Crackhead resurrection

Found it! Just before/after he mentioned this quote, he mentioned was easy enough to swap in a used working tcase also. But I think this was the original reco.

 

Debating ordering cheap motor for 250 or so or OEM for 800 or so... the piece I posted earlier with burnt wires. Can't seem to find aisin on that one.

 

Sadly that’s a part the aftermarket typically never works right

 

They just reuse anything not included in their kit. IE: that brake line holder on the firewall that they completley ruined on mine then got mad when I asked them to fix it.

Mine had some spots missing the paint/Ecoat that I touched up but nothing nearly that bad.

Mine got new tow hooks and bump stops but make sure they gave you 2 new bump stops per side. They only gave me one on each. Made me wish I kept my old tow hooks too and I could have had one hook on each side instead of just the one actual hook.

As far as 4wd check, if truck is in 2wd front driveshaft should spin free even in park with truck off. Believe I remember you checking this before frame replacement and other work and it did not spin free. Might be good to check that again if you haven't. Although if it still doesn't spin free I don't have any diag ideas for ya. I dread the day my 4wd stops working.

 

Finally got out of bed after sleeping for 15 hours... went outside, and replaced all four oxygen sensors with Denso replacements. Before we get to that, a little bit of prefab for the downstream units.





Ran my tap into each sensor holes. The front two were relatively easy. The rearward ones... pretty sure I was actually cutting threads in the jimbob bung holes.



Downstream passenger side.



Downstream driver side.



When I fired crackie up in the tent of pain, I smelled burn off from my anti-sieze. Thought it was normal. Slightly whiter smoke from exhaust.


Burning off the drivers side pipe. You can just barely see smoke emanating from the pipe at the weld in the picture.


Ran to town to fill up with Premium petrol, and give everything a once over.


Last trip odometer reading was 254.9 Mike's on less than a 1/4 tank remaining. Rounded up to 255 for maths.... 12.2 MPG. Same as always.

At the gas station I noticed a pretty steady drip from upfront. Couldn't tell if it was coolant, or ATF but I investigated.


Found my coolant leak. Hard to tell if it's from the oil cooler or the hose... looks kinda like it's run down the hose from the block, and fell off the cooler. Will need to investigate further.

 

Been on the road about 50 miles. Still getting an open loop fault when the transmission temp dips below 115°F. May have to dig in on the FSM to see where it reads temps, and if I can check the sensor for proper readings.

Getting live data from all the Oxygen sensors, and appears to be in specified ranges if memory is serving correctly.

 

New engine air filter.



Wasn't much dirt, and particles in the air box, but vacuumed out anyways.

 

I'm going to guess that sensor is wonky. 115 is unbelievably low for a driving vehicle.

 

Happens at any speed above 25mph it seems. The faster I go the cooler the trans runs... which seems backwards when compared to the V6.

A new one is about $50. I've got one on order as well as a New OEM rear actuator for the 4WD. Also, new plug for those wires on the actuator. Hopefully they'll be here by Friday, and I can get to work on my time between jobs.

I still don't have a clue where the vacuum lines for the front, and rear actuators go.

 

Slow LED conversion...

Center high mount. Burnt through, and in need of replacement. Gah.




Glove box light. Removed holder, and then removed bulb from holder for easier install.





Doors.

 

Just drove up to the chapel reading live data. Scanner shows 140 degrees for the AT fluid.
Hand held infrared thermometer reads 145 degrees on the outside of the sensor.

Not sure if there's another sensor my scanner is reading

 

https://youtu.be/rYSFX9YFSZw

This video is twice as fast as real time. Had open loop. Pulled off the road, and shut er down to clear the fault. Restart, and took off. The data speaks.

 

thats a pretty green fan belt. is that the gates hd version.? badazz

 

never thought I'd hear that

 

Doesn't look like anyone has commented on the rubber line coming off the XFR Case actuator. It's just a drain line. No vacuum...
Trucks looking great!

 

i see ff evidence. sending star log report back to home base..

 

just a vent. if anything gets in there that needed to be drained... well the actuator wont be too happy

 

Thanks!

Now I'm confused, I thought the lines forming out of both XFR case actuators were vacuum tubes. If they are drain lines as you say, why do the lines run upwards towards the engine bay?

If it's a drain, the lowest point is inside the actuator... meaning that's where liquid, and other stuff would pool. Yes?

 

They're vacuum lines, and all they do apparently suck out any residual moisture in the unit. They lines usually fail, and the schmutz that gets inside hastens the failure of the unit. I was able to remove the cover and rebuild mine (after drilling/tapping the cover bolt holes), but...I was able to save mine.

 

They’re breathers for temperature fluctuations. They vent to atmosphere so if you cross water they won’t suck watee in through the seal on the case.

 

This is absolutely true. No vacuum involved at all. Very common misconception by many people. There are vacuum operated actuators on some vehicles, but not ours.

 

Been thinking on transmission temperatures... if the new sensor doesn't fix my wonky readings. I will consider a derale valve like @Professional Hand Model installed on his 2002. Post #280 on the Reinvestment build.

Doing quick, tired-brain thought experiments based on his picture... wouldn't the higher nipple on the cooler be the inlet? Seems to me that it would pump fluid up to let it fall through the channels towards the bottom of the cooler to "collect" letting cool fluid flow out the bottom nipple back to the transmission. Yes? Are my lines reversed or are his???

Derale 15719 Fluid Control Thermostat Kit

Another quick thought experiment... is it possible that reversing my transmission lines would cause my too cool issues? Maybe I hooked one up wrong, or it was already hooked up wrong when I got crackie???

For example, let's say my hot line from the transmission goes into the radiator first, then into the cooler. The now cool return line would go directly to the transmission. Not sure if the temp sensor is on the supply line, or return line. FSM wasn't too clear on that. Maybe the return line comes from the Rad first?

Probing hive mind for thought activities. Any ideas welcome.

 

Sorry I can't remember, what are your temps again? Mine are not too high - 140F to 150F in town, 120 - 130 on the Highway. That is just the "pan" temp from OBDII Fusion. Not 180F like some others report, but I don't tow. Plus it has been cool here. Just trying to figure out if you really have a problem, or if I do. It seems that lower (to a point) is better.

 

My transmission temps are too low for closed loop fuel system so my fuel mileage is God awful.

Idling temps are in the 135 to 145 range. Driving temps are anywhere between 110-130. Once the temp dips below 116 I get a P0125 code.

 

try covering your trans cooler rad just that rad and see if temps go up use a bag over it with cardboard in front of the rad and drive monitor any changes..

my 2000 never droped less than 125-130 degrees after warm up on cold 30 degree days

 

Thanks Noah. By the way, it has been fun to watch the progress of Crackie! I was one of the guys that read all 40 pages, and never even gave you a "like"

 

Lmao! Glad you've enjoyed it! I've enjoyed it too even with all of its frustrations, and now memories already.

I try to bring you all in on as much of the experience as possible. Even the little minutiae.

I honestly could not care less about likes. I just posted that to mess with people.

 

Like a knife to the heart...

 

Steering shaft seal, rear transfer case actuator, and brake clamp thing. Part number: 47371-35300


Transmission temp sensor, and new connectors for the rear xfr case actuator, and temp sensor just in case.


Hopefully, I won't end up like @Darkness...