New to me 2022 Limited - Slow Build Thread - 089 Wind Chill Pearl

Started this thread, as many others did, so I could track my own progress.

Last Toyota was a 2008 Tundra that I did a number of mods on, and stupidly sold a few years into ownership. Since then, I've had at least 7 or 8 other trucks, and have "accepted" them for what they were; transportation and something to tow a dune buggy with.

I've never had the gumption to modify another vehicle other than that last Tundra, but now that I've owned my 2022 for a month, I'm loving the mods and excited about a truck again.

I purchased my 2022 Crewmax Limited (6.5' bed) while out in Texas for work. Got a great deal on a gently used (18K miles).

I worked a deal with the salesman (I didn't trade anything in) before the sales manager even saw the truck (he told me that later. Could be BS), which worked out well in my favor, as it already had the Retrax Pro XR tonneau cover and Weathertech floor mats installed. I'm not sure how it got listed, but I searched for anything close in price within a 500 mile radius, and everything comparable was about 5K more.

 

Since purchasing, I've added Go Rhino crossbars to the Retrax XR Pro, along with Yakima Bike Carriers (found them gently used on FB marketplace), Tuffskinz letters on Tailgate, blacked out the rear bumper (Sparks), and blacked out the chrome emblems and tailgate handle (again Sparks).

I've purchased a TRD Grill, and Tuffskinz letters for the front cross bar under the grill.

 

As I'm trying to delete the chrome on a budget, I tried to find the best deal I could on the matte black window trim. I ordered the parts listed in the another thread from OEM Genuine Parts. They farmed it to Midlands Toyota out of Columbia, SC. I spent the $277, as the metal chrome isn't as easy to cover as the plastic chrome/silver on my moustache bar is. I was a bit shocked to receive an email from Midlands telling me that they had misquoted the price, and it would be over $400. I returned the email, and finally got them to call me. Turns out that since I put in my VIN (as they requested), they automatically changed the part numbers to send me the original chrome pieces. The first email never mentioned a part number swap. Once I got the second email, we're back on track. It's going to be a couple of weeks though, as my parts will arrive as I'm on vacation with my wife.

 

Now for the fun part. I'm a DIY guy when I can. I want all the chrome/silver gone, but I'm trying to be a baller on a budget. I did buy the black rear bumper inserts and tailgate handle, as I didn't want to spend the crazy money for color match.

I thought maybe a wrap would work for some parts, but it turns out that the wrap is hard to get (I did find a couple of places that people have spoken well of), and it costs more than I planned for. So, Chrome Delete will be my way - DIY.

Now, I'm a novice at painting, but I read, watch videos (I'm a certified U-Tube Mechanic, according to the sticker my wife bought me), and will research the hell out of things before I dive in. I've watched about 50 hours of DIY painting, spray paint use, etc. Just enough to be dangerous.

So here I go. Time to get painting!

I purchased just one can of 089 Wind Chill Pearl from R&E Paint Supply. It was about $46 shipped to the house for an 11 ounce can of aerosol base, and 11 ounce can of the mid coat pearl. Should be enough for me to get started to see how I do. Ultimately, my goal would be to get the door handles, rear bumper inserts, fender flares, tailgate handle, moustache bar, and piece under the grill all color matched.

I would normally be quite nervous about all of this, but when I found a guy selling a TRD grill, he also had stock SR5 fender flares in black (textured, as mine are smooth), another front cross piece (under the grill) and a few other small items that he gave me. I ordered the cheap door handle covers off Amazon, and will paint them once they arrive tomorrow or Friday).

So, the big thing for me is that if I screw up my DIY painting, I have fallback options (keep the black bumper inserts, order the real stuff from Sparks, Bumpershellz, etc.).

My goal here is to do well enough with the small pieces that I get comfortable enough to do my moustache bar myself.

 

I've never done much painting, except for doing the old "Bake the headlights and color match the bezels on them" to my 2008 Tundra (and it came out nice), so as I stated, I've watched hours of You-Tube videos on painting. 2K clear seems to be the final go-to quality check. Not cheap, but neither is the truck. I have it on order, and we'll see how it does.

Here's what I started with:

 

I cleaned the inserts with the Spray Away glass cleaner (all the videos I watched praised it for being an awesome cleaner and leaving no residue). I then tried to use the 600 grit sandpaper to scuff the plastic to allow for proper adhesion. I felt it didn't quite do the job, so I did end up using a 400 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface a bit.

 

Next step is to prime. On this kind of plastic, I would typically use the Krylon Bonding Primer, as it's meant for plastics, whereas the Rust-Oleum self etching primer doesn't mention plastics (metal, fiberglass, etc.). But it's worth a try, since it's what I have on hand. For the bigger stuff, I'll get the Krylon. I've had luck with the Krylon Fusion stuff in the past.



I did put the cardboard at a 30 degree angle to help with spraying (You-Tube tip) and liked it better than when I painted my emblem that I laid flat (that will be shown later).




I sprayed the primer a little thick on the tailgate handle, and it filled in around the "TOYOTA" a bit more than I hoped, but nothing I can't fix.



