Bed lights out

A year ago the right one was flickering, then went out.
Recently, the left went out.
Was at auto supply store, thought I’d pull one out to test the power supply or the lamp.
Not so easy.
The lamp is hardwired, can’t access the wire terminus.
Auto parts guy said ‘we don’t carry nuttin like that”

 

I just threw 2 of those in the trash, I didn't think anyone would want them.
The first thing I'd do is make sure the circuit has power.
Test the wires with a DDM.
Although if the cargo light has power it should have power unless there is an inline fuse for the bed lights.
They should be tapped into the cargo light circuit.

Pretty sure you'd have to buy an entire OEM kit to replace them and it isn't worth it
You're best bet would replace them with LED strips.

Do you have the bed rail system?
I just swapped my OEM bedlights with a $17 set of lights from Amazon.
Post 90582 in this thread.
What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today? | Page 3020 | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

Although it took a little work and soldering of the wires.
Amazon.com: Ampper White LED Rock Light for Bed Track, 60 LEDs Cargo Pickup Truck Bed Lighting Kit W/Switch Fuse for Truck Bed, Foot Wells, Under Car, Rail Light and More (20 Pcs) : Automotive



@mattgecko makes some nice ones.
You could try contacting him and see if he would just sell you the lights without the relay and stuff since you already have a power source.
Although you will need some extra wire..
Motorcycle LED Headlights - MATT GECKO LEDS

If you like the OEM, you could try something like this.
They say they are brighter than OEM.
You'd just have to splice them to your existing wiring..

Direct Fit LED Truck Bed Lighting Kit w/ Wiring Harness For Toyota Tundra Tacoma | eBay

 

Might be able to find some flush mount 12v clear led about 2.5" long and just mount them over the existing lenses. Maybe drill the wiring hole straight through the existing light and then paint it black with plastic trim paint prior to mounting the new light housing with screws at both ends which will secure it to the current black plastic surround. Then just wire and screw em in. All for like $20 and a few hrs.

 

Before I did the strips I thought about replacing those with these..
Wow, they are 20% off for Memorial Day.
UNIVERSAL LED PUDDLE LIGHT (vleds.com)

Just drill the hole bigger and put plugs where the screws are.
I plugged my holes when I removed mine.



I'm using these for mirror puddle lights.


The only reason it didn't do it was I had one in the front and one in the back.
With my swing case I couldn't put both in the rear corners.
I figured the front one would be too blinding.



Pretty happy with the LED strips I did instead.

 

$32 and an hour (assuming you already have power to the bed.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZLWJZLT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

I think it’s a southeast Toyota accessory, try a southern online dealer.

 

Tundra/Tacoma LED OEM Set Cargo Bed Lighting P/N 00016-34089

 

Here is one for $60, but for $60 there are much better options.

Amazon.com: LED Cargo Bed Lighting Kit for Toyota Tundra Tacoma 2015-2021 Truck Pickup Includes Both Lights with Mounting Bezels and Wire Harness Replace 00016-34187 : Automotive

 

No, try 00016-34187

 

Where is the fuse for the bed lights?

 

My bed lights were an OEM kit, I added them years after I bought the truck..
I would guess it would be the same install as what you have.
There doesn't seem to be a separate fuse for them, they are just tapped into the cargo light circuit.
Pretty sure these are dealer or port installed and not done at the factory.

Here are the instructions so you can see if this is what you have in your truck.
00016-34089_2018_tundra.pdf (sparkstoyota.com)

Ironically it seems @Oolypoolay did have a correct part number, they are on the instructions, but the part number I posted seems to be them as well..
Maybe they are different parts numbers for Tundra and Tacoma, but they are the same kit for both trucks.
00016-34187 - LED Cargo Bed Lighting - | Sparks Parts


That's why I was saying if the cargo lights work, then the bed lights should be getting power.



Good luck..

 

In fuse box under dash above parking brake, cargo light fuse

 

Yeah, those are a southeast toyota thing. I remember seeing them for Tacoma years ago in GA. Back then on tacoma kit they got power from tapping a line behind kick panel under fuse panel at driver side. Dont know if that is still how dealer does them.

 

Also it could be something as simple as a bad connection.
I've had a couple of issues with my Amp steps not working over the years.
The OEM wiring is so small, you really have to make sure your taps are making a good connection, and I was using Posi-taps.
Over the year the Posi-taps lost the connection, I just took them apart and reseated the wiring.

But the first thing you need to do is to see if there is power at the lights, perhaps the LEDs just petered out.
Especially if you don't have a cover and they have been exposed to the weather all this time.
I can't remember if there is an inline fuse on the bed light wiring harness.
When I can I'll look at my truck and see if it has one..

 

100% this, check for power before spending $$$

 

The fuse is in the engine compartment; tests and looks fine.
The cargo lamp above the rear window works fine.

I unwound the extra 8' of cable under the right rear bumper, followed the rear cargo lamps to the connectors.
There is power there and they look like good connections.
I checked the ohms across each lamp's terminal-pair and - infinite. These are LEDs which I have never tried that so not sure how to interpret. Likely they are both bad. They did fail separately, months apart.

Thanks for ideas on how to resolve. Will report back if anything unusual happens.
Other bulb problems in separate threads.

 

Thanks for the update.
Just replace with the option of your choice, there are many.
You have to do some splicing, but that's pretty easy.

Posi-taps with tape or heat shrink, or soldering with heat shrink.
Tons of youtubes on soldering.

Either find an OEM equivalent (posted a couple), ort go crazy with after-market strips.
The OEM equivalent would be easier, you certainly should have some slack in the wiring if you pulled the OEM light out to splice.

The extra cable is because those OEM bed light kits allow for 8' beds.
On my first OEM install I bundled them up and did the same thing..

 

Prior to replacing, I would try to determine what caused the failure to begin with and try to eliminate that this time around.

 

I think his OEM bed lights just petered out.
He stated one was flickering and it went out.
His bed looks like it's not covered and 4 years in the weather might do it..

 

He's apparently now asking about problems with front turns/markers or parking (ambers), so I'm starting to think maybe he bought a flood damaged truck for a bargain or maybe even was lied to. His truck just isn't all that old yet.

 

You have a good point.
It's odd the rears work (turn signals), if they do, and the fronts don't.

I'd think if it was a flooding issue nothing in the headlights would work.
As well it may also be a rodent wire chewing issue..

 

I put led bulbs in the cargo lamp. No need for anything else. I can skin and quarter a deer with them on. Also good for getting the message across to tailgaters at night. I had regular bed lights in my Tacoma. I used 8" LED weatherproof marine lights. My problem with lights in the bed is cargo blocks them.

 

Sj,
The failed bulbs were factory LEDs (so, ostensibly, I did need something else!)
Tonight I soldered in new cheapo LEDs much like the one posted by 2mchfun.
(If they don’t last, well they were $1.50 each.
After drilling through the old ones for the wires, I used WeldBond 2part epoxy with a 550° temp rating to affix them.

 

Just so you know, the ones I posted are not only in my bed under the rails, they are also under my cab behind the rocker panels as puddle lights. They get exposed to rain splash, mud, gravel, salt, etc. Which means they get hit with frequent really hot water undercarriage rinses too. They have been there for a couple of years and still work like new. That is why I suggested them. Just my .02, good luck!

Edit: If you zoom in this pic, you can see clear lense amber versions used as side markers just under the doors too. There are 5 on steel tube bolted to the pinch weld. Again, no problem with element exposure, tucked in away from physical damage.

 

Flashlight

 

When you want to go to the next level, add a door switch to the tailgate. Include a bypass manual switch for when hauling with gate open.