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3rd Gen non JBL sound system Upgrade Info

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by MaxPayne3, Jan 23, 2024.

  1. Feb 9, 2024 at 12:08 PM
    #121
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    I used JBL Stadium Club 22S because I already had the Stadium club 6x9 components. The 22S is a 2" midrange specifically designed to be used with the Stadium Club components to make it a 3 way setup. I ended up modifying my old OEM speaker basket to mount mine so your situation will be different. The 3.5" is going to be the closest thing but you will have to probably finagle a way to mount it in. There are some direct fit speakers like the Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6902C that require no adapters to mount but they don't sell the midrange speaker separately. The OEM speaker there is technically a 2 3/4". dash speaker.jpg
     
  2. Feb 14, 2024 at 7:38 AM
    #122
    raylo

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    Well, I mocked up the JL Audio sub out of cardboard and it isn't going to work in the bin with or without cutting the rear panel. It is 21"x14 1/4"x4.75" (6.xx with grille). It might have fit in the bin transversely except that little hump in the front part of the bin pushes it up too high. So, it honestly looks like @KrissyMattAlpha has found the only 10" prefab sub and install method that will work. That JL and similar Alpine shallow sub would *almost* fit using krissymatt's install, except at 14" wide they are just a tad too wide to clear the seatbelt mounts in order to get pushed back behind the panel, whereas the Audison is 13" wide. Another thing I need to look into is whether I have that 6" to 8" behind the rear panel on my double cab that krissymatt says is there on a crew cab.

    Not sure that a custom box with sufficient volume can be fabricated to fit the bin for a sealed sub, which I prefer. This project is on a slow track for me so nothing more to do or report. When and if I am able to remove the rear seat and the back panels I'll have a better idea if I want to go Krissymatts's way or not. The Audison does seem to fit nicely and should be plenty of bass for me.

     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2024
  3. Feb 14, 2024 at 8:09 AM
    #123
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    A custom box or even a prefab will have sufficient volume to fit the bin under the seat, depending on the build you will get between 1.0 and 1.66 cu ft. However it will take up the entire bin. You will be limited to a shallow mount sub, probably less than 3 inches. There's enough space for a couple of 8 or 10 inch subs or one 12 inch sub. I've already got a Hertz MPS 300 S2 12 inch sub that I'm going to put in the bin. Just waiting for some warmer weather so I can lay the fiberglass. I plan on using it downfiring so it will have a corner load effect. It will also be more stealth so when you lift up the seat it will look just like the bin that comes in a Hybrid truck. If you want something prefab there's a few companies out making them in different price ranges and configurations.

    https://www.amazon.com/Under-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Tundra-2022-2023/dp/B0BWTCTV8T

    https://www.amazon.com/DS18-ENS-TUNDRA210LD-Loaded-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0CJ3XVRXS

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/276064595604?chn=ps

    https://www.foxacoustics.com/collec...22-toyota-tundra-crew-max-2-10-vented-sub-box

    https://netaudio.com/product/2022-up-toyota-tundra-crewmax-sub-box-under-seat-box-sealed/
     
    This site contains affiliate links for which the site may be compensated.
    raylo[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Feb 14, 2024 at 8:15 AM
    #124
    raylo

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    Oh, you mean the whole bin, both sides. I was thinking of one side taking up that full bin. The driver's side is bigger, of course. IDK if I want to give up all the bin space. Arrrrgghhh. But those do look like some nice options. That last fiberglass one is killer, but $$.

    Interesting that some say CrewMax and some say also Double cab. Are the bins different? I have double cab.
     
  5. Feb 14, 2024 at 8:25 AM
    #125
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    Can you post a picture of your bin? I've never seen a DC, but from what I gather the under seat bins are supposed to be the same. I am making my own box, can't see spending $1k on a fiberglass box that I can do myself for $200 in materials. Plus I would rather have mine downfiring for better sound and stealth. If you are handy enough, you could probably go for one of the cheaper dual 10" boxes and cut it down to just be on the deeper driver's side and reseal it :notsure:
     
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  6. Feb 14, 2024 at 8:31 AM
    #126
    raylo

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    Here is the bin on my double cab. Note that the surround is not in place... I pulled that off to install the AMP PowerSteps and haven't put it back yet.

