1st gen tundras! Touch Screen head unit. Who's got what?

Was this a plug n play install?

 

I'm curious how this has held up! I'm currently looking into the Alpine Halo9 or Halo11

 

Still running it with no issues. I have added a AA Wireless module so I no longer have to physically plug in my phone to use Android Auto.

 

That's awesome. The new Halo units have the AA wireless and wired options. I liked one of the Kenwood units allowed the screen to go up/down and cha ge angles but I've always like the Alpine units.

 

Still happy rocking the older Kenwood double din in mine. I've been a Kenwood fanboy for years now. The current unit only has wired AA and I don't drive it enough to justify spending extra for wireless although it is convenient. Have a wireless AA Kenwood in my Ferd and its noice.

 

I love my toto touch scream

 

My ‘02 already had a pioneer avh-x2800bs n it when we bought it.

At first I was thinking I’d change it for a newer one with CarPlay, but after dinking with it a bit, it’s not all that bad…

For us, it sounds ok, and I can use my iPhone with for music. That’s all we need anyway!

yes, I would like a volume button, steering wheel controls, etc…
But for free, it ain’t too bad…

I’m currently attempting to add a backup/rear view camera system…
Having a small issue getting the head unit to switch over for some goofy reason… it’s probably something I’m doing incorrectly for sure…
The head unit says it can, but I just can’t get it to… lol!

 

Almost every camera has a trigger wire to send notice to your head unit the camera is on. Almost every head unit has a camera lead your camera's trigger wire attaches to, or in some cases, like in my later-model, I can use the OEM reverse trigger wire in the dash (I prefer using the camera though). Most folks wire their camera's power to the reverse light feed so it only comes on when in reverse.

If you did all I just described, reply back with details on how you hooked it up, your camera model# and I can look at the Pioneer manual and your camera manual and give you a sanity checklist.

 

Oh, cool! It’s like upper 90’s out there, so it may have to wait for a few days, I’m Uber lazy, lol!!!

 

Here’s the info from the users guide about the rear view cam install…

 

I'm just an hour or two southeast of you, believe me, I get it

 

My cam kit has a red wire at the yellow rca connector,
And a red/black wire for the reverse light attachment…

my confusion is what “triggers” the switch from radio to camera?
The red 12v at the yellow, or the 12v coming from the reverse lights?
Here again m overthinking it, right?

 

Yep, #8 in the middle column is the typical place where people screw up - that's the input from your camera that tells the head unit "hey, kick up the reverse camera feed, I'm on!!" Usually what you'll see in this case is, there's no change in the head unit's screen when in reverse.

The other common place where people screw up is with the power source to the camera itself, either because they use shitty wiring hacks like scotchloks/quicktaps/t-taps/etc. which suck even if installed "correctly", or because they don't tap off a good/appropriate feed. i.e. the camera can't even turn on and give a feed, it's damn sure not going to trigger the head unit, thus ... same symptoms as the last line.

Final common place where folks screw up is not giving the camera a good, paint-free ground source. No good ground = no good power. Once again, same symptom.

Any of the above could be your issue if you're not seeing a change in the head unit. I'm also assuming you plugged in the camera's RCA cable into port #5, not port #9 as labeled in the center.

Tell me which camera kit you bought.

And also, tell me where you're getting power for the camera from. What's the camera's power wire attached to right now?

 

I choose a kit that a Thundra utuber suggested,

$42 Natika WD-011 NATIKA White Backup/Front View Camera - IP69K Waterproof Great Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style White Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (White)

Natika WD-011 on Amazon.

Right now, nothing is hooked up. I tried to temp hookup, but I think that was my failure for sure. IN my mind, a temp connect would make it switch, but I musta missed something.

I did hook the yellow cable into the number 9. I figured port five was for a pioneer cam kit…? So I tried port 9.

for power and ground, I tried the same source as the head unit…
That my have been another mistake…

see, I was trying to make it work, from the front seat, before actually installing in the truck.

I appreciate all your help, and a refreshing attitude about helping a new forum newb with (unknown to y’all skill levels)

Thank You!

