, you have me just about ready to pull the trigger on that wireless CarPlay!

 

Had ordered some

AUXITO 7440 7443 LED Bulb Amber Yellow with Projector Lens 7444 T20 W21W 7443NA LED Bulbs for Turn Signal Bulbs Blinker Lights

Auxito LED Amber Yellow 7444 bulbs a while back for my front turn signals. Got them installed real quick this afternoon. I didn't even have to move the battery or the washer fluid reservoir (though it was a tight squeeze to get in there and turn the bulbs). THEY DO NOT HYPERFLASH! Every turn signal bulb I ever tried on my 2008 would hyperflash (without spending VLED prices) and I just didn't want to chop into lightbulb wires for a resistor. So I'm glad these ones don't.

I'm also happy with the output - it a bit brighter than the stock incandescent bulbs, and hopefully will last as long as the truck!

 

After a couple prototypes and a bit of trial and error, I made a couple of dividers for the non-safe side of my Amazon half-safe console. The safe I have has metal on both sides of the non-locked opening, so I opted to make the dividers a three-piece affair with some magnets to make the whole thing adjust/adapt to the tapered side wall, and then printed it on a 3D printer.

I made two slotted end pieces that have three depressions in each to epoxy in some

Nexlevl Super Mini Fridge Magnets 1/4" x 1/16", 25 Very Tiny Round Craft Magnets, Perfect Small Refrigerator Magnets, Crafts, DIY Projects, Magnetic Whiteboards, Stronger Than The Silver Magnets

very small magnets.
Then, I made a center piece that is just thick enough to have a snug but not super tight fit to the slots in each end piece. It has a tapered end on one side to account for the taper in the console wall.


Then, simply stick the end pieces to the steel side walls, and slip the divider into the slots and adjust to where I want them. They aren't crazy strong, but they provide enough resistance to keep things where I want them and keep the stuff that I store in the console separated.




STL files attached too. You need one "Driver Divider" and two "Frame Side" per divider. I printed them in PLA using basic draft settings (figured it's inside the console, not out in the direct sunlight). I did use support for the holes for the magnets.

A guy could also just print the two frame sides and then get a piece of 0.11” plexiglass or ABS and cut it to size as well. That was actually what I had in mind as I was designing it. Or use some 1/4 plywood and just trim the edges to form two tenons.

 

Nice Build Casey!

 

Thanks for updating the info about the plugs. I just ordered everything.

 

Just completed my Front/Rear Anytime Camera install. I have the "Full Kit - Premium Camera" one. I plan on mounting it in a YotaLED mounting bracket.
There has been a lot of trial-fit, revise, trial-fit again, revise, etc. in getting this done to the level that I like my stuff to be.

Here is the wiring diagram (borrowed from the AnytimeCamera site and modified to show my installation).


First order of business was to take the loose leads and make them into a single plug-n-play harness.
8-Pin Male Terminal Connector (circled below)
Male Terminals (20-22 AWG)

Order extra terminals in case you mess some up.

The camera lead has the terminal pin on it, but isn’t clipped in yet so I can run it through the fire wall (edit - I changed this during installation and ended up adding a green lead from the connector, and then connecting that lead to the red camera harness wires with a crimp spade connector pair).


Next I’ve gotta get some more wire so I can take the switch leads and extend them to make up the other side. I plan on making it long enough to eventually put the switch behind the shifter. That harness will join the camera power lead with the relay green, and will also have the ground lead. At least that’s my plan... (updated - the wiring diagram above reflects this)

Update 1/17/21:
I ordered some spools of

$31 BNTECHGO 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Kit 10 Color Each 30 ft Flexible 20 AWG Stranded Tinned Copper Wire

different colored 20AWG wire off Amazon to finish up the wiring harness. This stuff is super flexible, which is nice except for trying to push it into the connectors once I’ve attached terminals to it.

I’m also using:
8-Pin Female Terminal Connector (mates with the above male terminal connector)
Female Terminals for this connector (20-24 AWG)

Anyway, I managed to get the mating harness made up to go from the switch to the connector I made up for behind the radio. After soldering all of the leads (I made them 3 feet long), I wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape. I also tied together the terminals for the green wires (power from the relay) and the camera wire in this harness, and also tied an extra black wire to take the ground back out to the body ground point in the passenger footwell.


I also tried to get thing installed today, and managed to half-ass get the interior stuff done, but I need to tear it back apart and make some adjustments to be able to actually hook up the button. And I need to get the wiring out to the engine compartment done and actually mount the camera. I did test-fit the camera on the YotaLED blank, and found that it won’t work as-is. The hole is centered in the blank, but the camera has the stud offset to the top and that makes it clash with the grill. So I’m looking at some options there, but think that I want to get it all hooked up and test out placement before committing to modifying the bracket. I might also look at using a different camera altogether...

