New (to me) 2005 Tundra, Getting ready to tackle some maintenance!

Hi everyone! I’m very pleased to have recently become the owner of a 2005 Tundra Double Cab with 260k on the odometer. The truck runs great and has fairly minimal rust, but the dealer and CarFax report only had a very limited service history available. I tried checking the records that were available on Toyota’s website, though the documented history was pretty limited there as well.

I’ve driven the truck about 200 miles since buying it and it runs and shifts great. I’m getting ready to start replacing a few parts for some peace of mind since I don’t have a lot of history available to me.

I’ve read through quite a few of the guides and posts here on routine (and preventative) maintenance, and I *think* I’ve got a decent grasp on what to address first.

There’s no timing belt information or sticker, so my plan is to replace the:

-timing belt and water pump (with an

$191 AISIN TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

AISIN TKT-021 kit)
-serpentine belt
-belt tensioner
-idler pulley
-thermostat and thermostat gasket
-radiator
-upper and lower radiator hoses

I’m also planning on doing a drain and fill of the engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, rear differential oil, transfer case oil, lubing the driveshaft, and replacing the oil and air filters.

I’ve seen quite a bit on the lower ball joint failures, so I’m planning on taking care of those as well.

Is there anything else that I should be addressing while I have it apart to do the timing belt and water pump? Is there any other ‘critical’ maintenance that I’m missing for a well-running Tundra with an otherwise fairly unknown service history?

Thanks in advance!

 

Any visible oil leaks ?

 

Not sure if you added the Amazon link or if the forum did but buy this on Rockauto not Amazon, don't want to get fake parts.

I'd honestly say order almost everything on your list from Rockauto for the same reason. There's a 5 percent discount code posted in a few places on the forum or you can always Google search for one.

 

Welcome from NY.

 

A lot of places don't report on maintenance done, so I wouldn't worry too much about that. PO could've just used smaller places for maintenance. With that 2005, I'd read up on the SAIP as well. Got pics of the truck?

This is another area that's notorious on our trucks. Valve cover gaskets and oil coolers.

2nd, big big 2nd. NEVER buy shit off Scamazon. Like Nick said there's usually an active discount code on here at all times.

 

Do the oil cooler figure 8 gasket and the one behind the oil filter.

it’s easy if all the oil and coolant are out of the truck already. Parts are under 6$ for it.

 

Pics please of engine and suspension. LBJ and TB should be top of your list.

 

Good luck these guys In this forum are an amazing resource


I will just add that so you don't get overwhelmed early on definitely do the timing belt and lower ball joints first.

if you have any leaks in the power steering, oil, transmission, differential - basically everything other than brake fluid, I would strongly suggest

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 Re-seal. I was not a believer, but it immediately fixed a significant power steering leak that I had Even if you plan on coming back later and replacing gaskets, etc., it will get you by until you catch your breath and get other more important things done

Welcome to the forum. I started refreshing my 06 DC with 300,000 plus miles a year and a half ago and again this forum, the people and the resources, is amazing. A warning though - repairing and upgrading your truck with the assistance of this forum can become addictive

 

Spark plugs. Make sure the front brake caliper pins are greased or you’ll be drilling them out come brake pad replacement time. Adjust your rear brakes and make sure the parking brake works and there’s no slack in the cable. Also replace your brake fluid.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! You certainly found the right place to find out about your Tundra. These guys know these trucks inside and out.

 

I just noticed my rack bellow is showing a leak in the rack. Inner tie rod, I suspect. Started sometime between getting my 275s on, and recently installing the 285s. Added a few oz of 205 in there, and I need to wipe down the bellow to see if it nips it in the bud as I hope.

 

Hey guys, thank you for the advice and the welcome!

Looks like there’s some oil leakage around the valve cover gaskets on each side. I haven’t driven it enough to get pulse for how bad it’s leaking yet, but I’m gonna replace those and the oil cooler and oil filter gaskets like jerryallday suggested.

The lower ball joints look alright as far as my untrained eye can tell. They look a little less oxidized than some of the nearby suspension components so I’m inclined to believe they were replaced at some point in the somewhat recent past, though I’m planning on replacing them with OEM LBJs and bolts just to play it safe.

I do have a torn rack and pinion bellow on the passenger side. Aside from a bit of a power steering whine, the power steering hasn’t proved to be problematic thus far, though I’ll certainly be keeping an eye on it.

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 might be the the way I tackle that while waiting for parts to come in if it seems like it worsens.

I’m planning on ordering all the replacement parts from RockAuto other than the LBJs and bolts since I didn’t see OEMs listed there, thanks for the heads up about the RockAuto discount code!

The brakes were one of the handful of things that were replaced just before I bought the truck. The parking brake seems to be good, I’m in the habit of engaging the parking brake any time I park and it seemed like it had appropriate tension/grip. I’ll check out the cable to make sure there’s no slack. I’ll also make a note to grease the caliper pins while I’m doing the LBJs.

