Mechanic Misdiagnosis

First off, I think I'm a smart guy in general, but know very little about cars.

I have a 2012 Sequoia with just shy of 200,000 miles. Recently, I noticed a bit of rattling that would come and go. In particular, it would happen when I first started the car and maybe more so in cold weather.

I didn't worry too much at first, but a couple weeks ago the check engine light came on. I scanned the codes and got P0012, P0014, and P0022. I took it to a local mechanic that I've heard good things about. I mentioned the rattling, but didn't emphasize it.

He thought the issue was the variable valve timing solenoid (if I recall the terminology correctly), which does seem like a valid thought. He replaced 4 (both intake and exhaust if I understood correctly) for a total charge just shy of $1000. From what I can tell, that seems a fair price. The main cost was for parts. I believe he used OEM parts, so that sounds reasonable from what little I know.

I picked the car up last night. Unfortunately, the check engine light came back on during my short drive this morning. The same codes showed up.

My gut is that it's the timing chain tensioner. I found a video on this sight that sounds very similar to my rattle. My gut also says this mechanic is a good one and trustworthy. But, now I may be looking at another significant charge on top of the 1000 possibly unnecessary repairs.

What is reasonable for me to expect considering the original misdiagnosis? Is it reasonable to expect a discount on labor or something? Or should I not expect anything?

Is it worth putting more money into fixing it? I have another gut feeling that the transmission will be next. We use it to tow a trailer that's around 6000 lbs and I have to back the trailer up my fairly steep driveway when we park it. On occasion, the transmission gets a bit hot during the process.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

As an update:

I took the car back to the same mechanic. A couple of days later, I was sent a picture of a very twisted oil filter. The mechanic said that the oil pressure had dropped very low while test-driving the car, which led him to the oil filter. So, he replaced the oil filter and did not charge me. I took the car home and it ran beautifully for a few days (of relatively warm weather). The sound was gone and the light wasn't coming back on. Then, that Saturday morning, the sound came back. It disappeared as soon as I put the car in gear. I drove to go skiing and back, stopping on the way for dinner. On the rest of the way home, the light came back on. I still did not hear the rattling. The next morning, the sound was back with a vengeance, so I did not drive the car. That Monday, I took the car back in.

The mechanic had the car for the week, but said the check engine light had gone back off and he couldn't hear any noises he wouldn't expect from a car with so many miles. I picked up the car on Sunday. Monday morning, the sound was back. Monday evening, the light came back on. So...I'm back where I started. Any thoughts? The mechanic has treated me very well, but I seem to be stuck...

I may take the car to the local Toyota dealer, but even the diagnostic alone costs $160...

 

Twisted oil filter? Did he mention if the metal tube that goes in the middle of the oil filter is missing? If that is missing, the oil filter will collapse or deformed when oil pressure builds up.

 

No, he did not mention that. Would that give insight into what is still the problem?

Here is the picture he sent:

 

Looks like middle part collapsed. There should be a perforated metal tube where that hole on the filter will slide into. There’s some threads on that subject in forum. The engine will starve of oil and damaged.

 

https://i.shgcdn.com/8b5fb8f4-ecdf-.../quality/normal/-/resize/1200x/-/stretch/off/

 

I just searched the forum for threads about it. You might be onto something. I'll either give the mechanic a call, or just do an oil change myself and see. Problem is, I haven't changed a car's oil in probably 30 years. I think since before I could even drive! Oh well...YouTube refresher, here I come!

 

Hopefully, this is the final update.

I messaged the mechanic and asked if the metal tube was there when the filter was replaced and whether or not the oil had been changed at the time. He replied, "Yes." I figured I would still change the filter over the weekend, myself, but I had to work. Due to difficulty with transportation, I had to take the Sequoia to work. As I was driving, the oil pressure progressively got lower and lower. I was almost to work, so I finished the drive. The oil pressure was down to about 1/4 of the way up the gauge. I had the car towed back to the mechanic. I checked in with them yesterday. The shop is run by an older gentleman and a younger guy. Talking to the younger guy, he suspected that maybe some oil seals were failing and warned that if they do have to dig into the car and/or replace the timing chain, the cost could get very expensive. I did not want to push the metal tube question again, but I asked if it might be the bypass valve in the filter housing and he said he would take a look at the filter and housing before digging deeper.

A few hours later, I got a call from the guy. Guess what? The metal tube was missing. He picked up a new Toyota filter housing (the plastic version) and now it seems to be running as normal! The noise is gone and check engine light is still off.

So, art64, you hit the nail on the head!

Turns out, I had been texting the older gentleman, so the younger guy was not aware of my question. I believe the younger guy was the one who changed the filter the first time. In any case, they didn't charge me for any labor after the first "repair." I'm not sure that they were going to charge me for the filter housing, either. The younger guy wanted me to drive the car for the weekend and get back to him, but I suggested I go ahead and pay for the housing. I figure that's only fair, despite the first misdiagnosis, and I feel confident that fixed the problem.

Before all this, I had the oil changed at Valvoline. I guess I will be doing all my oil changes from now on. They just cost me about $1100 and very nearly destroyed my engine...

Thanks again, art64!

 

You are welcome. I’m glad I’ve been of help. I do my oil changes as well as I have read some horror stories from owners that have taken their 5.7L equipped vehicles to quick oil change shops or even other shops including some dealerships. This is my 2nd Tundra 5.7L. Just don’t overtorque the filter housing and use good quality socket wrench. I would check first to make sure the filter is not stuck and won’t loosen before you drain the oil from the oil pan. If the filter won’t budge, run the engine until the oil gets hot. Then try loosening it. All you need to do is to break the torque. Once that’s done, let the oil cool and proceed. A metal oil drain pan/bucket helps too. Plastic may get soft and break away from warm/hot oil.

 

The Tundra has a longer metal tube than the Camry’s and others that use the same housing with a short filter. There are several gotchas for mechanics not familiar with Tundras. Oil changes are easy and you can save money and sleep easier doing your own. Get a Motiv filter wrench and drain adaptor as well as a fumoto valve which will make it a lot easier and prevent oil spills when draining the crankcase. Be careful to put the new o-ring on correctly and don’t overtightening the plug or the filter housing. Use 8.5 qts of Costco or Walmart 5W30 every 5K and your engine will be happy.

 

This right here, unless the mechanic bought the kit specifically for Tundras/Sequoias, it is possible that they may have installed the shorter tube. I know the Dorman kit I bought came with three different size tubes, obviously used the long one. I would double check that they installed the proper one, perhaps on the next oil change, it should be almost the length of the filter.