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how to completely remove intake manifold??

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by SlowOldMan, Jun 21, 2022.

  1. Jun 21, 2022 at 7:11 AM
    #1
    SlowOldMan

    SlowOldMan [OP] New Member

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    Hello, my first post. P033C code solved after I used electrical tape to close the short in knock sensor wiring harness that was rodent chewed. (also Trac Off, Warning, and 4Lo flashing lights turned off) yea!

    I ordered an OEM Wire harness sensor - 82219-0C020 and plan on installing in near future - but - I need more access for my clumsy old hands to get to.

    My question is how best to remove the intake manifold completely? My temporary fix, the manifold was pivoted on the back side. I was uncomfortable disconnecting the cluster of tubes and wires attached to the back of the manifold next to the firewall.
     
  2. Jun 21, 2022 at 7:20 AM
    #2
    armyoffoo

    armyoffoo Member

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    Cruiserpilot likes this.
  3. Jun 21, 2022 at 9:11 AM
    #3
    SlowOldMan

    SlowOldMan [OP] New Member

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    Thanks Army Off
    This helps, need more. How can I get my big hand into the back to un-clip the wiring loom?

    from the pdf page 11
    Remove the OE intake manifold ...
    i) It is necessary to un-clip the wiring loom at the rear of the manifold before it can be removed.
    ii) Remove the 2x wiring loom clips from the back of the OE manifold. These will be re-used.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2022
  4. Jun 21, 2022 at 9:20 AM
    #4
    armyoffoo

    armyoffoo Member

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    Here is a close-up of the driver's side plug...the tab to release is on the bottom-back and pushes down to release, then slide toward the firewall to remove. I was able to get my paws back there and do it, I'm sure you can too. Another option, is to get a 10mm on that bolt holding the tab to the manifold, but I don't recommend that.

    upload_2022-6-21_11-18-34.jpg
     
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  5. Jun 21, 2022 at 10:01 AM
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    SlowOldMan

    SlowOldMan [OP] New Member

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    Thanks Army Off, I can see getting my hands back there and pushing down to release and sliding toward the firewall to remove. (and reverse to get back on). Once the wire harness arrives, I'll post my success. Do you like/recommend the supercharger? (I doubt I'll invest in this truck, it has 170k on it - but the next one -maybe).
     
  6. Jun 21, 2022 at 10:37 AM
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    armyoffoo

    armyoffoo Member

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    I'm very happy with it, and if you're looking for more power it's worth it in my opinion.
     
  7. Jun 28, 2022 at 5:52 AM
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    SlowOldMan

    SlowOldMan [OP] New Member

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    hello Army off, getting those clips off was a bugger, but doable. Happy to report the new knock sensor wire harness is installed and the Tundra is working perfectly! Thank you for your help
     
    armyoffoo likes this.
  8. Oct 25, 2023 at 4:12 PM
    #8
    dixie600mhz

    dixie600mhz New Member

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    My 2014 just suffered the mouse issue. After buying the replacement harness the fix took about 90 minutes. The hardest part was removing the wiring clips at the back of the manifold. You need to get a small screwdriver under them and pry the middle flap straight down. If you get it just right they come right off.

    https://imgur.com/a/6iUu3Bd

    20231024_200310.jpg
    20231024_203708.jpg
    20231024_204024.jpg
    clips.jpg
     
  9. Mar 18, 2024 at 2:43 PM
    #9
    NotAMechanic

    NotAMechanic New Member

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    Hi all,

    I am clearly not a mechanic. I have gotten the rest of this teardown mostly done, but I cannot get these clips for the life of me. I also have monstrous hands so perhaps that is enough disadvantage. It seems like I need to get something behind the clip into the plastic housing to dislodge it? how small of a screwdriver dixie? spent 2 hrs thus far laying on my engine trying to get this sucker freed. I am truly at a loss as how to even get to this thing, there's no room, and that's the one on the drivers side, passenger side looks even worse. any wisdom or guidance, is greatly appreciated
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2024
  10. Nov 25, 2024 at 10:09 PM
    #10
    93RubyZ

    93RubyZ New Member

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    Thanks for the images and info @armyoffoo and @dixie600mhz! Figuring out how to get those tabs removed was the most time consuming part of this job. I was able to finally get them done. They are hard to get to and hard to see (I used mirrors, camera phone to see where they were and what they looked like. I may not have been able to do this without the help listed above.

    For me, the trick once I found out where they were, what they looked like, and how to release them, was the use of two hands. I couldn't get both hands back there, so I felt for the tab and did my best to pull it out (downward as mentioned) while at the same time pushing the wire harness towards the firewall (also as mentioned). Since I couldn't get both hands there, I pushed the wire harness towards the firewall with a small pry bar. A long screwdriver worked as well.

    The second most difficult thing I had was removing the electrical plug on the harness at the very back of the engine (yes, my situation also was due to mice damage). I couldn't see that part of the wire harness was secured with a small bolt and was the reason I couldn't pull it out. I'm sure it would've been a lot easier to remove had I noticed that and removed the bolt first.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2025
    joseph_womack likes this.
  11. Feb 7, 2025 at 7:13 PM
    #11
    Cruiserpilot

    Cruiserpilot New Member

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    Thanks for the info on this thread. I just had to undo the two bolts on the back of the intake manifold. I have degenerative ligaments in my right shoulder so unable to reach around and push-pry-unclip.
    I will say when it goes back together those clips won’t be.
     

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