Sniv Speed Shop - Custom Parts and Design

www.snivspeedshop.com is live!

Pulleys are available for purchase!

Contact: snivspeedshop@gmail.com

Current Offerings:

-Magnuson 1900 (TRD) modular supercharger pulleys
-Magnuson 2650 Pulleys
-Throttle body adapters for Whipple to RCF, and Harrop to GM 90mm
-Remote Tuning with HPT on case by case basis (requires person to have a HPT MPVI tool)

-Custom part design and machining available

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(Older CAD):

 

@reywcms @M3Tundra-JK @HulkSmurf14 @BigAl @Downytide @e30cabrio I don't know who else has Magnuson's or cares lol

 

I'm in

 

I’m f’n in lol Awesome work and presentation layout. My goal is reliable safe boost so thinking 10-12psi and I’ll be happy lol. Is gold anodized an option lol

 

I'm in.

 

I have a good friend with a shop in Florida called SRQ Fabrications and he just got some CNC equipment. Right now he's investigating manufacturing and selling them. The more people that show interest the easier it'll be for him to decide it's a worthwhile effort! I'm also going to see if the hub will swap to other Magnuson systems, for instance if you can run this same setup on a 4Runner or Tacoma that'd be a huge advantage.

 

Can we design a removal/install tool that doesn't need the snout to be removed lol

 

That's actually a good idea I'll look into that. Removal tool is pretty straight forward, just need a puller that will fit in the engine bay. I think there might be one's that already exist that can do that. Installation tool is a bit harder, you could do the bolt method but I thought some Magnuson's don't have the snout threaded (plus using a bolt to pull the hub on has seemed so janky and sketchy to me I've never attempted it on mine). I'm not sure what you would pull on to be able to apply enough compression to press something on. You'd have to grab onto the snout or blower body somehow....

 

If I get a Magnuson I'll be in.

 

I'm in too. I'm surprised that Prospeed hasn't done this. Patent it asap!

 

I hope I’m allowed in this magnuson territory, I just like following along to all things boost related. I was thinking if everyone who was interested split the cost of this bearing cone heater and ship it back and forth it may prove valuable for installing the hub without removing the snout. It concentrates the heat expansion to the inner most portion of the hub/bearing. I use one like this for changing out interference fit bearings in large electric motors for work. For bearings, I leave them on the heater until they measure 150 degrees higher than the shaft temp with an infrared gun, and the bearings slide on like butter no force needed. We are talking bearings that I need a massive puller to remove with a 1/2” impact gun on the drive bolt. I don’t know how much smaller the hub is in relation to the shaft as compared to motor bearings. But it’s just a thought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154997095941?msclkid=cfd023c2fbd81c8f50c7409433551540

 

If you make the tool, I'll buy one, btw, which belt should we use with this?

 

150deg with the 0.663" shaft would be 0.0014" of expansion and my current hub has a 0.001" press fit. How does that thing work exactly? Do you preheat it before installation or how does that funky shape interface the bearing?

 

I'm using any of the 112.4" belts, both Continental and Gates. Here is a link to the post on the general thread where I list belts:

The 112.4" belt is really best for a 2.3" pulley, anything smaller ideally would have a smaller belt or some other modification (like a larger idler pulley) to make up for the belt slack from the smaller pulley. With that said, I currently haven't experienced any (obvious) belt slip with the same 112.4" belt on the 2.0" pulley.

 

It’s really as simple as it looks. It’s just a cone that gets really hot and you set the bearing on the top of it with the cone protruding through the shaft hole. Just turn it on (wouldn’t hurt to preheat if you wanted) and put the bearing on it. Depending on the size it might take 10-30 minutes to heat it up to the desired temp. I just leave it on there and keep taking temps with a good infrared gun on the bearing. When it’s hot enough I grab it with good gloves or a rag and it literally slides onto the shaft effortlessly. Despite it only contacting one little edge of the bearing directly on some smaller applications it still always works, the heat disperses through the bearing.

 

Okay that's what I thought, so it doesn't help with removal, just installation.

 

Looks like a modified hotplate, I wonder how it'd work to warm a bagel or...donut .

 

If you like just the inner hole of your bagels and donuts burned to perfection you will love it. Lol

 

*Insert juvenile warm hole joke here.*

 

Hey guys,

Recently bought a 2007 RCSB 5.7L Tundra with the TRD supercharger a couple months ago and I’m already looking for some more power.

I came across this pulley upgrade from “Quality Superchargers” as another fairly new pulley option, its supposed to be a 58.4mm pulley that equals about the same as a 2.30” pulley and it comes with the installation tool.

Here is the link for the how to video.
https://youtu.be/nirkqmNjPBY

And the link on ebay for the pulley and installation tool.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115458934864

I’m fairly new to these trucks and getting to know them, would the factory TRD tune/calibration be able to handle a smaller supercharger pulley or ~9psi of boost?

 

Welcome! You'll want a retune and maybe even a new fuel pump. The maggy pump is only 10% more flow than factory.

 

That is very cool! I've never seen that one, and that is by far the best puller/installation tool I've ever seen! The TRD tune can probably handle a 2.3 pulley at sea level, but there is a lot of room for improvement. And as Rey said you'll probably want to upgrade fuel pumps eventually. I ran the 2.3 pulley with the TRD tune for a long time, but I was at 5500ft elevation so making about 4psi less than sea level and was using an Aeromotive 340 fuel pump. Even with that, I was recommended to upgrade fuel pumps when I got the truck retuned. I would recommend a different tune and upgrading the pump at the same time as the pulley. You can potentially run the pulley without any changes to anything, but as stated there is evidence that the TRD tune has issues and the fuel pump can't keep up. On top of that I'd recommend an AFR gauge if you don't have one to ensure you don't lean out.

 

@snivilous Checking in for some updates. I know I'm itching to get one lol.

I went through and noted people that are in. Could add it to the first post to keep track of numbers.

1. @M3Tundra-JK
2. @reywcms
3. @Downytide
4. @e30cabrio (tentative)
5. @BigAl

 

For reference from before. Think I'd do 2.1 or 2.2 for my use case. More boost/power but hopefully not too much more heat blasting through the dirt for extended periods


2.0- 13psi
2.1- 11.6psi
2.2-10.3psi
2.3-9psi

 

Add me please @snivilous ; I'd like the 2.2

 

1. @M3Tundra-JK
2. @reywcms
3. @Downytide
4. @e30cabrio (tentative)
5. @BigAl
6. @HulkSmurf14

Good idea M3. I added your names to a list on the first post, if you all can tell me your preferred pulley size if you're seriously interested then we can start narrowing down the first sizes to make. The ZPE 2.3 pulley/hub is $218 so targeting a price around there. On the first post there are predicted boost charts you can use as reference.

Right now I'm thinking a 2.2 and 2.0 option depending on if you live above or below 4000ft elevation. My friend is currently running numbers on manufacturing costs.

 

I'll go with whatever the first batch is. Would probably want 2.2 and 2.0. I don't go down to sea level in this truck, but also don't want to go overkill with a tiny pulley either.

 

Sick yea 2.2 for me then since I'm at sea level basically.

 

How much difference we are going to see between 9psi and 10.3psi? will this call for a octane 93/94 vs octane 91 for tunes? (I can only get 91 up here unless I go near the tracks).

And I assume 750cc injectors with 450lph pump will cover both 9psi and 10.3psi?

 

I live at 5,000ft but once a year go down to near sea level (California) in the summer months...regardless, perfected skinny-pedal use will enable (I hope) safe-guards when closer to the sea level elevations.