Milwaukee Miter Saw

Hello all,

I just bought myself my first miter saw yesterday and am pretty excited to start using it. I went with the Milwaukee 10" sliding saw since I'm already part of the Milwaukee platform with my collection of power tools. I don't consider myself a pro but I wanna fill up my free time with small projects. I already put it to good use yesterday by cutting bevels on some DIY truck ramps I put together. They came out fairly decent.

Anyways the reason for this post is to get input and opinions from those of you who have experience...
I'm looking to get a saw stand for my Milwaukee. I've watched at a few videos and so far liking the DeWalt rolling stand for its ease of mobility. Throw some ideas out there and share some pics.

Here's my new saw..



And the ramps I made. Heavy as f as they are 12" but I'll work on improving them.

 

I have https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwx723/heavy-duty-miter-saw-stand for my DeWalt miter saw. Super handy for hardwood work, which means you cut long boards all day long like crazy.

 

I do like those stands. They are really light weight and compact.

This is the one I have my eye set on but am wondering if my Milwaukee would be compatible with it?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-32-1-2-in-x-60-in-Rolling-Miter-Saw-Stand-with-300-lbs-Capacity-DWX726/202935041

It's basically like a gurney

 

That’s awesome. Would love to have a saw like that someday as I’m also in their lineup.

since you got the slide you could probably add what they used to call a “wobbler” and do dado cuts. Would make the saw super handy if you were mobile cabinet maker or something.

you can do a lot with those saws. More than most people recognize

 

Yeah my brother is a pretty good woodworker so he built me some really nice fairly lightweight truck ramps and I drank his Kool aid and now I wanna see what I can do with one of these saws. I made those bevel cuts but just had the saw on the same folding table with the ramps on and it was not ideal. I feel that a really good saw stand would enhance it.

These are the ramps that my brother made...


I have lots to learn. Should be fun

 

I'll have to look into what this "wobbler" is. All new terminology for me

 

I'm in the Bosch ecosystem - I recently picked up their 12" Surgeon saw and it had a deal where you got their gravity stand for free. It's a great stand. Very heavy duty and easy to put together.





Before I bought it, I had bought the smaller, 7-inch Bosch cordless saw and bought a Rigid stand from Home Depot. It was a bitch to put together and its quality and functionality is nowhere near the Bosch.

 

That one looks real heavy duty. I think I definitely want to get a rolling style one like yours or the DeWalt. Question about storage... I read a couple of comments in the reviews or YouTube videos where it's suggested not to store your saw on the stand in the sideway position. Does your stand seem like it's sturdy enough to keep it connected to the stand but in a vertical position?

 

Definitely the Bosch - I just checked. The Rigid seems to slide.

 

Rigid: Cheap Plastic


Bosch: Metal

 

I have the rigid stand and love it...Im not in the trade, simply an advanced DIY'er and have not had any issues with it. I dont transport it offsite, just roll it around the house from project to project. Paid $100 for it and still see it go for that from time to time

 

Do you keep yours stored in a vertical position? Or store it layed down so the saw is upright? For me, it would be ideal to keep it stored vertical if at all possible.

 

The 10" M18 miter saw is a great saw. Mine has been going strong for... well.. since they released it. First thing I would do, though, is toss the blade and get one of their white blades or a Diablo; choose the tooth count for the type of work you plan on doing. 24 tooth cuts dimensional lumber fast but sucks at hardwood and crown; 40 tooth is a good general purpose - still pretty fast and reasonable cut quality; 60 tooth for ply, melamine, trim and cuts dimensional lumber at ok speeds; 80 tooth for trim, ply, melamine only. Takes FOREVER to cut dimensional lumber and even longer to cut S4S hardwood like maple and usually ends ups leaving some burn marks.

Second thing is to square the fence and detents. This is super easy to do with a piece of 3/4" thick by 3 or 4" lumber that is straight on both sides. 2x4's work ok, but aren't usually straight enough. A piece of scrap 1x4 baseboard or casing works pretty good. Simply put the saw at 90 degrees and make a cut. Flip one cut side over and see how well the cut lines up. If you have a gap front to back, you need to adjust the 90 degree stop via the detent plate. If you have a gap top to bottom, you need to adjust the 90 degree vertical stop. Super simple and way more accurate than trying to use a speed square that's gonna ride against the teeth and deflect the blade anyways.