I am going to use the routing that @2020Platinum shows in his video for this install (running out through the passenger firewall grommet).

Update 1/19/21:
Wrapped up the interior install tonight.

Tucked the relay up behind the radio and stuck it to the white plastic wire harness cover back there with some 3M tape.


I decided to extend the short red wire pigtail off the RCA connector for the front camera (per the diagram above). This gave me enough slack to move the connectors down to behind the lower panel for better access and to give a bit more slack on the other end where it connects to the button (connector is behind the cross-bar).


Then fish the lower wire harness through the console area and plug it into the switch from my home-made switch mount.


Put everything back together and confirmed the anytime function was worked as desired for the rear camera. Now to get the front camera routed and mounted!

Update 1/21/21:
Two steps forward, one step back...
The past couple days I’ve been playing around with how to use the YotaLED plate, shim the camera out to clear the grill below it, and still actually attach the thing to the grill (the YotaLED plate uses a fender washer and the original nut to “sandwich” the whole setup to the grill).

Here you can get an idea of the interference I am talking about, and can see one of the prototype shims I was making.


After first getting the profile of the shim close (it’s not perfect, but good enough) to match the camera body, I started working on getting the offset and the shape right to try and fill up the entire space from the bracket to the camera. It’s not perfect, but it’s close. I also put a small bump in the side that attaches to the bracket because it has a bigger hole than the camera stud, and this lets me push the camera to the top of that hole as much as possible.

I’ve also discovered that the YotaLED plates sold now will require you to open the hole up to 7/16” for the shim I made.


The problem here is now the stud on the camera is only long enough to hold the camera and shim to the YotaLED plate. So I needed to come up with a new way to mount the plate to the grill. So, I started looking at using two screws - one on other side of the camera, to clamp the rear washer to the front plate similar to how the original design for the YotaLED plate was. But the original washer was a 3/8 x 1-1/2” fender washer and not wide enough for screws to be on either side of the camera. So back to the local Parkrose Hardware for some more stuff...

• 1/2” x 2” stainless fender washer
• (2) #10-24 x 1-1/4” black oxide button head cap screws (turns out 1” will be long enough, so I now have #10-32 x 1” long black oxide stainless screws on order)
• (2) stainless #10 flat washers
• (2) stainless #10-24 nylock nuts (swapping out for #10-32 when the new screws arrive)

Then do a little layout work and a little drilling (3/16” holes in the front plate, and 1/4” holes in the washer).


Here it is mocked up.


I mounted the camera tonight (it’s not easy getting your hand in behind the grill either through the access panel or the hood latch opening). I lost one of my little washers (and didn’t buy extras) - I think it dropped down to somewhere on top of my skid plate. I almost lost a screw. It was dark. I cursed frequently, but I finally got it all mounted up.




Here’s where I hit the step back...
I temporary connected the ground wire for the camera and plugged it in. I clipped the necessary wires for horizontal mounting, non-mirrored, and no lines. I jumped in the truck, turned it on, and flipped the switch to front camera...
And discovered that I need to angle the camera back/up a bit more. I’m seeing the top of the “YO” in the grill and more of the bumper than I want to.


The camera comes with some wedge shims, and I’m sure one of those will work. But in order to get to the nut that anchors the camera, I have to remove the screws (or at least one and loosen the other) holding the washer to the front plate to hold it to the grill. And pull the thing out to fish the wire out of the whole thing to put the wedge shim in and put it all back together.

SO...we’ll be continuing this install again tomorrow.

Update 1/22/21:
Ok, I’ve now got this 99.9% finished. I have some new button head cap screws (#10-32 x 1” long STAINLESS black-oxide finish) on order that won’t be here until next week, so the ones in the pictures below will have to be replaced, but that should be easy enough to do.

So, after last night and seeing that I would have too much “grille” visible, I modified and printed a new shim that was beveled approx 6 degrees (2mm across the 18mm width of the shim). I also stopped, based on the fact that finding stainless black oxide screws in 1” length was limiting me to use #10-32 (fine thread), and picked up some new nylock nuts and some “black chrome” button head cap screws.

I mocked everything up again with my newly printed shim piece, and still didn’t feel like it was quite enough angle, so I ended up also adding one of the rubber wedge shims that came with the camera. At that point, I was getting to where the nut that anchors the camera wasn’t making full contact with the back of the YotaLED plate, so I called it good.

