Kenwood eXcelon Reference DMX1057XR

So you are saying that’s what plug wire I need? They got the correct one now. Just have to wait for my appointment.

 

Never added the Kenwood 1057. Was planning on trading my tundra in. Not happening now. So back to deciding on which headunit. Anyone still like having a CD player? I do old school. So it’s going with 6.75 screen to have that or bigger screen. Anyone have to make this decision?

 

I took my CDs and extracted them as Flac files to listen on the head unit. I like the 1057 but it has been restarting quite a bit which is a bit frustrating but I still am glad at the big screen.

 

Yeah someone else told me to do the same. I may do that if I go with the 1057. Do you think it may need a update because of the restart. A lot of guys have this headunit and some are a hit and miss what you are saying and the boot up. My audio guy told me you won’t get away from the delay boot up because of all it has to load.

 

I did a 9906 because I "had to have CDs" I never listened to a full disk, took a loss on the 9906 & installed the 1057, love is too weak.


I have XM, a ROKU & 2400+ gb of all my CDs on USBs that I have yet to use just in case.

 

Definitely the bigger screen is in my favor. Decisions!!

 

I have the latest firmware and reset the device and maestro many times. Still restarts itself. Boot time is about 10-15 seconds, not a big deal. There is a very slight lag for reverse camera to display when I shift to reverse, compared to entune which was instant.

 

this thread died down, is it because you guys have moved on to another model? I have an opportunity to get a 1057xr, but if there is another better option then im open to it. All i need the HU to do is play quality audio through my aftermarket amps, apple wireless carplay, and a visual screen of the truck's parameters like trans temp, AFR, etc.

 

Have not kept up with the market but my 1057 still working great after updating to the latest firmware.

 

Great to hear.

 

Cannot speak for others, but I have not moved on to another model. I still want this model. However, Crutchfeld told me one of the add-on parts is no longer available, so I need to call them and figure out what my options are.

 

What is this part you speak of?

 

Good question. Not sure anymore - I just went back to Crutchfield's site to check, and it's no longer giving me that error. Maybe it was a fluke or a Christmas supply issue with an inaccurate error message. Looks like everything is currently available - the DMX1057XR, iDatalink Maestro RR2, iDatalink HRN-HRR-TO2,

$31 Metra 99-8252 Multi Installation Kit for Toyota Tundra 2014 and Up,Silver

Metra 99-8252 Dash Kit, Metra

$9 AX-TOYUSB - USB-Auxilliary Retention Harness - USB adaptor to retain the OE USB in select Toyota vehicles

AX-TOYUSB cable,

$12 Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable for Select Lexus/Toyota

Metra 40-LX11 antenna adapter, and the iDatalink ACC-HU-KEN1.

 

I just ordered the DMX709S and everything was available, should have it later today.

 

Read Pages 1-2 and 11. Want to read the rest...

For luxury4play... "this thread died down, is it because you guys have moved on to another model? I have an opportunity to get a 1057xr, but if there is another better option then im open to it. All i need the HU to do is play quality audio through my aftermarket amps, apple wireless carplay, and a visual screen of the truck's parameters like trans temp, AFR, etc."

It doesn't matter which head deck... What you want is the Maestro RR2 unit (iDataLink) - Kenwood definitely links to this - others may also. If you have 'other' equipment, like BanksPower iDataMonster / Pedal Monster -- do some research! (They cannot function at the same time on the same network. So, now you need more adapters.)

Distracted from my love of Vehicle Audio for a couple of decades, the new technology is reawakening it. Lots to catch up on! Class D amps / difficult to integrate factory premium audio / etc.
Interesting the same comments / opinions remain 20 years later: I chose this model because it has a VOLUME knob! That was one of my primary criteria way back then. The other was an OFF Button.