I apologize for the poor lighting in the pictures. The rain started coming down just as I was getting out there late this evening. I’ll try getting some better pictures of the suspension, and truck as a whole tomorrow. Let me know if there's any specific areas that you'd like to see.

 

Also, does anyone have the part number for the gasket behind the oil filter? I think it's Toyota part number 9672124025, but I'd like to double check

 

Definitely need a brake fluid change (dirty master cylinder fluid). Valve cover leak and steering rack boot as you already know.

Not sure I know what that green wire going over the knuckle is all about.

 

The green "wire" is actually two zip ties. It looks as if they were intended to hold that brake line bracket on the knuckle that always breaks, but it's not holding it because you can see it flopping on the side.

 

Get a stainless hose clamp on that brake line (where the green zip-ties are). I found a way to run it through the slot in the original bracket so there was no rub on any of the line.

I'll 2nd the

$21 AT205 ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT205 stop leak, works like a champ. I found that some of my valve cover bolts were loose though (common problem I think?). Don't smokum to Alabama though (over tighten).
I would get that rack boot zip tied up temporarily until you get new ones.
One LBJ looks new, but for sure neither one is OEM. Oem do not come with grease zerks. At least mine didn't and I haven't seen any that have.
Definitely flush your brake fluid until it's clear at every wheel. It took me an entire quart/big bottle.

You stumbled into the right saloon for info/help on your truck, these boys know them inside and out.

 

X2 on getting that brake line secured. Mine ruptured the brake line and I lost all pressure because of that.

 

Passenger LBJ has been replaced, very recently in fact, hopefully not catastrophically, and it was replaced with new hardware which is nice to see; driver is potentially original. I'd change driver, at least, with OEM only. 100k-125k is your LBJ lifespan **IF AND ONLY IF** you used OEM parts. Aftermarket parts, you're looking at 1/2 - 1/3 the lifespan due to inferior part quality.

Get that bellows replaced.

You clearly have valve cover gasket leak, check to see if the bolts are at-least hand tight, i.e. take a deep well socket and try to turn each bolt using only the socket. The valve cover isn't supposed to have much more pressure than that, and the fasteners will snap on you. All the valve cover info you need to overhaul is here, reply #18: https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-covers-fix-or-leave.105385/#post-2712883

You can use a good degreaser like Griot's Engine Cleaner to clean up the oil residue everywhere either now or after VC gasket replace, use a decent bottle brush/wheel brush, being careful not to snag any electronics, take a blower to things after, or let it sit for 1-2 hours to dry after, before you reattach battery cable. Always remove your negative battery cable before spraying any liquids in the engine bay. Remember to drop the skid plate, and use a good degreaser on that, Simple Green is great, it's just not necessarily alloy-safe, so I don't use it on anything except steel.

You may have cam seal leaks, which is why I'm telling you to clean and wipe up the oil.

You'll want to do other regular maintenance, like

• get a shop towel, and wipe down all the grease on the lower half of the car, wipe it into the parts really well, consider it anti-rust coating
• go to parts store, get some MAF cleaner and some Throttle Body cleaner, if you need instructions (or a couple of warnings about Throttle Body cleaning), let us know (do it while batt cable is off above)
• replacing vent valves, like the PCV valve on driver's side valve cover and the vent valve on the rear diff
• checking rubber hoses, consider looking at the ends to check for cracks, and cutting the last 1/8" off before re-clamping; I'd replace both PCV hoses
• complete brake flush, power steering flush
• replace rear diff, front diff fluids, consider doing transfer case (note: Lucas 80w90 is your one true "safe bet" for compatible diff fluid)
• overhaul tailgate handle and latches, it's quite easy: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...gate-clip-repair-overhaul-beef-up-lube.94180/
• if parking outdoors, be aware of the infamous cowl fastener leak
• get that bellows replaced; buy OEM part, I can get you the #, you'll also need a new oetiker clamp to replace bellow, work isn't that bad

 

Awesome, thanks again guys! I've got the first round of parts ordered, and I've secured the brake line. I'll feel a lot better once the timing belt, LBJs, and radiator have been replaced.

On the topic of differential and transfer case fluids, is there any particular reason Lucas 80w90 is the 'safe bet' for a compatible diff fluid? Do you recommend Lucas 80w90 for both, the front and the rear diff?

I see in the owners manual that 75w90 is recommended for the transfer case and front differential, though for the rear diff it's listed as: "Standard differential: Synthetic oil SAE 75W-140" and "Limited−slip differential: Above −18C (0F): AE 90 Below −18C (0F): SAE 80W or 80W−90"

I'm not certain if my truck is equipped with a LSD or not, but it certainly gets below 0F in southern PA during winter.

 

Some people on this forum (incl. me, "Mr. Overly Skeptical") learned the hard way about the rear diff, specifically.

