RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

I used my old Techstream 10.10.018 and v1.4 cable to make a few customization changes. The software only lets me select model year 2016 as the newest version, but it still shows all of the customization options (including Smart Key system). Unfortunately, I don’t see anywhere to change the time-out duration for idle or remote start, and I don’t see anything to turn off the buzzer if you turn the truck off with your foot on the brake and then jump out...or if you get out with the truck running (and the key in your pocket) and shut the door.

 

I had my first oil change at 5137 miles.
I finished my front camera install today.
I also ordered some 921 bulbs for my taillight blinkers, and for the third brake light bulb.
And I dropped off my Tomahawk shifter for cerakote.

 

Finally installed by Rhino Rack 574 2-board carrier. I need to get another one for the other side (I had bought a 576 4-board carrier, but gave that to my daughter for Christmas because she can't fit two 2-board carriers on her Subaru).

Ready for the mountain tomorrow... even with a “snow in Portland” forecast.

 

Your switch panel came out GREAT!!!

Nick

 

Relocated the rear window switch to the console switch panel. Used an Accessorides extension harness (the one I ordered was a 42”, but now they offer it as a 44” instead). The 42” one JUST reached with enough slack to get the shifter panel in/out.


At this point, I’ve popped the various panels in and out of my truck so many times that I think I spent less than ten minutes on this install.

Update 1/26/21 - I switched positions and turned the windows switch around. It reads upside down, but the position is more natural for opening/closing.


Here’s the I route I ran the harness - you can see the gray braided harness loom in the photos (they did a nice job with this harness).

 

What all can you edit with this software? Does it help with working on programming as well? As far as diagnostics etc and changing issues. p.s. I did not like Lunar Rock when i first saw it. But yours is incredible! Great work, sir.

 

They also have these guards that go on the windows to keep them from scratching the top ! Found on Amazon and I have the same seat cover, works great.

 

Nice - I will check them out.

Anything listed as "dealer customization" in the user manual (section 8) can be done using TechStream. I can also use it to run diagnostics, clear codes, program key fobs and transponders, program TPMS, etc. On my 2008, I could also use it to initialize the brake bleed procedure and I think transmission fluid check procedures and flush procedures. Not sure if this version will do that on my newer truck, of if any systems that weren't on the 2016 (the newest one actually listed in this software) can be calibrated/programmed/initialized (like the BSM and Dynamic Cruise), but I do see the customization settings for things that are not on the the 2016 models (like smart key and auto high beams and such).

 

When I took in the Tomahawk shifter to get cerakoted, I decided to have them do my original steering wheel trim in the same color (Tungsten). This is a little flatter in finish than the “gunmetal” Tacoma steering wheel trim, and this way I’ll have a few pieces that tie in together the same way. The Tungsten is a pretty close match to the brushed metal that surrounds the stereo and AC controls.


I didn’t even bother to pull the battery cable this time. Just pop the two trim pieces at the back side of the steering wheel (one surrounds the cruise control button) and then fully loosen the T30 torx screws. Pop out the airbag/horn assembly and carefully lay it on the top of the steering column.

Two screws removes each “side” of the button controls, and then three screws hold the buttons and the trim together (careful when you pull those screws to not let the buttons all fall apart into pieces).

Picture of the new Tungsten cerakote next to the gunmetal Tacoma trim (in person, the colors are much closer...the gloss makes the gunmetal look darker). The cerakote is just a touch more “textured” than the Tacoma trim as well.


All buttoned back up. Took about 5 minutes this time to swap them back out.

 

Nice little touch over the tail light!

 

My daughter (who got them for me) said, “it looks just like you!”

 

Swapped out the screws on my front camera mount for matte black oxide stainless steel, and replaced the two-shim setup with a single new 3D printed shim.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-7#post-2061039

 

Finally got my Tomahawk shifter replacement finished up.
I had this same type of shift knob on my 2008 Tundra - these were an optional accessory back through about 2010 I believe, and then were discontinued. I didn't realize how much I liked that horizontal grip until I traded it in and started driving with the new TRD shift knob. When I started to look for a replacement, I saw that on eBay they were going for $180 and up...

So I started searching wrecking yards, and ended up finding one attached to a shifter assembly for a 2009. It was hard to see the condition from the wrecked truck photos, but for $75 (for the whole shifter assembly - they wouldn't sell me just the knob), I took a gamble. The leather on it was in bad shape, but the knob was still good (it's a hefty piece of aluminum).

So, I stripped the thing down into the sub-parts. It consists of an aluminum frame, a plastic "half-cylinder" that the leather is glued to, a plastic nut that fits into that cylinder and into the handle (keying the two together and providing the nut for the shifting shaft), and a series of M3x0.5 screws - three on each side that are 6mm long and thread into the aluminum for decoration, and three on each side that are 8mm long and thread into the half cylinder to lock it into place.