The last Head-deck I had with a genuine OFF Button was stolen from my 1987 Toyota Hilux Pickup -- just prior to my 1987 Toyota Hilux Pickup being stolen and taken to Seattle for Millennium celebrations!
It was a Sony head, single DIN with no internal Amps. You had to run separates. I did some digging and figured out which it was: Sony XR-7600 -- Cassette / CD Changer Control / Gold plated pre-amp outputs / No internal amplifier / etc. On eBay, there's an XR-7400 available for $350.00 - That's about what it would have cost new! (This probably has an internal amplifier - perhaps not)

Manufacturers! Take note:
On the Sony XR-7600 Head Unit, the buttons were exactly where they should be and you didn't need to look or think about them. Your finger just went to the desired button naturally and there were no extra buttons:

Large Buttons...
Left: OFF / LOUD / SELECT / MUTE
Right: EJECT / TUNER / CD / TAPE
Middle and Bottom: 1-6 Program / Seek / Manual (each had alternate functions for CD Changer)
Small Buttons...
Scan / Local / Mem / DolbyNR

I still pick up select cassettes from Goodwill, and (without hesitation) would buy that Head / Changer package again if it presented, used or new.

Anyway...

I was a die-hard Pioneer SuperTuner I/II/III groupie (due to FM selectivity/lock), until they were phased out.
A friend was a die-hard Kenwood groupie and I confess it was a better unit for the audio / amplifier processor.
I tried Sony / Alpine / JVC also: The JVC DVD units for RV's are great! - They include a clock/alarm - gotta get up early to go fishing/hunting!

For whatever reason(s), I've always preferred Kenwood:
My 2008 Tundra has Kenwood DNX-697S (for the CD/Nav/DVD). It would have been DNX-997XR, were it not for the foldout face - Buttons at the bottom are better, rather than the left where they hide from the driver.
(Also in my 2001 4Runner -- I've realized it's too much radio for this older vehicle. <- can't believe I said this about one of the newest I've ever owned)
!COMPLAINT! - Android Auto Mirroring is terrible / does not work as advertised! (I understand it's an app generation issue - so, make the old app available!)
My 2005 Corolla has Kenwood DPX-794BH (Volume knob!)
My 2003 JayCo RV has (older) Kenwood KDC-X994 (Volume knob!) (I've owned two of these - wish I'd kept the 2nd when truck was sold)
My 2010 Forest River pop-up has the JVC DVD Player (forget the model#). I might move it to the JayCo when selling the pop-up. It's great!

Long story longer...

I am flabbergasted how many accessories / harnesses are necessary to adapt an aftermarket head unit to modern vehicles: Before you've even considered Amps and Speakers, you've laid out about $1,500!
But forward of about 2007, when CAN networks were mandated in the US, everything must consider other equipment on the network so it all integrates appropriately: Such as assuring we don't watch movies and/or ube-tube clips while driving! It's a wonder there's not a law against installing it yourself, and the knowledge needed to do so is extensive: There are #7 items listed in post #313 ... Seven! ... There are several plugs [many duplicate wires] on each of those harnesses that will not be used. Plug n' Play... Yeah; Right!

Incidentally, I do not like the popular large screens: In the dash at the front... they are obtrusive. (Double-DIN is just right, though I admit the touchscreen buttons are smallish)

 

Glad I stayed up to the wee hours reading the rest of this thread. It has answered a bunch of Q's I've had with no A's concerning Apple CarPlay / Android Auto and what I consider to be 'newer Tundras' (2014--Present).

I've invented some tech, which still needs debugging to be functional for the 'newer' Tundras (at least for 2016--2019, possibly CrewMax only with factory Navigation/DVD in the overhead console). There are a lot of combinations of this truck! The tech may work on some and not others. Research needed. What I've invented may solve may a user's troubles expressed as low volume of bluetooth / CarPlay / cell calls / echo / etc.