Here is the finished camera mount position and the (temporary) black chrome screws.


Then I worked on routing the camera cable - from the passenger firewall grommet along the wiring harness on the passenger side, up along the wiring harness that runs in front of the radiator, and dropping the camera plug right by where the panel is in the grill to access the radar plug connector.


From there, the red/black wires continue over along the wiring harness toward the battery. The red wire I coiled up and taped off for “just in case” and the black wire I put a 1/4” eye on and mounted to the body ground point next to the battery.


Then, I tied up the wiring from the camera on the back side of the grill so the plug hung below the access panel with enough slack to plug into the other connector.


Then I put the grille back on, and did a final check of the installation and function. The top of the view in the screen is JUST below the bottom of the view you can see in the actual windshield, but I can also still see my license plate frame.


So, the things I need to still wrap up are swapping out the black chrome cap screws with matte black oxide stainless ones when they come in next week.

What I would do differently if I was to do this again is I would make my 3D printed shim to be a 3mm taper instead of 2mm and eliminate the use of the rubber “shim” that came with the camera.

My ONLY other gripe is that the blue in the camera button is not a match for the “baby blue” of all the other interior buttons...but I can live with that. The function of the anytime rear camera is a welcome return to something I had in my 2008 (I had wired that one up from scratch back then), and the addition of the front camera is something I always wanted in my 2008.

Update 1/29/21:
Ok - I got the stainless black-oxide cap screws in, and since I needed to pull things off to swap those out, I couldn’t help it but try printing a new shim with more angle to replace the combination of two shims I had.

So, I pulled the grill back off, removed the camera, swapped out the shim, and reinstalled it using the new matte black stainless screws. Here’s the result (and the screen image is the same as what I had before with the two shims).

 

Subscribing to this. I will have to copy a lot of your build on my first truck.

 

How did you locate the button trim panels? Is there a good source for recycled plastic trim?

 

I had to search through used parts websites (car-part.com for instance) looking for 2019+ Tacoma steering wheels, and then use the photos (when posted) to determine which color and condition the wheel was in, and then end up buying a complete wheel (~$250 in decent/good condition). Alternately, you've got to buy the new complete control set from Toyota (about $400).

 

Finished up the bed light installation today.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-trd-pro-build.77317/page-6#post-2038862

 

Factory Tailgate Power Lock kit is installed.
A lot of the details of getting the wiring all loomed up to combine this install with the bed light install is documented in my Factory Bed Light post, so there isn't much need to re-post all of it here.

The parts are:

• $234 PK3B6-34JS0 Genuine Toyota 2019 & Up Tundra Power Tailgate Lock Kit Standard Wheelbase PK3B6-34JS0
  PK3B6-34JS0 - Tailgate Power Lock - Standard Wheelbase (not going to link it, since prices change. I got mine through Sparks).

The instructions that come with the kit are really very straightforward. I made a few tweaks to the routing in the passenger area of the cabin based on the fact I was running the bed light kit with it so I used the routing shown in that installation (on the back side of the foam block). Otherwise, the install just took some time to route under the truck and get it all wire tied to the existing frame harness. The connections in the cab are plug-and-play, and everything the tailgate routed easy too. Verified it's working, and I'm a happy camper.

 

While I had the taillight removed on the driver side for the bed light switch install, I decided to get some of the rear lights swapped out for LEDs:

Reverse lights swapped for

$17 AUXITO Upgraded 7440 7443 LED Bulbs for Reverse Lights T20 7441 7444 LED Replacement Light Kit for Backup Tail Brake Signal Parking DRL Lights, 6000K Xenon White

Auxito 2600 Lumen 7444 bulbs
Brake lights swapped for

$26 AUXITO Brilliant Red 3056 3057 3156 3157 14-SMD 3030 Chipsets LED Bulbs with Projector for Brake Light Tail Light Turn Signal Blinkers, Pack of 2

Auxito Red 3157 bulbs

Now I just need to find some 921 bulbs for the rear blinkers/tail-lights that are CANBUS friendly, and another one for the third brake light.

Sorry, no pictures on this one (yet).

 

I had to pull the console safe out to pop the console loose to route the wiring for the bed lights today, so figured now was a good time to install the GMW Gun Magnet into the safe. I'm not so sure about the whole "slide rack" feature on it...I just keep one in the pipe.

