Rotor replacement

I've definitely paid a lot more attention to my braking while off roading because of this. Only had the issue pop up one time but the repeated hard slow downs fixed it.

 

As previously mentioned, the rotor is different due to the six lug pattern. However, everything points to rotor rings as being the same size as the previous generation, 354 x 32mm. The pads are also same as the older generation, at least according to Bendix.

 

Have you seen how some people stop?

 

I'm on my 3rd set of brakes/rotors with my 2011... I got 50k on the first set, 70k on the second and am now on my 3rd with 130k on the truck... 17k sounds like something is not right there like others have said. (and I pull a 6500 lb boat/trailer with this truck, have done it 4 times across 1600 miles as well as around town too! so, that's a fairly good load with those numbers still)

 

My 2010 SR5 has 88,000 miles on the OEM Brakes. My Mechanic tells me I'll see 100,000 miles with no problem. When the brakes are ready for replacement, I'm trying OEM again. I can be CERTAIN, the new pads & rotors will wear much quicker.

 

Good points. Bedding in new pads and rotors is a good thing. Toyota owners manual will say "No hard braking the first 500 miles" or something like that. A better procedure is something like this https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

Bedding methods vary, there's plenty of info about it from aftermarketers like Akebono etc.

 

My Dakota warped a set of rotors in 12k and another by about 40. My 09 Crewmax’s were wobbling after about 25. I think new materials since the 90s have poorer heat dissipation capability which makes them prone to react poorly to scenarios old brake materials handled better. My 95 Ranger needed rotors turned at 60k which then lasted until after 100. Deficiencies in new materials probably exacerbated in heavier vehicles. Sedans in our family never have these problems but rotors on my last few trucks have always had short lifespans.

I did resurfacing once on the Dakota when offered goodwill 12k/1 year free service. Not really officially warrantied but a discretionary thing I was told dealers can sometimes get the company to authorize. Otherwise I go aftermarket and never look back.

 

Mine got 20k miles and warped rotors. Did you end up replacing or resurfacing the existing rotors.

 

My buddy just had his resurfaced at 800 miles on a 2023. The dealer told him it was from sitting in the shipping yard? Idk my buddies complaint was a shudder everytime he applied the brakes. They turned them (which I didn’t even realize was a thing anymore) and he said good as new.

 

My first tundra (2000 model) ate rotors like candy. 3 rotors in 60000 miles. The problem was the caliper design on that model. My 22 tundra started shaking around 15000 miles. I had the rotors resurfaced and new pads put on at 20000 miles. So far they are acting normal but time will tell. Our highlanders have been bad on rotors as well. About 30-35000 miles each set. My Camry went 160000 on the original pads and rotors. Go figure.

 

I do my best to time most of lights I come too. Makes life easier. That may not be answer but it sure makes life a little easier.

 

"S" mode is also your friend. No need to jump on the brakes every time you need to slow down a few miles per hour. Choose the gear YOU know is right for speed, road conditions and load. My Mechanic tells me my original brakes will last for at least 100,000 miles, I have 88,000 on my 2010 now.

 

Exactly. But I highly doubt the rotors in this care are really warped. The thing to note about this is that the deposits don't really create a warp or any high spots but rather change the friction in those spots where the pads were held in place after a hard hot stop and transferred material onto the rotors. The pulsing comes from the pad encountering zones of differing friction. Rebedding the pads might work. If not you can try sanding the rotors down, or get them lightly resurfaced.

 

Hey y’all,
Something is wrong with this brake set up. I’ve had dozens of trucks and SUVs (brand new and classics) and my brakes are pulsing again. No… Not pulsing, it’s worse than pulsing. It’s an offensive shudder, approaching a violent shaking.

I had them turned at 18k miles. Dealer noted runout of .003” and .002” on back and front rotors respectively. They were fine for another 4K miles, and now at 22k I have the same issue I had before.

I know what some of you may say, but it is not driver error. I am a driving enthusiast and enjoy the art of good driving. I too time the lights, just for fun. I use the s transmission setting and select my own gears so I have more control of speed with my right foot. I am not abusing these brakes.

Something is just wrong with them.

I’ve read that the pedal applies rear brakes only for the initial 20% of the pedal, to stabilize the rears, then the front kicks in. It eliminates nose dive, and keeps the truck flat under normal braking. Maybe that’s what it is. Maybe it’s the caliper design. Maybe it’s the rotor material. Idk, but something is really wrong with these brakes.

I hate it because I really really like everything else about this truck. I like it so much that I would just put better rotors and pads on it and move on. But I have not been able to find aftermarket pads and rotors.

I will update after I go to the dealer next week, but I am really disappointed in these brakes.

 

I don't know if this is a Tundra thing or a modern rotor in New England environment thing, but if I leave my Tundra sitting for even a fews days then the rotors rust up really badly. It gets to the point where it will take a several hundred miles of active driving to scrape the rust off if I let it sit for a week.

 

My rotor Left Front @ 2200 miles:
Towed to Dealership awaiting findings

 

I just had the rear rotors and pads replaced on the 23 @23k kms . Granted it towed a trailer a lot but still early imo. Toyota warranty covered the rotors but I had to buy the pads .