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Warning lights on, no CEL, high battery voltage.

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by Null46, Aug 19, 2024.

  1. Aug 19, 2024 at 4:55 AM
    #1
    Null46

    Null46 [OP] New Member

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    2 flowmaster exhausts, 20 inch wheels
    Hello, I have a 2007 Tundra with the 5.7, SR5A crew cab. I have driven this truck for two weeks after I installed new fuel injectors and ignition coils. On Saturday I was going to head out for a drive and all warning lights came on, traction light, abs, vsc, battery light. The truck will start and run normal, but the battery gauge goes over to near 19 volts, I just upgraded the battery to an interstate 24f agm, this all first occurred on the old battery also. If I put the truck in drive, all of the lights go off and battery gauge goes down to normal area. If I get the rpms over say 1500, all lights come back on and battery gauge goes back over to 19 volt area. I'm at a lose hear, the truck has been running fine, I have had codes for bank 1 below threshold and both banks running lean. But these lights being on has never happened. Looking for help and awnsers and a direction. No CEL light with these warning light or codes.

    Thank you
     
  2. Aug 19, 2024 at 5:07 AM
    #2
    yakeng

    yakeng 3URFE Apologist

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    ECGS Bushing; GCS Cooler RASHD; Fox 2.0
    Have you looked at the charge current to the battery, or just from the gauge?

    Sounds like your voltage regulator may be bad and shorting out.
     
  3. Aug 19, 2024 at 5:51 AM
    #3
    Null46

    Null46 [OP] New Member

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    2 flowmaster exhausts, 20 inch wheels
    Yesterday I checked the battery with my multimeter and it was reading 15 to 17 volts. My obd2 reader is only plain, nothing fancy. The gauge would fluctuate around the middle, but to the low side, it never went to the high side like it currently is.
     
  4. Aug 19, 2024 at 5:53 AM
    #4
    Null46

    Null46 [OP] New Member

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    2 flowmaster exhausts, 20 inch wheels
    But what is weird is the a/c didn't work, then I turned it on again and it did work and when I put it in drive all lights go off and the gauge drops back near normal. If I go over 1500 or so rpms, lights and battery gauge come back.
     
  5. Aug 19, 2024 at 5:40 PM
    #5
    JSully

    JSully New Member

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    I think the voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. I just had to replace the alternator on my truck, it was a bugger. I found a good deal on one that was only a few years old on the lkq site.

    Hopefully someone with more experience than me can chime in. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2024
    yakeng likes this.
  6. Aug 19, 2024 at 5:51 PM
    #6
    yakeng

    yakeng 3URFE Apologist

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    It is internal. I replaced my alternator 2 weeks ago and it was a serious PITA.
     
  7. Aug 19, 2024 at 10:01 PM
    #7
    Null46

    Null46 [OP] New Member

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    2 flowmaster exhausts, 20 inch wheels
    I'm going to drop it off at a shop tomorrow that is close to my home, they only work on toyota and Lexus vehicles. When I left there yesterday to check on their services, a CEL finally came on, code P0500, vehicle speed sensor a malfunction. So they charge $ 165 for diagnostics to be run and then once I fing out what is the problem I can either fix it myself or have them do it, depends on cost. But they are reputable and the $165 would go towards the repair bill if I have them fix the truck. I did notice the speedometer didn't work until I started to brake for a stop and then the speedometer would work and stop again after I started driving again.
     
  8. Aug 20, 2024 at 3:56 AM
    #8
    2mchfun

    2mchfun Cool story, but did your new TTV6 tow a shuttle?

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    Screenshot_20240603-215851.png
    Google search for this chart, maybe "Tundra warning light chart" or similar.
     
  9. Aug 20, 2024 at 4:05 AM
    #9
    Null46

    Null46 [OP] New Member

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    2 flowmaster exhausts, 20 inch wheels
    Thank you for sharing. Also yesterday, when I would pull up to stop completely, the speedometer would come back on and the battery gauge would drop.back to normal and all of the warning lights that were on would turn off. Once I would start driv8ng again, the warning lights come back on and the battery light would come on and gauge goes to 19 volts high side. But when I would stop completely after driving, the truck goes right back to normal operation. I will update once I have an awnser, just hoping it's either something related to the speed sensors on the wheels or the one on the transmission, but the transmission shifts like it should. I don't want the cluster to be bad as I have found on some searches and YouTube and I don't want the alternator to be bad.
     
    2mchfun likes this.

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