What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I agree about the factory white being single stage. Mine just had lots of dings and rock chips and small gouges and scratches etc from 20 years of nature. Now it has enough paint on it that it won't burn through when I buff it in a few years. After painting I installed new OEM headlights and turn signal lamps. I'm looking for a steel front bumper with hardware to replace the bulbous bumper cover.

 

I cut/fit these frame boxing plates to box the rear frame from the gas tank crossmember to the end of the frame.


A little bit of a tricky fit as the top and bottom flanges of the frame are not identical. This will give me a good starting point for the tubular crossmember/shock mount.
I wire wheeled/ospho'd/and rattle canned everything before tacking them into place. I'll treat the box section every so often to keep the rust at bay.

Thinking something like this for the crossmember. The shock mount will intersect this x somewhere around the white marks on the frame rails. Which reminds me I still need to check the shock length and get those ordered. I already picked up a stick of 1 1/4 x .125 wall seamless for the tube work, so I'll dive into that in the morning.


Think I'll lay on the couch the rest of the day.

@khooiii You just have a short turndown off your muffler right? Hows that sound? Not trynna' hear this thing drone, but the stock exhaust passes right through prime shock mounting territory.

 

As one person pointed out it’s a little gimmicky because you can’t adjust rebound. So that aspect doesn’t change at all. But I’m interested to see what the changes actually feel like.

 

Like a TANK. Impressive
Put Zerks every 12" and fill that boxed in frame full of grease. For eva eva rustproofed.

 

Looking real nice! Flatbed conversion may be something I look at doing in the future. Keep it up man.

 

This is what I was suggesting for a better visual.

also making something like this to mate to the rear shackle bolt to brace it. It’d be super tight packaging but it’s been considerations for my truck if I go to a linked setup myself.

So my truck is pretty loud, but not straight pipe loud. It’s got little bottle cats from the kid that had it prior and I added a 14” magnaflow dual in single out. I had it dumped after axle and then had to dump it before the axle with the shock relocation. For whatever reason it was quieter than the dump after the axle. My wife doesn’t complain so we’re in the green. I’m going to put the exhaust through the bed though.

 

so I did a little tuning with my buddy’s GX with his Fox dsc up front and radflo triple bypass out back. I feel like the Fox shocks are pretty soft cause we turned his up basically all the way. Now our trucks are notoriously stiffer in that department so I can see how you’re comfortable with softest settings. I’d leave the low speed all the way if it’s comfortable as is. Bump the high speed and go smash speed bumps and see if you can pickup stability and comfort. The low speed is nice for weight cause you can stiffen it to take out the body roll especially in the rear. It’ll give you that sway bar feeling even if you don’t have them.

Suspension feel is all subjective, but best advice is tune for stability and compliance at your own comfort level how having the truck get squirrelly or with you pushing it. Turn it up 2-3 clicks at a time to get that rapid adjustment then turn it back 1-2 until it’s dialed.

 

As mentioned, with video over here, during the holiday brake I'd intended to give a go with "JB Weld as filler/skim".

I hope this doesn't end up being a colossal failure, but I'm not going to try grating into it until it's had a couple extra days to set. First step was to sand everything down, see what I'm working with. Then rasp the holes. Then clean, and degrease it all. I felt like I needed to be a little more precise than I'd be able to get with the old JB-Weld-in-a-bag trick (where you weigh both parts into sandwich bag, mix in the bag, cut the corner and pipe it out), so I bag-mixed and piped into a 20ml baby meds syringe, foil taped the back of the holes, and spot-filled everything. It's a little loose, so you can't use a spatula with this very easily, it doesn't hold like filler. Smoothed after as shown in the video, enough to knock down the high spots, but had to be careful because if you brush over a hole, natural suction makes a divot.

I'll requote this later after I rasp it all down with a before/after. This will either be a total fail, or a total win. At worst though, the holes are completely filled without air pockets, so worst case I'll need to buy actual filler, spend a lot more time sanding, and skim coat it a few times.

​

 

Anyone have any ideas..... Remnants of my coworkers handiwork. Apparently he wasn't as tactful with repairs as I thought he was.


These were both of my ideas.

 

Heat and spray

 

Look at that nut....... Heat ain't gonna do shit if it's rounded off like that

 

Well that’s gotta suck. It’s bad enough with the poor clearance.

 

Dremel tool? Cut it out!

 

I 2nd that motion.

 

Thirded

 

Sometimes just the heat of cutting into the nut with Dremel will break it free. Do you care about the stud on the strut? If not, go to town.

 

Not enough space. Gonna have to either cold chisel and if that don't work take it to Erines.

 

I couldn’t quite tell but is photo of front strut? Back to sawzall? Cut that shit out!

 

Room enough to get a nutbuster in there?

$33 SQLMLZ 4PCS Metal Nut Splitter Cracker,Metal Nut Splitter Breaker Manual Pressure Nut Cracker Remover Extractor Tool,Broken Heavy Duty Nut Splitter Damaged Nut Removal Extractor Tools

https://www.amazon.com/SQLMLZ-Splitter-Cracker-Pressure-Extractor/dp/B0BYDDTYT1

 

Tundra on call, continually running drinking fountain….. angle stop shut off and done!
In some sweaty loafers with no socks……
Now I gotta wait 10 minutes to clock out

 

See now I like your ambition here's. Hoooooowever, that stud is the spacer stud to my front "leveling" block..... And therefore is a needed piece as I don't have another set of those. Hence the cold chisel method.

 

Yes but they are flanged nuts. So nut sure if that will work

 

Stay fly

 

Studs part of the spacer lift

 

“I’m super fly”

 

But I decided to put some parts on after I cooled down a bit. It's not much but at least I got something done. Gonna have to figure out how to get the rears to work.

 

The original TNMNT

 

Exactly!

 

Ice cube didn’t do to bad