After test fitting it where I wanted it, I drilled the top holes through the front of the safe and tapped them for #8-32 screws. Then I installed the magnet with some black oxide button head cap screws that I had, marked for the other two holes, and drilled and tapped them. One thing that sucks is how all the drill shavings like to stick to the magnet while you're making the holes. I'll put it back in the truck tomorrow and then have to reorganize everything in the console again.

 

NOTE: V2 of this 3-switch panel insert has been released.

OK, so I've been monkeying around with the Anytime camera mod, and also wanting to move my rear window switch, and with the 2021 Start Button changes there aren't many factory options left for putting the switches...the only two blank spots I have are deep under the AC controls and that just isn't gonna work. I know others on here have used a variety of different options to mount switches behind the shifter in the useless little "business card" holder or whatever that spot is. There's even a user on here (Rocfrog) that is selling a 3D printed option...but unfortunately he stopped selling for a while because he was working out some issues with his printer and that was RIGHT before I went to pull the trigger on buying one.

As I've been getting close to finally installing my Anytime camera, the need was getting more urgent. I'd already played around with getting a working switch "socket" made as a template to use for various ideas, so I finally decided it was time to just make my own using the Ultimaker S3 that I have at work.

I started out with my template, along with a file that someone had posted on Thingiverse that was for Carlisle switches in that spot. I then tweaked it to use my socket template and ran a test print. It came out OK, but I noticed there were some things in the original file that weren't quite right... the mounting holes weren't symmetrical, and the shape was slightly off. So I went back to the truck with a caliper and started tinkering and came up with a new test print in PLA that fit perfect.



Sweet...but PLA isn't going to handle a hot car very well. So I then tried running a new one in Ultimaker CPE+ (similar to PETG). It came out good, but just a tad snug on the switches (easy to fix with a little filing). But I wanted to see if I could get it just right, so I went back into Cura and just scaled up the whole thing 1% and re-printed. This time, the fit was just what I was looking for. I did need to first drill out the holes and tap them for the M3 hardware I was going to use.



So, with the function now taken care of, I needed to do something about the printer lines on the surface. So I started with some 220 grit on my reference granite to do the heavy lifting, then switched over to 320 grit wet to finish smoothing them out.



Next came three coats of high-build primer, followed with a light 320 grit wet sand on the reference granite.


Then four coats of Duplicolor Bumper and Trim paint and a few hours of final dry time, and it was time to test fit it into the panel and mark where I needed to cut out.


Then a couple of quick cuts with my oscillating saw, and we were at the point of no return! I'm using M3 x 8mm long button head screws with a washer to attach the panel to my shifter panel. Then, in the top are M3 x 6mm red anodized aluminum socket cap screws threaded in for decoration. If I had more time, I might have sought out some M3 x 20mm red anodized socket cap screws and then just used nuts on the bottom to hold it in, but I already had the red screws for my Tomahawk shifter refinish, and the other screws I was able to buy locally at Parkrose Hardware.


And, here is the finished product. I'll put it back into the truck tomorrow, and hopefully get the Anytime camera installed then too.


Finally, you need to trim the lower part of the console trim along these red lines to make room for the switches.


If you want V2 of this switch blank, check out RainMan Fabrications

 

That turned out really well! I look forward to seeing your front camera mount.

 

I used VLEDS in the 3rd brake light and GTRs in the taillight. They’re really bright, even with med smoke Luxe LightWrap tint applied to the lenses. I mounted the resistors in the cavities behind the taillights.

Comparison photo


GTR


VLEDS

 

Another step in the Chrome Delete - a short piece of 3/8 black heat shrink tubing and a little time with the heat gun.

 

Made progress on my front camera install tonight...but still not done. Hopefully tomorrow. Also have my first service tomorrow (5,108 miles on the truck right now), and meeting with a cerakote guy to get my Tomahawk shifter refinished.

 

How is the video rendering on your screen? 100% clear?
Great job on relocating the switch!

 

I only had it hooked up for a few seconds with a flashlight out in front of the truck to see that I was staring at more bumper and “YO” than I wanted to see. I’m hoping tomorrow afternoon to get the shim in place, get the wiring buttoned up, and actually see how it looks in daylight. I’ll let you know as soon as I do.

 

Good luck!

Would you consider doing more of your printed piece?
Would be a great compromise for some additional lights switches without going the Switch Pro route!

 

Installed by black AJT vent trim rings this afternoon finally. While I didn’t need them to dechrome the vents, I decided to install them to match the shape of the other bits and pieces.

 

Installed a

$22 Screen Protector Compatiple with 2020 2021 Tundra 8" Touch Screen,HD Clear,Scratch-Resistant,Premium Tempered Glass

tempered glass screen protector on the radio/nav unit screen.