What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah, strong winds vs big truck with big tires and roof rack isn't a good combination. This was down near Palm Springs where all the windmills are. In general, I do not fill up by what the gauge says. I usually start looking to fill up around 200 miles on a tank and no later than 250. I have had my fuel light come on before at around 200 miles though, which averages in the single digits for the entire tank, but that was with very heavy 4-LO use.

 

I had crazy head winds in that area with bad dust, not in cruise control, my rpm’s acted like it was and staying high for almost the whole stretch to keep speed. Also that hill to yucca valley is long and steep

 

Two hands on the wheel otherwise the truck is going where it wants. It's crazy to think how fast the tips of those windmills are moving.

 

They were cooking when I went up, then calm as a cucumber on the way down and out.

 

genius.... love this website!! but then again the oil flying underneath the chassis will help with rust prevention... lol if you have that problem??

 

lol crazy.... my step dad 70's ford with a lift and 460 got the same mileage..... ironically we also owned an olds 88 and I never heard complaints at the pump... still have a fondness for gas station popcorn!! ;-)

 

I was working in HB last week and I'm 93% sure I saw your truck. Don't recall where, somewhere along Yorktown or Goldenwest. You live near the HS?

 

Oooo that’s sweet! I had my black soft topper up last week, i don’t know if that helps haha. Yea I sort of live nearby the high school. There’s a couple shopping centers on goldenwest and a planet fitness I go to regularly.

Mannnn I had my last Tacoma for years and never got spotted, only took a few months for the tundra hahaha

 

Well, FYI, it was the fender holes that gave you away.

 

Oh hahaha, guess I’m better off without fenders flares

 

Okay here goes!! I took advice here and went with it....
Special thanks to Shifty aka (national Tundra heirloom), BFVWRE, BMF4069, KW4Bores for input!!


Needed to flush coolant and many advise against using a cleaning agent and I agree totally in afterthought!! although the distilled water wasn't as distilled as I like... it did leave a very light film of white chalkiness in the old hoses maybe old residue in the cast block?? lol I do know the heater core wanted to cook me out!..... what I did was drain via the petcock about 6 or 7 times and refilled and ran the truck at operating temps to get everything moving around and ran the interior heater also while going through this... left the windows down obviously!!
Then drained Radiator and right side engine block and put new Radiator (also cap) and upper and lower hoses as well as new thermostat... Ran 1.6 gal Toyota 100% strength coolant and then topped off with distilled water!
Then did transmission fluid for a drain and fill and as I backed out the pan bolt... it seemed very reluctant, and I told my friend that it was maybe crossed threaded as I removed it... assumption correct!! literally 1 thread on that bolt.... so now! (slight leak) my thoughts are that the pan may be in good shape to reintroduce a new bolt and have it take??
After I run the new fluid for a bit and maybe top it off once!?! Just want to get a full cycle out of the fluid!
I also did YouTube videos on competent Tap and Die sets and came across a tool guy by 'project Farm' who does extensive reviews on numerous tools! Craftsman rated really well.
So I guess if the original Toyo bolt doesn't take? I'll will just retap it and hope for the best... torque spec is relatively low.... new pan is $210.00 from Toyota!


So thus far I've changed motor oil, rear differential, Transmission drain and fill, Spark Plugs, Fuel filter, Shocks! (Bilstein 5100's), air filter (k&n), Coolant.... just need to change out the LED lights on all four corners, maybe next spring? so far this thing runs like an absolute champ....

Wanted to share to the community..... wealth is knowledge and knowledge is from a multitude of counselors!

 

You may want to grab a coolant tester and make sure your mixture is pretty close to 50/50 just to be safe if it gets cold where you're at.

Can you post a pic of that bolt if you got one? You're saying the bolts threads were messed up or the hole itself was messed up?

Also we both have the Tundra/ES350 combo going. Probably one of the few

 

@FirstGenVol had to replace his pan a few years back. Maybe he can impart some wisdom.

 

Between this and my brakes, you guys are hitting all my triggers.

 

I bought stuff to change my oil.



















For the first time in 2 years…..

 

Got some stock wheels from Craigslist and new Yokohama Geolanders installed. Alignment as well and it drives much better now! Before and after. Also if anybody wants to buy the stock tacoma wheels I’m posting them to Craigslist. Located in Oxnard. Here’s a before and after:

 

C'mon, @Nicklovin, cover your damn holes bro!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHjlM5A1jME​

 

Might be a Shelby County thing. Grew up around the Bagdad and Waddy areas of Shelby County, and that's what my parents called them.

 

Still not as long as you've procrastinated the wheel bearings...

 

The transmission pan only has like 3-4 threads and is easily stripped by overtightening. Several options:
1. Buy a new plug and crush gasket. Use a thread chaser to clean up threads - might hold.
2. Purchase oversized plug and threads might grip
3. Use Timesert plug repair kit - I think these are better for aluminum pans
4. Use self tapping stacked plug. The part that threads into pan is locked in and inner plug used to drain
5. Well a bung onto the pan and screw new plug into that
6. Remove pan and well a nut to the inside. Several here have done that with later gen oil pans.
7. Remove and replace pan with new or used pan.

if you try to remove the pan be very careful and most report breaking or stripping multiple pan bolts. PB Blaster and heat will be you friend as like galvanic corrosion set in. Take your time especially if your truck has ever seen salt.

please post some pics of pan and plug so we can better judge your situation

 

PS - @02TundraIdaho - you might want to take this into a new thread to better follow your progress

 

They’re neck and neck at this point

 

Should be painted green/yellow. Dragging rocks like it was built for it.

 

Well, today today....

I've noticed the last two mornings I backed out of the garage, loud pop on driver's side. Mildly loud yesterday. Then a light triple-pop today when backing out at work, always with the wheels kicked to 11 o'clock. This morning I jumped out after the loud pop and looked eveyrthing over, nothing nothing visible, and nothing felt at all while driving normally. Weird.

LBJ are fine, TRE are fine, links are fine. I felt the SPC UBJ boots when I got home just now, as I had after pumping with grease and the driver's side felt a little "light", despite giving 10-15 solid pumps on install day. Then I remembered, "Wait ... I greased the driver's side last, right? And it was a new tube of grease...."

Stomach drop.

Sure enough, go grab my grease gun, give a few pumps .... dammit, f'n air bubble. FML.

I suspect I've been running the driver's UBJ dry and the passenger side half-dry for the last 100 miles or so. Dammit.

Well, it's all pumped up now. And I'm sick of rubbing, so I pulled my front flaps.

Tagging @itsWarrior because ... pop pop pop.

Oh, and sharing b/c, at the end of the day, I'm human.

 

Better peel that 'shifty approved' sticker off.

 

Oh man, shifty messed up. I gotta screenshot this....

 

* knows everything
** befuddled by grease guns
*** fuel filters are indestructable

 

Great summary! LOL

 

He'll forget more than i'll ever know. Texans insult with love.