 

So… looking back at you reply above, about #8?

could you expand on that a little bit for me?
Use it? How?
Don’t use it? Then what?

Sorry, but I’m confused…

 

#9 in your image above clearly shows it's for F.Camera Input (Front camera). #5 is for R.Camera Input (Rear camera). You need to use #5 but I'll get into that in a minute.

This is my read on it .........

I clicked the link you supplied and read the "Notes" section, since this is a Chinesium model and I can't seem to find hard instructions online, so I'm going with what's there.

Your camera should have 4 basic wires, and 3 wire loops (green, white, purple). Those loops are used to do various stuff, like ... if you cut one loop, it flips the camera picture, just in case you needed to top-mount it, for example. Ignore those for now.

Outside of that, like almost every other camera, you have four wires from there:

• a pair of wires, red and black
• a yellow RCA/video end with another red wire attached

This is the general wire purpose with most automotive cameras:

• The red/black wires are for giving the camera power (red) and ground (black)
• The yellow RCA/video wire end is sending video to the head unit
• The red wire attached to that yellow wire is the 'trigger' wire which, when the camera gets powered up, it uses that wire to tell your head unit "YO! I'm on! Show my video NOW!!"

I see the following note in the camera's scAmazon page - their info DOES NOT apply to your radio. They say the wire is normally PINK and you connect to the red wire next to the yellow RCA/video end, but your had unit instructions above clearly show #8: Reverse Gear Signal Input PURPLE/WHITE

​

So you know the pair of black/red wires need to get power. I recommend tapping off your reverse lights at the rear driver tail light, using (specifically) a Posi-tap. Behind the tail light is a nice water-free area to tap, and Posi-taps are VERY non-invasive and reversible. By tying into the reverse light power/ground, the camera will only turn on when you throw the truck in reverse, otherwise it's off. Less power-on hours are in your best interest for hardware longevity, but some guys like using a constant power source so they can turn on the camera while driving (which is arguably dangerous).

Once power is handled, route the yellow + red wires up to the head unit. And per the instructions:

​

 

PS - if you wanted to do a temporary test, get a standard rectangular 9v battery:

• Attach the yellow camera RCA end to port #5 on your head unit.
• Attach the red wire next to it/coming off that lead to the purple/white wire on the head unit, temporarily tape it over w/electrical tape or fasten with a wire nut (you need to properly secure it with a butt splice or crimp later)
• Turn your key to ON so the radio kicks up. Take the red/black wire pair; wrap the black wire around the LARGE terminal of the 9v battery so you don't need to hold it, then tap its red wire to the small 9v battery terminal

In theory, you should see video.

Note: There are other ways to wire this up! This is just how *I* would do it, and how I have typically done it in the past. EDIT: I did find this image they included in some of their documentation and I've marked it up to fit your situation. Hope it helps. This is the general setup for most cameras. It doesn't include the loop-cutting info, but it's the core wiring.

​

 

Very cool!

I had to go mow, so the evening got away from me!

I’ll give it go tomorrow!!!!

thx so much!

 

ANOTHER UBER LATE backup camera UPDATE:

Sorry, I’m terrible at doing updates. So, shoot me, please! JK

Anyway,, I followed Shifty’s excellent advice and hooked it up properly using his direction!!

FWIW, if your a new person here, as I was recently, PLEASE read all you can, heed the advice given, and pay very close attention to Mr. Shifty.

I’m new in this forum, but I’ve been poking around online forums since the mid 80’s, and believe me, Shifty is freakin awesomeness!!!

I’ve never met him, but I can’t wait until I do!!!

 

Alpine iLX-W670 install:

Thought I would post up about my install as I read through many posts here and got a lot info that helped me out. I think I can help the next guy with a couple things.

