The White and Black Goat of the Woods

When you get a chance, can you get me the size specs on this bag? Right now I’m using two separate hose bags for my inflator setup, but it’d be nice to get it all housed in one.

Nice setup!

 

Absolutely! It's 16" in diameter. Also, it's about 4-5" thick, depending on if there's anything in the bag. Maybe for reference, it's small enough to fit in the deep section of a SwingCase when the bag is full and standing up, in case you have a SwingCase. That's where I put mine for storage. A little too big for me to fit in storage under the rear seat. Might be able to fit under the front driver seat, but I have an aftermarket amp there for my subs. I couldn't get it to fit under the front passenger seat due to the factory amp.

 

Cool, I'll see if I can find any hose bags around that size. The ones I'm using are 14" round and 3" deep. Sounds like the one that came with your kit would fit the bill. I don't leave mine in the truck, though. I have a single head coil hose under the back seat for that, and I strap the 4 way kit in the bed when I'm going out. I used to have a SwingCase but swapped in some bed stiffeners and had to ditch it... I should have had the brackets modified like you did. That setup is sweet.

 

Switch Pros 9100 with SDHQ center console mount. Got rid of a bunch of relays and wiring under the hood; much cleaner looking. Kept two switches open for possible front and rear locker options. The off-road flash and strobe functionality, as well as the master switch function, are neat bonuses.





https://youtube.com/shorts/04lObnNiZ44?feature=share

 

Sold the TPFI catalytic shield, and armored up. RCI LCA skids, engine and transmission skids with cat shields, differential skid, and 38-gallon fuel tank skid. Also rear shock mount skids from The Unnamable.

Some pics are after I took the rig into the woods for some playtime, broke in the engine skid proper.

 

Added some molle storage:

 

Well darn... Now I have another thread to watch and oogle at... Nicely done!

 

Thanks...one of the greatest names of all time especially if a Succession or Wolverine fan...Logan!!

 

My father loved his comic books. And I'm totally ok with it lol.

 

Heat tape on "easy" mounting bar that comes with RCI cat shields so it won't move when I have to drop plates for service, security bolts on trans skid, battery bracket, klearz lens for 3rd brake light with VLEDS bulbs:

 

Busy day! I replaced my W'd OEM leaf springs with a set of Alcans at 1.5" lift for 700 lbs., and bought their adjustable shackles and u-bolts too because I'm OCD when it comes to brand names!

Steps I took...I am nowhere near as mechanically inclined as others on this site, but it wasn't hard at all. Perfect example of me being only a part-time shade-tree...this was my first project using my new impact gun...holy schnikes, why haven't I been using one of these my whole life?!?!? Took about 6 hours...yes I'm slow . I probably did a lot that didn't need to be done (like remove the lower shock bolts, some don't do that, even Alcan's install video doesn't remove the lower shock bolt ), but I wanted to be "better safe than sorry". Again, these are just the steps I took...I wouldn't call this a "guide" or anything.
1) First thing I did was unbolt brake line brackets, speedo line brackets, every line bracket I could see that was attached to the axle. Better safe than sorry.
2) Jack up rear end by diff as high as you safely can (don't forget tire chocks) until rear tires are off the ground, remove rear tires, put jack stands under the frame as far back towards the rear as possible, lower truck onto jack stands, then keep lowering jack until you see it come off the diff, then jack the diff back up a little to where it lifts the diff just a tad, to release pressure off the shocks.
3) I did the driver's side first, then the passenger's side. I removed the driver's lower shock bolt. I kept the shock bolt on the passenger's side so I wouldn't get too much axle shift when the driver's leaf spring came off.
4) I then lowered the jack once again to where it came off the diff, then raised it a tad again to get pressure off the leaf springs.
5) Removed u-bolts.
6) Removed front leaf spring bolt.
7) Removed the two shackle bolts, then pulled the leaf spring out.
8) Put the new Alcan leaf spring on my handy Griots Compact Sit-On Creeper and rolled it to as close to the rear axle as possible, then my wife (God bless her ) helped me get the leaf spring on top of the axle on the perch. FUN FACT: Alcan does ship their leaf springs to where you need to pay attention to which spring you put on which side...the Alcan sticker will be closest to the rear shackle, and, the keeper bolt heads (keepers are the brackets that hold the leaf pack together) should be on the inside (so if a bolt happens to come loose, it'll be away from your tire minimizing risk of puncture).
9) Greased up the front leaf spring bolt, installed it, and tightened up good, will torque later.
10) Greased up the two shackle bolts, installed them, and tightened up good, will torque later. I chose the 1/2" setting, so with the 1.5" spring lift, I'll get 2" for a nice rake.
11) Installed the u-bolts, tightened up good, will torque later.
12) Reinstalled the lower shock bolt (had to jack up the diff a little to get the shock back into the mount), tightened up good, will torque later.
13) Repeat process for passenger's side.
14) Put tires back on, raise diff a little to get the jack stands out, lower truck to ground. For my wheels, torqued to 100 ft/lbs.
15) Recommended by Alcan for their shackle bolts, torqued all four to 90 ft/lbs. For the front leaf spring bolt, I've seen so many torque settings for those...Alcan recommended the same, about 90 ft/lbs. Lower shock bolt 66 ft/lbs.
16) Frankly, the toughest part...torquing Alcan's u-bolts to 130 ft/lbs! Torquing 8 nuts to 130 ft/lbs almost killed this old fat guy!!

