1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

4.7 ticking

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by locrwln, Oct 20, 2024.

  1. Oct 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM
    #1
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab
    Good day everyone,

    I have a 2005 Tundra AC, SR5, 220k. I purchased it approximately 6 months ago knowing that the timing belt was due. The first belt was done late and this belt had approximately 8k miles to go. I followed the sticky and ordered my kit from Rockauto. I added new spark plugs (NGK Iridium). I watched several videos, read numerous threads, made notes, and prepared for surgery.

    I have been working on cars my entire life and have done a head gasket on my LX450, motor swaps/conversions on 1st gen 4Runners, built transfer cases and did my own gears, done SAS conversions, etc. So I am pretty comfortable with doing mechanical stuff. My wife has always been right there with me building and working on our projects.

    We got started on the Timing Belt/Water pump swap, I had already done an oil change and put the new spark plugs in. Everything went well other than the left cam rotated slightly once the old belt was released. I rotated it back into place to the “T” position to match the other cam. At this point, I should mention that the motor was a typical 4.7 sewing machine. Just like my previous 4th gen 4Runner. We got everything back together and verified everything was in sync after two rotations. From there, we reassembled everything and started it. The left cam (front) area now had a slight ticking noise that neither of us remembered being there before the TB swap. We tore the cam covers back off to look at the engine and cam timing and everything was still perfectly timed and nothing appeared to be hitting anything as there was no evidence of rubbing on any of the surfaces near the cam gear. We looked and looked to try and determine what it could be. We were unable to find anything. We put it back together and the noise was still there. I began searching every 4.7 ticking post and YouTube video I could find and none of them seemed to match my issue. Other than the noise, which increases with engine RPM’s. I even changed out the synthetic oil I had put in with conventional. There was no change in the noise. I have used both metal and rubber “stethoscopes” to try and locate the noise and it seems to be right around the left front cam area, on the cam cover, just below the VVT solenoid bossing.

    Other than the noise the truck runs perfectly. I have put almost 500 miles on it with the “tick.” Last Friday, I tore everything back down to once again check my work. Everything was still perfectly timed. I took the belt off and using the still visible belt marks and started over with the timing belt install to ensure that everything was perfect. I got everything back together and the “tick” is still there. I have checked for exhaust leaks and every other thing that has been suggested by the posts I have searched.

    I am at my wits end and I’m hoping that someone on here has a solution as the truck is great other than this annoying ticking noise and the crappy Rancho Quick lift (which is on the list). It can’t be heard inside the truck, but if you are outside, have the door or window open, it’s very noticeable.

    Thank you,
    Jack
     
  2. Oct 20, 2024 at 1:25 PM
    #2
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2019
    Member:
    #37321
    Messages:
    2,044
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bryan
    South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    2018 SR-5 CM 5.7, 2000 SR-5 AC 4.7L
    My 2000 has a tick when cold due to a cracked exhaust manifold since 80K miles. Once warm it goes away. Other common sources could be noisy injectors or serpentine belt pulleys and accessories.
     
  3. Oct 20, 2024 at 1:34 PM
    #3
    MT-Tundra

    MT-Tundra XX

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115150
    Messages:
    811
    Montana
    Vehicle:
    2002 AC 4wd V8 Limited
    Might be you're just paying more attention now, but it's hard to say. I had my truck for about 4 months before I noticed a passenger side tick. I had just got an alignment, and when the shop was done they parked it next to a cement wall, on the passenger side. I thought "damn, what's that ticking??". Kind of scared me. Mine also gets quieter once it's warm. Realized it had been there since I bought the truck, but I only noticed it when it got bounced off a wall straight back at me. I can hear it other times now that I know it's there, but until it jumped out at me that first time, I never heard it.
     
  4. Oct 20, 2024 at 1:36 PM
    #4
    shifty`

    shifty` Light a match to my ass 'cause I'm blowin' up

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,234
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    Damn wish I could remember who it was that recently did their timing belt, and replacing the pulleys and such got rid of the typical sewing-machine-like ticking we all seem to have on our trucks with age…
     
  5. Oct 20, 2024 at 2:35 PM
    #5
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab
    I replaced the TB pulleys, but all of the accessory drive belt pulleys all turn freely with no noise. The noise definitely up near the left cam.

    I checked for the exhaust manifold cracks by using the leaf blower up the exhaust and spraying soapy water over the manifold, no luck there. The injectors sound the same on both sides when using a stethoscope on each injector. That was my first thought, so I poured Techron into the tank for two tanks and now several tanks later, there was no change. My noise does lessen slightly once it’s good and warm , but by no means goes away.

    I had that thought as well, because as we all know, it is a stressful repair based on what could go wrong. When I went to look at the truck, I definitely listened to the engine start up cold and again after the test drive to check for any strange noises and don’t remember hearing anything close to this.