Another member on here @Jwood562 had recently done a restoration on the same shifter, and when I reached out to him he was gracious enough to send me the leftover scrap perforated leather he had from that restoration. There's still enough left on the scrap for probably two more of these (it doesn't take much), so I'll pay it forward if someone out there wants it...

So, first step was to get the aluminum refinished. I kicked around a lot of ideas but ultimately settled on having a local gunsmith shop (Brimstone Gunsmithing) cerakote it in Tungsten. The did a great job, turned it around really fast, and were very reasonably priced for doing this and the other trim pieces I had them do.


Next, I ordered up new screws, since the originals were plain stainless but were a bit grimy...and because I wanted to accent with a different color. I originally ordered both

20pcs M3 Screws 7075 Aluminum Alloy Hex Socket Cap Screws Allen Screw Cup Head Hexagon Bolts (8mm, Red)

8mm and

20pcs M3 Screws 7075 Aluminum Alloy Hex Socket Cap Screws Allen Screw Cup Head Hexagon Bolts (6mm, Red)

6mm red screws, but I found that the finish and head size was inconsistent between them. Luckily, the holes where the original 6mm long screws had been were deep enough for 8mm screws. I had to chase them out with an M3x0.5 tap, though, because those threads are really fine and the cerakote was just enough to keep the screws from threaded in easy (plus the screws are aluminum and can strip really easy).

Moving to the leather, this was a bit of a pain. The original leather was super thing - like cardstock thin. The new stuff is ~1/16" thick, and that makes it difficult to get to wrap over the plastic piece and then fit the plastic piece back into the shifter body. I started by using a wide razor scraper and scraping a bunch of the loose grain off the back of the leather. This got me a good way there. Then I took the plastic piece and sanded it on a flat reference plate to remove a little of it on each side until I had enough gap that the new leather would fit down in there. Next up was a spray of contact adhesive on the leather and the plastic insert, and wrapping the leather onto it.


I still had to push and squeeze and tuck a bit with a spudger and a micro screw driver to get everything tucked in (and it's not perfect, but good enough for me). Then put all the screws into the holes and snug them up tight.


Then go install it in the truck!

 

Nice work looks great. I modified my original organizer that i had before the safe.

 

Yep, I had one of those and thought about doing the same. But I didn't want the space split lengthwise down the middle the whole way like that. And I like to tinker.

 

Great build! Thanks for the detailed descriptions and pics. Can’t wait to see what’s next.

 

Very detailed build. Love it so far and sub’d!

 

I’ve got shipping notices on my exterior door handles and my under-hood lights. And I just placed an order for some watertight connectors to make up custom harnesses for my LED rear turn signal resistors. And I placed an order for black interior door handles.
It would be nice to only take the door panels off once to do the interior door handles and the exterior ones (the front smartkey ones require the panel to be removed to get to the wiring harness), but I know I won’t have enough patience to do that.

I also want to paint the silver trim on the doors (at that point there would be no factory silver left), but I need to find something that is close to the color of the Cerakote Tungsten to tie it in better with the steering wheel trim and shift knob. Anyone have any experience with a rattle-can paint that is close to that color? Looks like I may have found a place that claims they can make up custom-mix spray cans, but it isn’t cheap ($20 fee for custom mix).

 

Can’t wait to see the door handles.

 

Me too. They were supposed to be here yesterday, but now FedEx says Monday

 

Color matched door handles are complete!
Originally, I tried to order the Sequoia TRD Pro door handles for the Lunar Rock (called Urban Khaki in Toyota's parts system) - which are part numbers:

• QTY 2 – 69210-0C060-G1 (Front Smart Key)
• QTY 2 – 69210-0C030-G3 (Rear Standard)
• QTY 1 – 69217-0C080-G1 (Front Key Trim Cover)
• QTY 3 – 69217-0C060-G3 (Non-key Trim Cover)

However, when I placed my order with a dealer, they called me back and said that those handles are on an "indefinite nationwide back order" and there was no indication of when, or IF, they could get them.

So I went to Plan B - buy from Sparks and have them color matched. Not cheap, but the first option was also not exactly cheap (would have been about $100 less after shipping).

It took about 1-1/2 weeks for Sparks to ship the handles (they quote ~3 weeks), and then about a week for FedEx to get them from NC to WA and my front door.