I'm calling the tech CAR-MIC-SVR for the present. In essence, when you install the aftermarket HU and Maestro (or other installation harnesses), you don't need the black-puck microphone - not at all.
Rather, you integrate CAR-MIC-SVR into the wiring harness during installation. So, you never need to run the HU mic cable anywhere. Rather, CAR-MIC-SVR connects the Toyota factory microphone to the aftermarket HU.
I know this works flawlessly in my 2008 Tundra! It's the newer (Gen 2.5+) Tundras I've not yet gotten to the bottom of. (The PICs in this thread - copied and pasted below - have really helped me in my quest to figure this out for ALL Tundras.)

History:
I've never before owned a vehicle newer than 2005 and was unaware of the extent of CAN/LAN Networks in automotive tech since about 2007. An installer told me GM invented it in 2002 - in the Sprint or some other unexpected grocery-getter. Others have followed and CAN/LAN was mandated in the US in 2007, owing to TPMS at least, but probably because it's a really good idea in general! I am aware of NMEA0183 / NMEA2000 networks in marine applications / hardware. Interesting that two different methods have been developed to accomplish the same goal - network systems.

Anyway, I bought this 2008 Tundra DoubleCab Limited (JBL Premium Sound) the beginning of December 2023. Apparently, in Gen 2.0 (JBL Premium sound) factory Bluetooth is still rather primitive. Perhaps I should have manually programmed all my frequently used numbers and been content. The JBL HU looked good and functioned fine. But, I wanted to install a DNX697S for Navigation and DVD video, plus I knew it would simply download my phone book to the HU. I can do this in my Jayco RV, which has the 10 year old KDC-X994, and it links fine for Android Auto music playback too. Surely, 10 years down the road, everything would be sorted out and seamless? But, seamless it is not!

During installation, I purchased three different harnesses before figuring out that NONE of them have the plug that would adapt to my 2008 Tundra. (I had to resort to soldering) They've all skipped Gen 2.0. And Toyota has modified the plugs behind the dash several times as of 2021. I've not even looked at 2022--2024 yet. I know there are two microphones in the overhead of Tundra CrewMax with the long overhead console, which is a stumbling block for my CAR-MIC-SVR that I'm working through. That's what those copper tracers (pictured) are for - and this appears to have been ONLY in 2016--2019, after which there's only one Mic again - for which this tech would likely work. Why they didn't do that with four 22-26 ga wires in a harness is beyond me - disconnect one of those mics and problem solved. I don't yet know whether other versions / years have two Mics. (If you have insight on this, please share - and what's that little square box behind the lower dash cover - near right knee - with a plastic tube on it? It looks like a mic/grill.)

At present, I don't believe CarPlay / Android Auto are the source problem for all the comments about, "...This or that mic did or did not fix my echo / low volume / bluetooth connection." I believe it's the black-puck Mic cable / HU interface. Not all black puck Mics are equal and not all HU's are equal. You might presume a given HU maker has packaged the HU with a Mic that will work with the HU. But, they can't even get CarPlay / Android Auto to work! -- Pass the buck / blame around. Another mic is a few bucks - up to $30 for the Kenwood offering! and they all appear to be the same black-puck - externally.

The real problem is that the HU and Mic aren't matched, which is the problem I've solved with my CAR-MIC-SVR for a 2008 Tundra with JBL Premium sound as factory - Kenwood DNX697S / Maestro swap. Now, I need more Tundras (and HUs) to experiment with - perhaps a 4Runner, Tacoma, GS350, GR86, Supra, etc. Which would lead to the other makes / models. If it had a factory microphone, why are we told you must fish-snake a corded mic when installing an aftermarket HU? I am wholly convinced you don't have to and the factory mic is better - by which I mean more dynamic - when properly connected to the aftermarket HU.

PS: Watching the 5 Star vids -- They customized the Maestro TO2 harness, just like I did. That's how it should be done and adding CAR-MIC-SVR would have been a simple mod while they were at it - but for the possible 'two-mics' issue. I will figure it out, and perhaps I should just open an install shop.

Incidentally, your installer "... works hard for the money - so you hard for you honey - he works hard for the money so you better treat him right! ..."

 

I can’t get the tire pressure to show up.
I disconnected the battery for several minutes and still no luck.