If you have an LSD rear diff (you should have a sticker saying so next to fill plug unless your diff is rusted to shit), you WILL get chatter from many of the sythetic rear diff fluids on the market, and dumb-down the function of limited slip by adding additive. I thought I was being sly going with my old trusty Mobil1 synthetic rear that advertises having LSD additive in its package. Guess what? The LSD rears in these things have really sensitive clutchpacks or something, because I had to add nearly an entire bottle of diff slip additive in mine to get rid of about 80-90% of the chatter and at that point, I wasn't comfortable. Thankfully Mobil1 refunded me in full b/c their product didn't perform.

But at the end of the day, I'm the f'n idiot, because @FirstGenVol and others warned me, even ECGS (East Coast Gear Supply) who are well-respected industry experts on the topic, also put Lucas 80w90 at the very top of their best-of-best list and recommend it too. That should've been my, "You're not the expert here, those guys are the specialists!"

I don't see any reason you can't.

But that said, IIRC I left the Mobil1 75w90 (or maybe 75w140, since that's what Toyota is using now?) in my transfer case and front diff.

Oh, and warning: DO NOT overtighten the transfer case fill/drain plugs!!! You will crack the housing or strip the threads.

To that point, depending on how new you are, always open the fill plug first, so you are guaranteed a way to re-fill the diff after. Granted, you could pump in via the breather on top (which I recommend replacing, it's like $8-10) but nobody wants to do that.

If you have tow package, I believe you'll have LSD. But more than that, you should find it on your truck into at the Toyota Owner's website.

That's assuming yours isn't rusted, and hasn't lost its sticker. Here's my 2006 4WD w/tow pkg and sticker is still intact. "ONLY LSD OIL"

​

 

I could’ve sworn I’ve seen others on another Tundra website saying Valvoline 80w-90 with the LSD additive was all they needed but that was over 15 years ago.

Anyway, I have a standard diff and just use the Valvoline without additive.

 

Well, bad news guys.. The parts finally arrived, and I was planning on putting everything in this weekend.

I was planning on doing fluid changes on the differentials, the transfer case, and greasing the driveshaft first since it didn’t require the level of disassembly that the timing belt and water pump would. While I was rolling around under the truck on a creeper I started inspecting a few rusty areas a little bit more closely.

Most of the frame is in good condition, but looking at it from underneath, it looks like there’s a previous attempt at a frame repair pinned in place on one of the passenger-side side rails.

More concerning is the section of the frame just in front of the driver’s side cab mount. After spraying the truck down with some water I noticed the large smear of dried bondo. After smacking it with a ratchet a few times I saw that what is left of that section of the frame appears to have expanding foam sprayed into it that the bondo outer layer is adhered to.

Needless to say, I am incredibly disappointed, and am kicking myself for not having seen that disguised section of filler on the frame before I bought it.

It was an ‘as-is’ sale from the dealer, so I fear that I’m SOL on this one. I happened to see another thread on here for a very similar situation where they argued with the dealer and the dealer took the truck back, using the basis of the truck having a recent inspection. Perhaps that would be applicable in this instance. The truck was sold with an inspection that is valid until 04/25. That level of frame damage and corrosion couldn’t have just happened in the past 9 months, right? Surely the inspection shop had to have seen that.

I’m also searching and reading around about the feasibility of having the frame patched or repaired, but my concern is that this route would be out of the budget anyway..

Fortunately, all the parts and fluids are still sealed and in their packaging, so depending on how this mess ultimately pans out, returning them will likely still be an option.

If you guys have any thoughts or experience on this, please feel free to share. Looks like I paid the stupid tax on this one.

 

I’d look into it legal-wise. As-is is typically under the assumption that the selling party wasn’t trying to hide something. Here they obviously did, so you may have legal recourse.

 

This. Clearly you got fucked, and burned, this is EXACTLY why THIS THREAD stresses so seriously and repeatedly (to the point of dead horse beating) that you inspect the frame. You're one of half dozen or more we see per year who get boned by shady dealers/sellers.

Clearly that was a cover-up job. Typical advice I see is to contact your state Consumer Protection Division. Dealerships can't sell you a vehicle like this with clear problems, then get away with it because they force you to sign an as-is. Knowingly selling a defective vehicle is a crime in many states.

You should be pissed. I'd be pissed. It's up to you whether you want to go straight back to the dealer and point out the frame hackery, and let them know you're going to the CPD, but I'd probably contact the CPD and ask them what to do in this case, "Are there any protections for me, as a consumer, if a dealership sells me a used vehicle and they covered up extensive frame rot, the the point the frame could snap over any bump?"

 

Did you buy from dealer or private party. Probably also criminal act as well as civil. Call the police, BBB and state Consumer protection. If a business a little public attention might be indicated. Keep us posted. Might be worth talking to an attorney.

 

Bondo on the frame? Jeez