Ordered from Crutchfield and this is the kit they put together for my truck:
- Alpine iLX-W670
- Boyo VTK601HD
- Crutchfield Bass Blockers
- Metra 70-8117 Amp Bypass Harness
- Metra 95-8202 Dash Kit (Black) (returned)
- iDatalink Maestro SW Steering Wheel Control Adapter (returned)

Also ordered:
- Alpine bypass from qualitymobilevideo.com
- Scosche TA2158B
-

$16 Anina USB AUX Flush Mount for Toyota, 1M Male to Female Car Dash 3.5mm AUX Extension Cable, Square Port USB Panel Mount Socket Adapter, 12V-30V Panel Mounting Cable for Audio Output & Charging

Anina USB Aux Flush mount for toyota from Amazon

The install didn't go as smooth as I thought it would, I'll get in to that in a minute, but all in all I am pretty happy with the setup. I logged in Crutchfield to buy the W650 and was surprised to find it replaced with the W670 when I saw that the new unit had a 3.5mm aux input I was sold on it. This input allows me to use my very old and trusty Ipod Classic as well as connect a GMRS or Ham radio as an external speaker, even both at the same time with a splitter, which is how I have been rolling in my 97' T100. Its nice cause you have independent volume controls for each, usually with the music at a lower volume then the GMRS so when someone talks it comes in louder. Really nice setup for caravanning.

My first snag in the install was with the steering wheel controls. Crutchfield said I needed the iDatalink Maestro SW Steering Wheel Control Adapter so I went with it. Followed instructions to program it on with the computer, flash it and hooked it up to the stereo with the directions provided. Right off the bat it didn't work, so I went into the settings menu (which you can't do unless your parking brake wire is setup, more on this later) to the Steering Wheel Controls and tried to program each button using the stereo. Doing it this way I was able to set 4 of the 5 buttons on the steering wheel. For some reason as soon as I would try to program the 5th button all the settings would clear.
Obviously a little frustrated because firstly the additional functions (press vs. press and hold) that I thought I was going to get using the Maestro adapter aren't working. Secondly I'm not even able to use all 5 buttons on my steering wheel. So I called Crutchfield, they were no help really and said I would need to wait for a firmware update. I asked the technician why I even needed this adapter if the radio had its own programing function he said it wouldn't work without it.
So I cut out the Maestro adapter and connected the Alpines SWC wires straight to the factory SWC wires.
Tundra . . => . . Alpine
Grey/Red => SWG
LtGreen/Red => SW1
Brown/White => SW2

And. . . surprise, surprise . . . it worked. I went into the SWC programing mode and for some reason I had the same issue with the settings clearing on me when I tried to program all the buttons, but after messing around a little I found a way to work around it. So start programing as many buttons as you can by holding the function you want for 2 sec. and then pushing the button you want on the steering wheel. When you find out how many it will store before it clears, go back and re program as many you could the last time before it cleared. Then exit the settings menu and re-enter the SWC programing menu and then program the next button, then fully exit the settings menu again before going back and doing the next button. I was able to program all my buttons by doing this.

So for the parking break sensor wire. The wire must be grounded, un-grounded, grounded every time the radio is turned on for the some of the setting menus to open up (bluetooth, SWC, AUX video). I bought the bypass chip and it works perfectly, you hook it up to the stereo's Blue remote wire, GND, and the parking brake wire.

The other issue I had was with my backup camera which wouldn't display anything and that thing took a bunch of my time trying to figure out the issue but it ended up just being a bad unit, and worked fine once I replaced it with a new one.

After reading through all the threads on here, I remember @shifty mentioning the gaps above and below the unit with the metra adapter and that maybe the Scosche adapter would work to eliminate these, somebody said they got it and it didn't work for them. It was $8 with a black friday deal so I bought it to see if I could make it work. Well, I can report that it works just fine. I just tried a test fit at first by just sliding it in with the radio and dash already installed and the fit was so tight that I decided not to even use the plastic mounting clips that screw in to the radio mounts. I just used the frame and because it was so tight I used some blue tape to make sure it didn't shift as I pulled out the dash with it installed and then put a few drops of glue on the back side and its solid. The amount of plastic parts they ship with that unit is absurd, I ended up throwing a plastic grocery sized bag full of plastic parts in the recycle bin.





The W670 comes with an additional GPS antenna, not really sure why it needs it as it is getting all the info from your phone, but there is an perfect spot to mount it, there is a platform jutting out attached to the air duct right in the center behind the radio, it almost seems like this little platform was made for this exact reason.