Installation on the back doors is very straight forward:

1. Open the door
2. Pop out the little black plug you see in the edge of the door, even with the handle.
3. Use a T30 torx bit to unscrew the screw you see inside that hole. It is captured by a plastic clip to keep it from coming out (or falling down inside the door) when you fully loosen it.
4. Wiggle and pull on the door handle back/trim piece until it pops off.
5. Pull the door handle toward the rear, then pull it like you would to open it and it will hinge out and remove from the door.
6. Use a rag with some alcohol/water mix to clean up the area under the door knobs (they won't get this cleaning again for the rest of their lives)
7. Take the new handle and put some white lithium grease on it in the same spots where the old handle had it. Specifically, there are three contact points on both sides of the front handle hinge, and then there are two "rails" on the rear of the handle. I found that there was enough excess on the old handles to get enough on the new ones using my finger to smear it around...you don't need a ton and I've seen a lot of people not even bother.
8. Insert the hinge (front) of the handled into the front slot, then pivot it down into the rear slot and then push it forward to set it into position.
9. Insert the rear trim piece into place, then tighten back up the T30 screw.
10. Put the black plug back in place.
11. Repeat on the other door.

The front doors are more involved, because we've got the smart key handles. This means we have to actually get to the inside of the door cavity to disconnect and re-connect a wiring harness that goes to the door.
I am going to link another thread on here by @Ckatz53 that has much better instructions (with pictures), but please note that I did not find I needed to actually disconnect the cables and door panel - I was able to leave it hanging (carefully) while doing surgery on the insides of the doors.

Passenger door:

1. Start out with steps 1-4 from the rear doors, because they are the same. But then, you have to pull the interior door panel...
2. Pop off the plastic trim that is behind the interior door handle (using a trim tool). Behind that is a single phillips head screw - remove it.
3. Remove the felt piece from your door grab handle. Under it is a single phillips head screw (different shape than the first) - remove it.
4. There is a round clip near the "sail panel" - push in the middle of it with your phillips screw driver so it pops loose, then remove it with a trim tool.
5. Use your trim tool to pop the sail panel off of the door. Watch for the little white clip that likely will stay in the door - carefully remove it and put it back onto the sail panel. If you have JBL speakers there, you can leave it hang.
6. Use your trim tool, starting at the bottom of the door panel, and pop the clips that hold the panel to the door. Work around the sides until all the clips are loose.
7. Lift up on the panel to lift it off the window frame. there are still plenty of wires and two cables (one for the lock and one for the door handle) that run from the panel to the door. I was able to carefully let the panel hang from all that stuff and be MOSTLY out of my way while continuing.
8. Covering the door is a plastic "seal" held in by black mastic. There are slits in it where the cables route through, but you need a bigger opening to get your hands in and access the wiring. I cut a hole with a pocket knife.
9. Reach in and press up on the underside of the white connector near where the black sheathing comes up from inside the door, then wiggle the door side of the connector (brown sheathing) to unplug it.
10. Work the wiring off the hooks it is routed through so that it is free, paying attention to how it is routed.
11. Follow step 5 from the rear doors to remove the old handle.
12. Follow steps 6-8 from the rear doors, only make sure to feed the new wiring harness through as you insert the hinge of the handle.
13. Route the new wiring harness over/under the hooks like the original was, and plug it into the connector.
14. Tape up the hole you made in the plastic, and then you can re-hang the door panel on the window frame.
15. Follow steps 9-10 from the rear door to finish assembly of the handle. At this point, I tested function of the smart lock/unlock before putting the inside of the door back together.
16. Reinstall the door panel and sail panel by reversing the steps for removal.

IMAGE BORROWED FROM OTHER THREAD - ALL CREDIT TO ORIGINAL POSTER.


The Driver's side is slightly more complicated due to the lock mechanism...but not much.
Basically, when you get the rear trim piece off, it will have the lock cylinder built into it. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to pop the plastic trim from the lock cylinder off, then carefully snap the new color-matched trim onto it instead. When reinstalling the lock cylinder, make sure it engages into the lock mechanism (easy to see if you peak into the door when you have the trim removed). I would also recommend testing using your physical key to ensure the function works after you are done.

Finally, revel in seeing how this truck should have been shipped from the factory!

 

Man that looks so good, great job on the install and the write up

 

TRD Pro Intake Flow Accelerator and Carbon Filter Delete
First off - deleting your carbon filter is altering your factory emissions. I did this on my 2008, and since I had the filter housing opened up to install the airflow accelerator, I figured what the heck. The theory here is just reducing air resistance of this second filter. The purpose of the filter is to absorb any fuel vapor left when the vehicle is off.

The part number for the Air Flow Accelerator is

$27 Toyota Intake Flow Accelerator - PTR03-34079

PTR03-34079
The theory is that the belled shape is more efficient at drawing air into the air box. It is flexible rubber (vs the hard plastic of the stock intake tube) to be able to fit it through the opening in the fender.

Both mods together should improve a little air flow without needing a CAI, and might add a little to the "butt dyno" factor. It's a cheap mod, so why not...

First step is to remove the top of the air box. There are two clips, then it will hinge back. Once off the lower box, remove the MAF plug and unhook the harness from the air box top. Then use a 10mm nut driver to loosen the worm clamp and remove the box top from the engine compartment.