It says I have to wait 3 to 4 hours before sanding, so that's going to have to wait for tomorrow. Not a big deal, even though I am anxious, since my 2k clear coat isn't arriving for another couple days. My short term goal is to have everything ready to clear at once by the time it arrives.

 

I had high hopes for today, but I re-read the directions on the R&E colormatch sprays, and it stated that the clear coat shouldn't be applied more than 16 hours after the mid-coat (pearl) is applied, so it will have to wait until tomorrow. My 2K clear coat should be here, and I'm excited to get it done.

I did use a 600 grit paper to smooth out the items I primed yesterday, and also went on the search for the Krylon bonding primer. I couldn't find it, but I did find the Rust-Oleum Universal Bonding Primer, and decided to give it a try.



I had a local person offer up their some door handle covers for free, and took them up on their offer. The only issue with them was that the driver's side front handle didn't cover the divet for the key, leaving some of the chrome exposed, but they do cover more of the handle. I had already ordered some handles from Amazon that did cover the divet, but they don't cover the black part of the handle. I couldn't decide which one to paint, so I decided to give them both a coating, and will decide which to put on once I'm done with the painting.

 

I did the 400 grit sanding, and then primed them with the Universal Bond. Depending on when the 2K clear coat arrives tomorrow, I'll finish the process on all the above items, or wait until Friday to get them all done.

I do like the bonding primer, but felt it was a little less smooth. I do like that it's a white color over the grey, as my base coat is the white, and I feel it will be a bit more forgiving.

 

Today has been good. I started by wet-sanding everything with a 600 grit paper and got them pretty smooth. The bonding agent did have a rougher surface than the gray primer, but was very easy to get smooth.


I topped them all with the base coat. As far as coverage goes, the single can of base coat had about 95% of what I wished it would have had. I put on a decent first coat on everything, and a decent second coat on almost everything. I started with the door handles, tailgate handle, and then the bumper covers. The gray on the bumper covers was a bit tougher to cover, and I started running out right as I went for the second coat on the last bumper cover. I was able to get a thin coat on.


Since I'm impatient (and I can always sand it back down and shoot it again when I do the mustache bar), I went ahead and did the pearl coatings. I did a good first and second coat, and the bottle still feels like it has about 1/3 left in it. I'm not going to do a third coat.


Waiting on the 2K high gloss clear now.


Yes, I do know I have overspray on the shop floors, but I've gotten paint on it a few times before, and a little elbow grease should get it right off.

 

It's here! Just got the first coat on. Going for 3 coats on each. Everything I've read or watched says to wait about 10 minutes between coats (minimum). Then it's a matter of letting it dry for 24 hours before polishing. I've done color match mirror covers before (duplicolor, with their clear), but I've never used a 2K clear. I'm wearing a respirator while spraying, and even with my industrial fan sucking air through the shop, I can smell this stuff 40 feet outside the shop. I can see why there are so many warnings. The air from the fan was fine for the base and pearl coat, but wow!

 

And they're done!! 3 coats of clear. Used most of one bottle to do it all. Had a small run on one of the bumper panels, but thankfully it's where it's going to be covered up. Now to wait 24 hours for it to dry, polish them up, and get them on! I'm a DIY kind of guy (may have already mentioned that), but was a bit afraid of trying to paint match, etc. I have a neighbor that's a painter by trade, and he offered to get me a deal somewhere local, but I really wanted to try myself first.

I'm very happy how everything came out, and am pretty stoked at what I saved compared to buying stuff online.

Door Handle Covers from Amazon:

$36 DLOVEG Car Door Handle Cover Compatible for 2022 2023 2024 Toyota Tundra Accessories for Toyota Sequoia 2024 2023 Door Handle Protector for Toyota Tacoma 2024 (Matte Black)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXPBJGHL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details $36

Color Match Base and Pearl from R&E: https://repaintsupply.com/toy-089-wind-chill-tri-coat/ $48

Spray Max Cleaner and tach cloth from FLAP: $10

Sandpaper 400/600 grit $12

Total time for all prep: Cleaning/Sanding/Primer or Bonding agent/Sanding/Spraying: I'd estimate about 4 hours at most, but I piecemealed it out. I did 45 minutes here, 30 minutes there, etc. This isn't including the waits for drying.

So, in total (not regarding the cost of the black bumper covers or tailgate handle that I already installed), I've got just about $100 in everything (I'm not counting the sandpaper, as I actually had a huge stash I bought from a guy on FB Marketplace for super cheap).

Is my work quality what you'd get for spending $416.08 for door handles from Sparks, and the $313.50 color matched bumper kit from them? I seriously doubt it, but I've saved quite a bit of money.

I'd love to have just been able to order all of that, and not have to do the work, but I spent enough on the truck to begin with, and don't have an unlimited budget. I've honestly enjoyed doing this, and can't wait to get the on the truck!

 

Can you send me some pics of your finished truck? Also that Midlands dealer in SC is where I bought my limited truck from this week. Kinda ironic. I appreciate you.