I mounted the mic in the overhead unit. ran the wire down the passenger side A-pillar, worked great.


Backup camera position works perfect as I can just see the top of my bumper from this vantage point. super easy to install.

Installed the 3.5 Aux input and CarPlay USB port in the center console forward switch ports. The product I linked above doesn't fit the perfect as it was made for new gen tundras. It fits width perfect but not in height, so I just centered it and used some black adhesive sealant to fill the small gaps.

 

Very nice write-up. Looks great!

 

There are two main options for steering control adaptation. One is easy and automatic (unless you have Kenwood/JVC head). The other is what you bought which requires pre-programming on a computer.

More info here, in the steering wheel radio controls thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...phone-controls-info-dump.131492/#post-3344432

Which chip did you use? PAC TR-1 is a good one that's under $15.

They try to make the units universal for Toyota, it's cheaper to make one kit that services two dozen make/models with excess plastic than to make different packaging, different support docs etc.

I'd love to see your input with the part number and pics of fitment in this thread! --> https://www.tundras.com/threads/radio-stereo-mounting-kits-for-later-model-gen1-trucks.110711/

Is it possible that's for alternate radio, or ... I saw the ilx507 actually won't do wireless CarPlay unless you attach the antenna? That didn't make sense to me though, but I didn't have time to look into it. I dunno if the W670 supports wireless CarPlay, but if it does ... I may actually upgrade!

My two gripes with the W650:

• Can't change the boot screen, I'd prefer using the Toyota logo at startup, not the Alpine logo (older Alpine units supported this basic feature!)
• No wireless CarPlay.

Props! Super clean install.

Nice! Does the 670 have those annoying ass cones in the reverse image which you can adjust out or turn off? 1st thing I did when I installed my backup camera.[/QUOTE]

 

Not sure, its call the Micro Bypass from QualityMobileVideo.com I saw that the company was close by and wanted it asap so I ordered it from them.

I asked the guy at Crutchfield and he said it give more a accurate position and most aftermarket radios have them. The W670 does not have wireless car play.

I don't think you can change the boot screen on this one, only the background wallpaper

no it doesn't have the cones, I have the lines turned off anyway as the backup camera has its own lines.

 

Taht MicroBypass product is the same I used with mine. They're all effectively the same thing.

Bummer the W670 doesn't have CarPlay. I wondered what actual upgrades are ... I see 670 has way better boot times. On Reddit, I see the following input: "I just bought the W650 and there is no USB on the front. It looks like the W670 is a complete upgrade from the W650 according to Crutchfield ... The W670 has an AUX cable now in the rear which the w650 doesn't. There are more EQ settings on the W670 than the W650, 13 instead of 9. The downside is that there are fewer camera hookups on the W670 than on the W650."

Price is the same on both, $299. There are some 650 left for sale on scAmazon for $269 right now.

This video gives a good side by side comparison, including realtime side by side navigation with both versions powered up. Pretty cool.

But the wired CarPlay is lame.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bzan4tUbKpQ

 

Yeah I watched this review before I bought it and saw that it didn't have the front view camera which is something I may want in the future and figured I could link it into the AUX input because it has video input as well, of course you would have to have the micro bypass on the parking break sensor installed or else the video feed wouldn't work.

For me, I'm not sure how big of a deal not having the Wireless CarPlay is, maybe I'd liked it but, for me I don't even have my Bluetooth turn on, it bugs me when calls come in and automatically goes to the radio when I answer or if I am on a call and get into my car it just re-directs mid-call. I like that if my phone is plugged in it goes to the radio, if its not it doesn't. For sure its a person preference.

 

I keep my phone Bluetooth linked to the radio at all times, so .... it doesn't matter to me either way. I have a USB port setup from rear of radio to my secret compartment, I just don't ever use it. Maybe I need to get off my ass and actually use it?

 

huh? secret compartment . . . do I have one I don't know about?

 

It's a secret. We can't tell you.

 

Depends on what type of center console you have. If you have the heated-seat version with power mirror switch in the center console, the hidden compartment is something you'd need to create. Mine has a pop-out tray for storage as seen in this HOWTO.