Next, you need a 10mm socket with extensions to loosen the two captured screws that hold the air box down to the engine bay. From there, slide it toward the engine and then remove it.

Fold up the TRD airflow accelerator and stuff it through the opening. It LOOKS like it should register in the opening the way this picture shows it, but it won't work when you put the air box back in because it will be too long.


Getting the old intake tube off the air box takes a little prying with a flat head screwdriver. Then, push it onto the new one until it clips into place, and then work the lip through the opening until the air box lines back up with the original mount locations. Once in position, bolt it back into place.


For the carbon filter delete, jam a screwdriver through the filter near a corner and start popping it lose. It is held in place with plastic welds - to replace it in the future you'll have to buy a new air box top. Once you get a corner up, rip it out. I then took a sharp chisel and shaved off any plastic remnants and bits of fuzz from the filter to ensure nothing would end up in my intake (this is AFTER your engine air filter, so you want this to stay clean).


Drop your air filter back into place, get your air box top installed back onto the intake tube and clamped down, then tighten the worm clamp, reinstall the MAF connector, and connect the harness back to the box top. Take it for a test drive and be amazed at the difference. </sarcasm>

 

OK - finally got my LED rear blinkers and TBL installed. Well, the TBL has been in a couple weeks, but didn't figure it was worth writing up and I still don't actually have a picture because I haven't bothered to have someone press the brake while I took a picture.

Anyway... Those are 921 bulbs, so I ordered some

$21 LASFIT 921 led bulb Red 912 T15 CANBUS Ready Error Free Anti Hyper Flash Upgraded Third Brake Center High Mount Stop Light Bulb for Ram 2019-2020, 2023

LASFIT 921 Red LED bulbs from Amazon
For the rear turn signals, you need to add resistors for these bulbs to work without hyperflash (I double-checked, just to be 100% sure). My Auxito front turn signal bulbs came with a set of 50W 6ohm resistors that I didn't need, so I decided to use them on the backs. But, I didn't want to tap the factory wiring and screw things up, so I took a lead from @pman9003 in this thread and made up a set of wiring harnesses that had the resistors built in.

So, I ordered two each of the following connectors, each with terminals for 16AWG wire with insulation.
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=747
https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1044

Then, I soldered the leads for the resistors to a roughly 12" long piece of 16AWG wire (one red and one black per harness), and then made up the connectors. I kept the resistor close to the male pin connector (which will plug into the factory connector that goes to the light) and then put some red 3M foam tape on the back of the resistors. Finally, I wrapped each in black electrical tape to loom them up but keep them flexible.



Out at the truck, I popped the rear taillight assemblies. Then use a needle nose pliers to press the clip and pull the factory connector off the light bulb socket. Switch out the bulbs, plug the new resistor harness in-line between the factory harness and the bulb socket, and then check each side for polarity. If you get one wrong, flip the bulb around 180 and check again. I got one right, and one wrong on the first try. Put the bulbs back into the housings. Clean off a spot on the inside of the rear fender and stick the resistor to it, then tuck the new wiring and everything into the space while reinstalling the taillights. Done!


As for the third brake light - pull the four screws (don't drop them). Pull the lens off, pull out the old bulb, then install the new. Have someone hit the brake and check it lights up (if not, switch it around 180 and check again), then button it all back up.

I think the only non-LEDs I have now are the little tiny side marker bulbs in the front...and I don't want to have to pull open the front fender liners to get to those, so I'll leave them be for now.

 

The red “TUNDRA” on the bottom of the radio, that’s something you added?

 

Yes. TVD Vinyl sells them.
https://www.tundras.com/posts/2045953

 

Which selections do you choose for these connections? Awesome build thread!

 

Thanks, just ordered some in red for mine! We’re they hard to place?

 

Those selections are to get the right sized terminals and rubber seals based on the wire you use. I used 16AWG wire, so pick the 18-16AWG terminals. As for the second selection, that is the outside diameter of the wire insulation for the seal plug. If you get too small you can’t get the wire through it. Too big and it doesn’t actually make the connector watertight. In my case, my wire was just on the high side of the middle option.


It is also important to note that these are open barrel crimp connections. I would recommend using a decent crimp tool meant for these type of connectors if 1. You don’t want it to look like a third grader crimped them and 2. You think you may be doing more of these in the future. This is the one I use
Hozan P-706 Open Barrel Crimper

$37 Hozan Crimping Tool (For Open Barrel Type Contact) Crimping Pliers Die Part with Steps, Thin Finish AWG #28 - #14 P-706

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TKG11G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DE8PDXZNBM5W8PRG99ET

 

They come with instructions. I’d recommend taking your AC controls into the house and doing them on a counter or table so you can lay the controls flat. They send two sets... which is good. I screwed up one letter on my first set.