    IMG_5262.jpg
     
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  7. Feb 14, 2024 at 9:18 AM
    #127
    raylo

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    @MaxPayne, does this look the same as Crew Cab bin?
     
  8. Feb 14, 2024 at 9:38 AM
    #128
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah that looks like the same as the crew cab
    Yeah looks just like my CC bin
     
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  9. Feb 14, 2024 at 9:45 AM
    #129
    raylo

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    I am also seriously thinking of losing the rear seat since it is essentially useless on a DC. We never put anyone back there... not once since I have owned it... and it is only suitable for very small children anyway... plus it eats up storage volume. Don't need any fancy packout or whatever maybe just a couple of flat hinged lids covered in carpet. Something else to decide when I get around to this audio project and get the seat out.
     
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  10. Feb 14, 2024 at 10:19 AM
    #130
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    Well if you get rid of the seat all together, you will have limitless options. Good thing is if you decide to stick with a single 10 and a shallow mount sub around 500 watts RMS you only need a box for 1 cu ft which is the same space currently under the seat inside the bin so essentially you'd have the entire space that the seat bottoms and backs occupy now for storage
     
  11. Feb 14, 2024 at 10:26 AM
    #131
    raylo

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    Well, if I lost the seat but kept the bin with flat lids that rest on the seat frame I'd still have the same space restrictions... unless I put the sub box in an exposed position on the back wall... which is what I did on my Tacoma Access cab. But I suppose I could also leave the bin out and then yes, there'd be tons of room under the seat frame. I would not cut that out so the seat could be put back in for resale.

    And yes, for me having the seat out of the way makes a double cab so much more useful.

     
  12. Feb 14, 2024 at 10:35 AM
    #132
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    I was thinking a little differently. Like keep the bin, build the box to the dimensions of the bin and then you could build storage boxes or access over the top of the bin. Downfire the sub, it's not like you will need to see or access the sub (unless it blows). You may get a little more space pulling the frame out but you're really just playing a shell game at that point. You're still going to need 1 cu ft of space for the sub, with the frame in and utilizing the bin you're just spreading the space out wider. Plus you'd already have a nice flat surface to start building from or just leave as is. Just some thoughts....
     
  13. Feb 14, 2024 at 10:39 AM
    #133
    raylo

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    I wouldn't want to build up. That would just impinge on the space I recovered by losing the seat. Lots of ways to skin this cat. We'll see...

     
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  14. Feb 14, 2024 at 11:48 AM
    #134
    raylo

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  15. Feb 15, 2024 at 9:43 AM
    #135
    raylo

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    Well, I decided to build myself a sealed box for that JL Audio shallow 10" that will fit in the large side of the bin. I had some 1/2" MDF around so used that for now. Glued and screwed. Depending on how it works out I may redo the box again in 5/8" if needed. This sub needs only ~ 0.5 cu ft and the box I made is close to that. It is 15 1/2" x 12 1/2" x 7" external dimensions. I still need to cut out the hole... 9.625" and get some carpet to glue on. It'll need some feet on the front part because the bin is 9" deep there. Anyway, it's a start...

    IMG_5263.jpg
     
  16. Feb 16, 2024 at 6:51 AM
    #136
    raylo

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    Hey guys, I need a little help with the harnesses. I don't seem to have gotten what I ordered from TT... mistake ordering there?? It seemed pretty straightforward on their web site. Instead of the two 17' branches, 18 ga 4 channel speaker outputs to the aftermarket amp, and 16 ga 4 channel speaker outputs return from the aftermarket amp to head unit all I got was a harness that has the 2 black plugs that look correct but only has two 17' 18 ga purple wires to run to the amp??? It's like this is for sub only?? WTF?
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2024
  17. Feb 16, 2024 at 7:31 AM
    #137
    KrissyMattAlpha

    KrissyMattAlpha New Member

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    Well you need to see if your invoice matches what you ordered. Either you made a mistake or they did. It sounds like they sent you a subwoofer harness.
     