 

I will as soon as I get them installed. Had to let them cure for 24 hours and the heavans opened up today. I wanted to wash it before I installed the new stuff. Should get it done this weekend.

I did put one door handle up against the unwashed truck and the painted ones were brighter than the truck. Hoping it's just due to the dirt.

 

Understand and thanks for your help. I’m working on buying tires and a lift this week: 295/65/r20. Still debating on ready lift and westcott

 

Definitely share pics once you get it all done. I'm trying to decide my path forward with a lift, wheels and tires.

 

Be glad to.. it looks like our trucks are very similar and I have a lot I want to do. I also have to get a bed cover when I get these tires and lift paid for, wife said she’d paid for half the tire cost so I’m good now.. she can’t stand small tires.. I get the tint done Monday.

 

Damn! That's nice of her. Don't ever take that for granted.

I finally installed the door handle covers today. I've been so tempted to re-do them, as they are a shade or two off from factory. I'm a little upset about that, but as I'm not a true perfectionist, decided to roll with it. When you look at the truck from 10 feet away, it looks great. But up close, you can see the difference.



I'm not sure how much that's going to bother me. For the door handles and the bumper inserts, I'm not too concerned. But if I were to paint the moustache bar, it would definitely be noticeable

 

The handles look good and I can’t see the difference in color. I had the windshield tint strip done today but it didn’t look even so he pulled it off and is going to do the whole windshield Wednesday. Couldn’t stand the lines being off. Also ordering tires and lift today. I going with a 2in Readylift SST and 295/60/20 Nitto trail grapes. Hope to have them installed by the end of next week. I’ll send you some pictures soon and yes wife is being real good to me seeing this is my third truck since last August.

 

Thanks! They're not that noticeable from a distance, but up close I can tell. Maybe just because I'm looking for it. I'm going to hunt around for another matching paint, and see if I can get something closer. I'm ordering some automotive paint test shapes to practice on before hitting the moustache. I am confident in my ability to paint it now though.

I thought I was bad with 3 trucks in 2 years, but 3 since August... wowzers. What happened there?

 

I’ve always been a ford guy and gave my youngest son my 2014 F-150 and with not a lot to put down I ordered a STX 4x4. I added tires, lift and leather and then figured out I could probably afford the truck I always wanted, a Raptor. So I found one and traded the 21 for a used 17 Raptor. That went downhill fast.. truck stayed in the shop, so I decided I needed something dependable and everybody said by a Toyota and that’s what my wife drives too, so I traded the Raptor and lost my butt.I really like the Tundra, one of the nicest trucks I’ve ever had..

 

Glad to have you on this side. I've had Ford, Chevy and a 2008 Tundra. Of the Fords and Chevies, I've never been inclined to modify them. Maybe add bars or a tonneau cover. I did a lot to my 2008 Tundra and hated when I sold it. Super happy to be back with the Tundra. Same here, nicest I've ever had.

 

It's been a while, but I finally got some time to get some work done this morning. I travel a lot for work, and found a set of Predator step bars between work and home. They were gently used, and the seller had them for a great price, so I picked them up. I love the look over the stock oval ones.

 

I also finally took the time to get my color matched bumper panels installed. I liked the black ones over the stock silver ones, but I do like the color match much better. Just like the door handles, it's a slight shade off, but unless you're looking for it, you don't see it. It's more obvious in the picture since the rest of the truck is dirty as heck with road grime from the rain.

Black ones will be listed for sale here shortly.

 

Ever since I installed the bed step, I've been unhappy, as in the folded up position, it slightly touches the rear bumper. It's worn the rear bumper cover just a little on the bottom as I've driven, and although nobody will see it, that was unacceptable to me.

I first thought of adding a 1/4" piece of starboard (marine type) in there, but that stuff isn't cheap, and I've got exactly enough to do another project I have in mind, so I went another route.

I found an old tote cover that I had lying around in the shop and sliced it up. Since it's pretty thin, I used 2 pieces to get about a 3/8" spacer. I drilled the 2 holes (second time I got it right) and installed it between the mount and the bed step. I've played with it, and no matter what force I put on it, it doesn't hit the bumper any more.


How it originally sat, where it rubbed:








Final gap. Still looks close, but no matter the pressure I exert on the step, it doesn't rub.

 

Added the AJT Designs oversize cup holders. Saw a few posts about how they won't work with the cup grip, and modified the grip to work with it. Super easy to cut a couple of slots in the side of the AJT holder to allow the Cup Grip to fit down in there. Used a box cutter, and did rude cuts. Would work better with a Dremel and marking the lines, but I didn't want to spend the time messing with it, and since it won't be seen anyway, it didn't matter to me.

 

I also added the AJT Designs Key Fob. Small mod, but I like it.

 

Nice

 

How’s the wind noise with crossbars and or gear over the bed?

We added some roof top bars to wife’s VW for a road trip to FL, substantially louder..

 

I haven't had any issues as it is right now, but I also have some Thule SUP racks, and they make some noise when they're on and unloaded. Easy enough to quickly put on and take off, so I leave them off when I'm not using them. Having it towards the back helps as well.