Pics of the old springs, areas where you remove line brackets, finished product:


And for dessert...installed a little "bling"

 

Ironman 4x4 Raid Front Bumper (write-up https://www.tundras.com/threads/ironman-4x4-bumper-installed.106526/#post-3431032)

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/fs-battery-hold-down-bracket-by-coupe.9946/

 

Ironman 4x4 Raid Rear Bumper (write-up https://www.tundras.com/threads/ironman-4x4-bumper-installed.106526/#post-3439895)

 

I wont be going for aftermarket bumpers, it’s a money thing, but I really like the flush mount led back up lights you mounted in the oem rear bumper. Super clean!

 

Thanks! That was a mod I did early on before I started really getting into modding, so when I had to sawzall the opening in the OEM rear bumper, that definitely was a "measure 1,000 times cut once", ass-puckering experience!

The only issue I had with the Nilight flush mount LED's I installed in the OEM rear bumper was the surround faded to grey pretty quickly, but some Cerakote corrected that. Never had any condensation issues.

 

Removed the IM 4x4 stickers from the bumpers and put these over them:



Also, I made some custom wheel caps for my Icon Vector 5 wheels. First time creating my own vinyl stickers; pretty easy, and I'm happy with the end product. Steps:
1) I bought some cheapo vinyl sticker and laminate sheets and wheel caps from Amazon (links below).
2) Printed the Cthulhu icons on a vinyl sheet, each at 2.625" diameter (ID of the surface of the wheel cap is 2.75", so there's about 1/16" between the outer edge of the sticker and the lip of the cap) and affixed them to the surface of the caps as centered as possible.
3) Laid down the laminate on top and cut with an X-acto blade at the lip, so the laminate goes beyond the edge to the sticker to the lip, sealing the vinyl.

Don't know how long they'll last, especially since the laminate doesn't say it's UV-resistant (description says "LONG PROTECTION"...we'll see ), but again, I am pleased at this first attempt.

$8 HTVRONT Self-Adhesive Laminating Sheets-20 Sheets 9 X 12"es Self Laminating Sheets, No Machine Needed Clear Laminating Sheets

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9WBBTYT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

$10 Premium Printable Vinyl Sticker Paper for Inkjet Printer and Laser - 20 White Matte Sticker Paper Waterproof - Durability Adhesive Paper 8.5 x 11, Fast Dry, Holds Ink Well, Great for Cutting Machines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVMY4478?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

$20 2.9" 75MM Wheel Center Caps, Pack of 4 (Matte Black, Outer 75MM, Inner 73MM)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C494Q2DT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

Finally got ditch lights, purposely made it one of my last lighting mods. CBI Offroad brackets, and a pair of cheapo Nilights I had from years ago when I was using them as backup lights. Will upgrade to DD or other higher-end lights once these start to condensate or die.



Love the output dimming feature on the Switch Pros 9100. Normal:


Dimmed:


Night:

 

5.29 gears and rear Eaton e-locker installed.

 

Happy birthday!

 

I thought you were just quoting Frosty the Snowman, but then checked the homepage.

Happy birthday @Cthulhu!!

 

To remove the ironman emblem did you have to remove the bumper shell? I have the same bumper is why

 

Thanks gentlemen!

 

Nope, it’s just an adhesive tin decal. Bend back a corner of it, pull it off, then scrub off the excess adhesive.

 

Great build @Cthulhu, thanks for sharing!

Was hoping you could clarify for me on the RAS plus Coachbuilder shackles...can they both be run together? Planning out my build for 35's and thinking of 2.5" ish coilover suspension lift front (6112 or Eibach's) and 5160's or Eibach 2R's rear. Rear shocks don't add much lift from what I understand and I may eventually tow so was considering a shackle to start and adding the RAS HD eventually for an additional 1" lift in the rear and to help with squat when I start towing.

Also, did you end up needing to trim factory skids for the +25 offset wheels and 35's? Seems like +25 is the sweet spot for minimal rubbing/trimming but some say 0 offset to avoid the skid and UPC.

 

Looks sweet!

 

I had the +3 shackles and they worked fine with the RAS. Because of the lift with the shackles though I used the thinner disc, so my overall rear lift ended up at about 2.25"; nice rake IMO. I did have to trim the "ears" off the factory skid plate since the tires rubbed on them a little.

 

SABM mod, throttle body coolant bypass, K&N cabin filter, Bull Rings, Yankum lead mount, exterior detail (decon, synth clay, wash, and ceramic wax).