Any tips for those who have this working with the 1057xr

 

I had to add resistor to the maestro harness.

 

Howdy folks! Highlander owner invading your Tundra space because of this very informative thread about the Kenwood DMX1057XR. I am hoping that someone can answer a couple of questions for me.

I understand that with the Maestro RR/RR2 packages, it is possible to display vehicle information on the display. Will it display vehicle speed and in more detail, will it display digitally ("65") instead of an analog dial?

Second, my Highlander has the 11 speaker, JBL setup. One installer recommended keeping the amp in the circuits, another suggested bypassing the amp. Can anyone shed some light on the pros and cons of doing this one way or the other?

Many thanks.

 

Yes, it will digitally display the numerical number of your speed as well as a digital analog gauge of your speed.

As for the JBL, I used the Maestro to keep the stock JBL system and kept everything plug and play. I have not looked into other alternatives so can't answer there.

 

Thank you. Very helpful.

 

I’ve read through most of this thread, but hoping someone can still help with a couple of issues before I pull it out again.

Vehicle is 2018 tundra with JBL.

First, I have mic mounted behind steering wheel in front of the instrument cluster. I’m told people I am talking to are hearing an echo. Is it possible I hooked into both factory mic and the mic that was included with the headunit? Or is mic location causing the echo?

Second, navigation using Apple or Google maps or Waze is off sometimes. If I disconnect CarPlay from my phone, it is perfectly fine displaying on my phone, but when connected to HU using CarPlay my location isn’t pinpointed and often has been in a field next to the road I’m driving on. I am using the included gps antenna, but it’s just thrown inside the dash behind the radio, so I think that is the issue. Navigation was also fine before I installed the HU’sngps antenna, but added it for wireless CarPlay. What is the best way/location to mount the gps antenna to get this to work accurately?. Or is there an adaptor wiring harness I can use that works with the vehicles antenna? I don’t use sat radio, so I may not have opted for that wire harness.

 

Your first issue of echo is a known CarPlay issue with aftermarket stereos. I am told it is because our trucks use a dual mic factory setup and there isn’t any way to disable one installing the aftermarket mic. So it picks up feedback and echo……not sure if that’s totally true but makes sense to me.

the second issue is I am betting you might have plugged the gps into the wrong slot….i did this too when first installing my alpine and had the exact same issues you are having. Once I took it out and plugged it into the right slot it worked perfect. The antenna will work fine tucked into the dash - I have mine mounted upside down on the underside of the dash close to the center speaker

 

Ok, for the mic, is there anyway to just use factory mic? Or is it required to use the radios mic and just deal with this echo?

for gps issue, you could be right. I think I do recall two inputs for where the gps antenna plug could fit, but didn’t take the time to confirm the correct spot with the manual.

bonus question (sort of unrelated to the headunit), but if anyone knows what speakers the JBL amp powers that would be great. And can I just completely disconnect the JBL amp and run wires from aftermarket amp to those speakers without affecting the other speakers (already have aftermarket sub and amp installed). RCA cables would be run from amp to the HU.

 

No way that I know of but I am pretty sure there are a couple people who claim to have retained the factory mic and soldered it in somehow…..

I can almost guarantee you that is your issue with gps - I did the exact same thing and had the exact symptoms you’re describing.

I don’t know about jbl but I replaced my non-jbl amp with a new one using a plug and play harness from *********. I am sure there are other vendors that offer the same. If you bypass the amp you will have to replace it as I believe the head unit only powers the front speakers. It SOUNDS like the way you are describing would bypass the jbl amp entirely and power your speakers but I am not familiar with the wiring schematics of the jbl system.

 

For those with the 1037 and or 1057, I’m having issues with answering incoming calls from iPhone and CarPlay.

when someone calls and I answer, I am not able to hear the caller through my radio speakers so I have to switch to speaker phone on my actual phone.

did I miss something with the install?

 

Any specifics on that? < nevermind I found a thread here about it.