Aside from that, mine has taking a beating for several years in the back of my truck as I use it almost every day. I have the older version of Milwaukees's miter saw stand. It sure puts the HEAVY in heavy duty, but it's wheeled so I used to leave the saw attached to it and just lift the whole assembly up in to the truck, wheels towards the cab, and roll it in and out by the handle with my other tools holding it up. I have the new Milwaukee miter saw stand but haven't incorporated it in to my bed setup yet so now real comments on it's durability. Functionally, it works great. I like it better than the nice Dewalt miter saw stands (which, IMO, have been the gold standard for years for miter saw stands that don't take up half the truck bed like the Surgeon stand above). I also have or have used several ~$130ish stands from the likes of Delta, Rigid, etc. Most aren't sufficient for a 10" slider but would be ok on a non-slider or 7 1/4" slider. I also prefer a roller extension arm so that finished stock slides easily across the supports, but for dimensional, MDF trim, and unfinished projects, non-rollers are just fine. The big problem with the smaller, cheaper stands is that they don't have enough weight or balance for the 10" saw, so it can wobble, move, or even fall over (ask me how I know...). I haven't tried any of the big wheeled scissor-lift contraption type stands because they take up too much room for my setup and dragging that ginormous assembly in and out of the truck with be a PITA, so I stick with the traditional foldable type stands.

Edit: to add one more thing - you can use ANY m18 battery on that miter saw, but it's happier with a 2S or 3S high output battery like the 6Ah, 8AH, or 12Ah battery. Or the 6 AH forged. More power, faster blade speed, cleaner cuts as it doesn't bog down as much. Just FYI. But I've but a 1.5ah battery on it to make a cut before and it did it...

 

Great response and a vast of knowledge. I am going to have to dissect it

Thank you, I will have to get me some scrap wood and test for straightness. I did watch a couple 'how to' videos and saw one guy use a speed square but i'll use your method.

I did have a hard time cutting thru all of those 2x12's from my 1st post with the ramps. The blade kept bogging down on me and it did not sound good at all. The saw came with a M18 High Output XC8.0 battery and it overheated so I pulled that out quick to cool down and used my smaller 2.0 batteries just to finish the last few cuts. I asked my bro and he also recommended getting a better blade than the one it came with but also I don't think I was cutting correctly. I definitely need to practice a little bit more. He recommended a carbide blade, I'll most likely be doing mostly cross cutting. The saw came with a 60tooth "fine finish" blade so would you say a cross cut 40 tooth would be my best choice? I wouldnt really be looking for speed. I'd rather have good quality.

As for the stand, I'm not too concerned about taking the saw with me places as it would mostly just be kept here at home. If anything, it would just go to and from the garage to the backyard and so seeing these roller stands makes me wanna lean towards that just for the ease of mobility.

 

@blenton

Also, this may be a real dumb question but what is this long u bracket for?


With my luck, it's probably a crucial piece

Edit: Found where it goes. Looks to be a hook to hang the saw on the wall.

 

I keep them vertical

 

I have a 12” Dewalt compound mitre saw. This moving dollie, $13 at Harbor Freight, is the same deck height as my saw with the saw on the ground. No more than I’m using the saw for the occasional project, the dollie makes for a great movable board support. Cheap and doesn’t take up any garage room.

 

That's clever

 

"Doesn't take up room..." What a lie! =)

 

Update: Well after much research, hearing your guys input, and watching several review videos, I ended up going with the DeWalt roller saw stand and I must say, I'm pretty impressed so far. Just picked it up this morning from Home Depot along with a couple pieces of lumber for a small project.
Haven't rolled it out to the backyard to use it yet but I will real soon!

 

Loving this saw and stand

 

Saw stands with wheels are kino. Getting one with two sets of supports on one side is very helpful too. Most stands tend to not work well with 16ft stuff, but that’s job specific for sure.

I haven’t used a battery miter saw before, cross cutting a 2x12 might be more of an amp issue than a blade issue. Similar to a chainsaw blade once the chips become dust the blade is toast, itll kind of “burn” a bit when this happens too.

 

For that saw, it's typically a blade issue. Using a newer battery pack with the 21700 cells (like the OP is with the 8.0AH pack) or the Forge pouch cells provides plenty of current, IME, for dimensional lumber. Any saw will bog if you just try to hawg that whole thing in one pass but a 2x12 will usually have some internal stress that wants to pinch the blade, which is the only time I've stalled that saw. Well, actually it was a 9 or 10" wide piece of 8/4 rock maple that twisted and pinched in a way that I had to pull the blade off the saw and spend 5 minutes freeing the sword from the stone. But that's just my experience with it.

I honestly thought the m18 miter saw and table saw were probably a little bit gimmicky with they announced them. Talking with the local Milwaukee rep - who will honestly warn me off of tools if something not up to snuff or there's a better version coming out - he assured me they were good to go. I figured it might get me by for basic things but kept my corded saw on the shelf just in case. I haven't plugged that corded saw in once in four years. The M18 saws are legit.