Starter Replacement 4x4 5.7

I did mine 2 weeks ago when it crapped out in the driveway (230,000 miles). Same thing, click, click …

Had to have the truck to pull a trailer in two days so I bought the starter at the dealership but had to call 3 to find one. Loosen the passengers side mount and jack the engine. I didn’t at first and wasted time. I did not disconnect the coolant lines to the transmission but did take the mount bolts loose on the passengers side valve cover to make them move a little more.

Not as bad a job as I thought it would be. Worst part was it was 40 outside.

 

The 'click' is the plunger not being able to reach the starter contacts anymore, too worn down. Replacing the contacts will solve the problem. I'd get an OEM kit, it can be done without removing starter, just loosening it. Luck.

$7 Solenoid Contact Set Compatible With/Replacement For Nippondenso (Denso) 1.4KW Starters Set of 2

https://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Con...dra+starter+contact+kit,aps,126&sr=8-12-spons

 

I replaced mine a while back. I did it the hard way with shifting the exhaust back because there was just barely not enough room to get it out. If I had to do it again, I'd unbolt the engine and lift it a little.
Hardest part was dealing with the passenger side manifold heat shield. My right hand just doesn't work correctly all the time.

 

X2 on repairing Toyota starters with new contacts. I'd get the plunger piece too

 

Well I didnt read this until this morning.

So here is where I am at, battery disconnected, tire off, jack stand in place. Heat shield 1 is off and heat shield 2 has bolts out.

I cannot get dipstick to come out of pan.

Lookingbfor passenger side engine mount as well.

 

Did you remove the 10mm bolt up by the top suspension mount to the dipstick?? best way I could describe it...

that 2nd heatshield has a 12 or 10mm and is hard to get... and limited space.. I cut that corner cuz I stripped it.. put it back with 2 bolts on, works fine...

I didn't remove the transmission lines, I unbolted them from the top so I could shift them out of the way.

 

Dipstick is out. Water lines disconnected and capped.

What size is engine mount bolt? Found the nut.

Think I just need to remove 2 starter bolts and the mount bolt to get this thing out.

 

Exact conversation about a month ago with someone having this problem. We suggested that he check the solenoid, if getting a click you can test the output voltage on starter side to make certain your switch plates are not burnt. May save you a little time and trouble.

 

Got the lower 14mm out of starter, any tips to get top one out?

 

One of my bolts was pretty tight. You can use a long extension from the bottom but what I did was put a ratcheting wrench on the bolt with the handle down and put the nylon part of a ratchet strap on it thru the wheel well and pulled to break it loose.

 

Ok got starter bolts loose and heat shield off. How do I get the starter out of the hole its in? U was prying it towards the front. I need to do that so I can get to the connectiosn right?

 

This job sucks ass

 

Take the passengers side engine mount nut off. Put a piece of wood under the oil pan and jack the engine until all of the threads disappear on the engine mount stud. Some people take the starter out the bottom but mine came out the fender well above the frame rail.

 

Ok. I got the power cable off the starter, cant access the plug. Will I be able to when I lift ?

 

And what tool did you use to remove that nut on the engine mount?

 

When you get the starter loose from the mount you can move it away from the engine a little and get to the connector thru the fender well.

I just used a wrench for the engine mount nut. It is probably metric but I just used a standard size one. I don’t remember what size, sorry

 

Thanks all. I stopped for the day. Just need to get starter unplugged and nut loose on mount. Picking up on Sunday. Tonight and tomorrow is for Christmas. Merry christmas all.

 

I would avoid any auto part with a life-time warranty, especially if it's difficult to replace. They may honor the warranty without much pushback, but they won't compensate you for the labor to replace the bad part and many parts with lifetime warranties are lower quality parts to begin with.

Just get an OEM starter and be done with it for another 180k miles. That's what I did.

 

Alright. Plug is out on starter, motor lifted to about top of threads on motor mount. How do I rotate this starter out? Do I have to take the metal heat shield off of the inboard side of the exhaust header? So close to getting to put back together!

 

Where I am at.

 

Hahaha!

 

All back together but I have a leaky hose that I removed off the bottom. Are those fitting supposed to be oval vs round?

 

The coolant lines are round. If they are oval you can probably use an adjustable hose clamp with the screw adjustment (I call them worm clamps) to make it round again.

 

Someone did a number on them at one time. I was able to use a worm clamp to get the one to stop dripping.

Hopefully it lasts awhile bc I dont want to be qorking on this truck for at least 6 months after this ordeal.

Thanks everyone. She idled rough after sitting but after a short drive she is back in shape. Looking forward to the srive to qork tomorrow.

 

Let the healing begin.

 

Your Doctor bill will exceed the cost of starter. All done Dealership would have been cheaper.

 

No Dr here mate.

 

About the starter; being a new 09 owner I went looking for bad things about the Tundra before I bought it. The starter was on the list because it's right close to the exhaust manifold and the heat shield helps but not totally. They cook prematurely due to bad design. Also read changing them out is a bear of a job.

 

They do? How long should they last?

 

They don't. There's trucks 200k+ on the original starter.