  18. Feb 16, 2024 at 7:50 AM
    #138
    raylo

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  19. Feb 16, 2024 at 7:57 AM
    #139
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    can you post a picture?
     
  20. Feb 16, 2024 at 8:30 AM
    #140
    raylo

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    I just sent them an e-mail and this pic and they are prepping another shipment. Running the harness will be my next step. I'll just run it but not plug it in until i get the amp mounted. This Tundra is my DD and it is winter so this is bit of a slow motion project.

    Amp and sub on the UPS truck from Crutchfield today.

    IMG_5265.jpg
     
  21. Feb 16, 2024 at 8:36 AM
    #141
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah that looks like sub only harness. What amp are you using again? Are you just doing a sub amp or are you doing an amp for your mids and highs as well? It looks like they tied into the rear speakers which have a lower voltage output than the fronts and have already summed the signals which assumes your amp only takes a summed input. :facepalm:
     
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  22. Feb 16, 2024 at 8:39 AM
    #142
    raylo

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    I am doing a 5-channel amp in anticipation of future speaker upgrades. Sub, first, speakers later when I get time.

    Kenwood Excelon XR901-5 Reference Series 5-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield


     
  23. Feb 16, 2024 at 8:42 AM
    #143
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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  24. Feb 16, 2024 at 9:01 AM
    #144
    raylo

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    I thought the package was a little small and light when I got it. Missing a couple pounds of wires. LOL.


     
  25. Feb 16, 2024 at 9:07 AM
    #145
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    I mean if you really wanted to use that harness, you could cut it in half and run 8 pairs of speaker wire but then you'd be powering the speakers in your truck currently with the 5 channel amp. Or you could run 2 sets and tap into (don't cut) the white and grey wires (front speaker outputs) to just get the sub input for now. The other harness they will likely send will already assume you are amplifying the mids and highs and come with 2 sections of wires (inputs and outputs).
     
  26. Feb 16, 2024 at 9:35 AM
    #146
    raylo

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    I fully intend to power the OEM speakers (and the sub) with the new amp. Then all I'll have to do in the future is upgrade the OEM speakers. I am just going to wait for the new harness. The whole point was to make this easier and neater.... and it is already paid for. Besides, it's gonna snow here tomorrow anyway.


     
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  27. Feb 16, 2024 at 9:39 AM
    #147
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    We're supposed to be in the mid to upper 70's this weekend so I may tackle my sub box
     
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  28. Feb 16, 2024 at 9:48 AM
    #148
    raylo

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    Nice, where are you?

     
  29. Feb 16, 2024 at 9:49 AM
    #149
    MaxPayne3

    MaxPayne3 [OP] New Member

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    Phoenix metro
     
  30. Feb 16, 2024 at 3:19 PM
    #150
    raylo

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    Phoenix - America's oven!

    Got my amp and sub... the sub came just as the bare speaker. I have never done one like this since I have always found prefabs that worked. But it surprises me that there is no grille. And there are no terminals to build into the box. I guess I have some more research to do. This sub has dual 4 ohm voice coils, so I plan to wire them in parallel to present 2 ohms to the amp. But I'd like to get some terminals to set into the box rather than make the connections at the speaker and then install the speaker with no way to disconnect w/o removing the speaker again.

    Guess I need something like this:

    Metra Speaker Terminal Round terminal cup with binding post connectors (for do-it-yourself box builders) at Crutchfield

    I also got the specific JL grill. Damn sub should have come with it, IMO.

     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2024

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