TRD Pro Alignment

When will Toyota get the alignment on the Pros corrected? I want new tires but refuse to have them chewed up like the current ones. I’m almost smooth on the outside edge of my fronts. Rotate every 5k. 13k miles total

 

Never. My truck came with alignment issues, including the steering wheel not being centered. What tires are those? The tire overall looks like it has 40k on them.

 

Bring it anywhere but the dealer and have it aligned. Mine is great after going to an aftermarket shop.

 

Specialty shops and even Toyota dealers' own Hunter machines don't have the specs yet. I am told they should be updated soon but you really need someone who knows what they're doing anyway.
I got my pro custom aligned using the TIS alignment specs below and tell the tech to enter them in manually.

Watch the video that Westcott posted:


My shop was able to get a great alignment with the specs. The original camber was at a crazy +0.7

 

Will do. It’s in the range but they said it was ok

 

What’s hitting the shock? Tires?

 

Oh. I remember you told me about this when I picked up a used set.

 

Correction. My DM to Ryan I mistyped the coils were hitting. They’re not hitting. But tire wear is excessive. Might see if a tire shop can get the alignment better. Tires won’t last much past my next oil change. for those who got bigger tires, did the tire shop improve the front tire inward lean?

 

Does it matter that the Pro falkens are low tread depth to begin with ?

 

The Pro Wildpeaks do have low tread to start but I don’t think it effected the wear. I am getting new tires but interested if other Gen3 Pros are better when a tire shop does the alignment rather than Toyota. No sense getting new tires for them to look like this in 10-15k miles

 

It’s probably more difficult to perform alignment on 4x4 versus 2wd. My 2019 dclb 2wd tacoma got Trd Pro shock install without alignment and I drove it for 75k with no tire problem. Paid shop $180 too

 

Yes but I’m was trying to say performing it is more difficult because of the extra drive axle/moving parts.

 

Shouldn't be it's just eccentric bolts, set your camber then adjust/even out your caster and toe then finished.

 

This is good info, but that sheet says the camber to be at 1°. Am I misunderstanding how it is written?

 

Ryan has posted the updated specs from the last correction that Toyota made. That’s what is recommended by Toyota but for me it hasn’t improved my tire wear

 

Thanks @ryanwgregg that clears it up quite a bit.

 

New alignment numbers…

 

What were your before measurements?
Assuming you have a TRD Pro with OEM suspension, I think the FR camber can be lower.
And overall caster can be improved.

For reference, pic below is my Pro after dialing the camber close to 0 and maximizing caster:




I drove that around a bit then got another alignment with negative camber (tuck the wheels in for looks).
So the caster dropped as a result with unnoticeable driving difference:



I find the factory alignment isn't good, you need to do custom alignment especially if you go big tires.
The cam bolts max out on the Pro at around -0.5 camber, and looks like max caster you can dial in there is around 2.9 evened out.
If you want the best overall settings I'd go with the first alignment I posted. Personally I went with more negative camber for looks and I don't off road much.

 

This truck only has 500 miles on it. This was the “best they could do” at Firestone. I always get a lifetime alignment because of this. I too will drive it around some and go back after about 1k miles and have them dial it in again. It is easier to do than to deal with the service folks at Toyota and it is forever and nationwide. But yes, a slight negative camber is ideal. I will get there, just with time.

 

I took my ‘23 Pro for an alignment to a local tire shop recently after I upgraded to 35” tires. Kept the stock Fox shocks suspension. The alignment spec sheet showed green, but the tire shop had difficulty making the steering wheel centered. The wheel is now slightly off centered to the left. Truck doesnt have any extra sway to the left/right, but the steering wheel is driving me nuts.

 

Every time I get new tires I never get an alignment. If it’s drive straight I don’t bother to. Never had uneven wear. Hack my taco got Trd pro shock install without alignment and everything was fine for 75k. You gotta hit something big and fast to throw it off.

 

Sorry for not knowing a lot about alignments. What do you mean by “custom alignment.” Does that mean an alignment shop will adjust to whatever spec you want? I have same outside edge wear pattern as everyone else. I took it in for an alignment at the dealership, assuming their machines had been updated with the latest specs. Here is what they gave me. Based on what others are showing on here, I don’t think they gave me all of the data. But, it shows “current measurements” so I assume that is post-alignment? When people talk about “custom alignments,” I just don’t understand what that is. I figured the shops adjust to specs and that is it. I imagine that if you request something else, they would not honor any warranty.

 

Also, I spoke with the dealership about the tire wear. They told me I would have to call Corporate. I did. They told me that I had to call the tire mfgr. I don’t understand how an alignment spec issue from Toyota would be a problem for the tire mfgr. I escalated to a “Sr. Advocate” who told me the same thing. I guess I will call Falken next, but I think it will be a waste of time.

 

It will be. The tire was low tread depth to begin with. If you get about 20k out of them like some I would just call it a day. They just kicking the tire with you now.

 

Are the latest specs from Toyota the 5/12/2023 revision?

It appears Westcott is suggesting the following for the Front:
L&R Camber .4 or less degrees
L Caster 1.9, R Caster 2.3 (.4 Caster Split)
L Toe .10, R Toe .10

What about the rear Specs?

 

Yes custom means align to your specs. Tell them to get your front camber bolts down to 0, then maximize your caster - they should be able to get it between 3.2 to 3.4, then finally dial in minimal toe and that should be it.

 

Did you notice much of a difference in the drive/ride between the two? I have a shop willing to custom align and trying to decide between your settings.

 

I got my shop to get camber to 0.4, same as wescotts video. I’ll drive for a few hundred miles and decide if I want to get closer to zero. Right now seems fine

 

Is this just a Gen3 issue?? Thread and title did not specify...

 

Copy thanks