    Thanks everyone, I do appreciate your support and suggestions. Please keep them coming.

    Jack
     
  6. Oct 20, 2024 at 5:50 PM
    #6
    MT-Tundra

    MT-Tundra XX

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115150
    Messages:
    811
    Montana
    Vehicle:
    2002 AC 4wd V8 Limited

    @Weagle ?
     
    Weagle and shifty`[QUOTED] like this.
  7. Oct 20, 2024 at 6:24 PM
    #7
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab
    So I found this post from the 4Runner forum:

    “Well I started this thread on February 3rd. I read somewhere on some forum that the ticking sound could be coming from the VVT gear not being in the proper position when the timing belt is replaced. So I had to check it out as I was positive it was not an exhaust leak. Both exhaust cams were not in the proper time. The VVT gear or sprocket was not preloaded. According to the former owners wife the engine was rebuilt awhile ago. I’m thinking that’s when the noise started but can only confirm that once everything was put into proper alignment I no longer have that ticking sound.”

    Any idea what he is talking about with the VVT gear not being preloaded during the TB change? I haven’t seen that mentioned in any of the TB replacement threads or videos.

    Thank you,

    Jack
     
    Weagle likes this.
  8. Oct 20, 2024 at 9:33 PM
    #8
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2023
    Member:
    #104402
    Messages:
    923
    Gender:
    Male
    Prattville, AL
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 DC 4.7 2WD LSD towing pkg
    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    mine was the one that got rid of a lot of the chatter with the TB replacement, but I believe that was the old pulley bearings that were going bad


    Jack, this is the VVTI gear you were seeking that this gentleman is removing on a 4.7 in the picture below. The full video is a complete teardown of the engine. Normally you don't remove the VVTI gear when you're replacing the timing belt unless replacing the cam seals.

    I can only assume in the post you found they had also replaced the cam seals while changing the TB

    it sounds like you did not remove this and replace the cam seal so the VVTI gear would not be your issue

    wish I could be more help


    IMG_8435.jpg



    pretty good video of this guy breaking down a 4.7 where the old timing belt was totally shredded. yet it turned out the engine was in great shape and they could've simply replaced the timing belt had the engine not been pulled and left out in the rain


    https://youtu.be/99hQ8AowTig?si=dtZ3hpdJ5Err1oUx

    I would love to break mine down and see what kind of shape it is in
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2024
    G_unit3000 and shifty` like this.
  9. Oct 21, 2024 at 4:50 AM
    #9
    shifty`

    shifty` Light a match to my ass 'cause I'm blowin' up

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,234
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    If OP did his cam seals, or anything other than the timing belt, water pump, tensioner an/or pulleys, but failed to mention that, that’s one a hell of a detail to omit!

    I mean, this could be something utterly stupid, like one of the timing cover bolts is loose and the little metal inserts in the cover is rattling. Or maybe they’re like you and one of those fell out but OP didn’t realize it and it’s just waiting to launch into outer space like it did with yours @Weagle.
     
    G_unit3000 and Weagle[QUOTED] like this.
  10. Oct 21, 2024 at 7:26 AM
    #10
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2023
    Member:
    #104402
    Messages:
    923
    Gender:
    Male
    Prattville, AL
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 DC 4.7 2WD LSD towing pkg
    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    I don't think he did or he would know where the VVTI gear is located.

    did you look at that video of the guy tearing down the 4.7? That thing was unbelievably clean and in great shape except for the cylinder walla that had rust and pitting unrelated to the TB failure. I would love to think mine's in that good of shape.
    I geek out on engine rebuilds

    I would love to find one like that that's been left for dead, tear it down get it honed or bored as needed. Maybe drop it in another 1stgen Sequoia or Tundra 4wd that someone decided to part out because of a broken timing belt
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2024
    G_unit3000 and shifty`[QUOTED] like this.
  11. Oct 21, 2024 at 7:40 AM
    #11
    shifty`

    shifty` Light a match to my ass 'cause I'm blowin' up

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2020
    Member:
    #48239
    Messages:
    24,234
    ATL
    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    I did! In fact, a month or two ago, I linked that guy's teardown videos for every engine in our trucks in the 2nd reply of the megathread. Watched each one a couple of times over the years and figured it was worthwhile to link them, so if you ever want/need to see some teardown content to check what you're up against, look no farther than the sticky megathread for that. Love his content.
     
    G_unit3000 and Weagle[QUOTED] like this.
  12. Oct 21, 2024 at 7:42 AM
    #12
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2023
    Member:
    #104402
    Messages:
    923
    Gender:
    Male
    Prattville, AL
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 DC 4.7 2WD LSD towing pkg
    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    That was great for seeing the secondary air pump and starter as well as the oil pump in case I ever have to replace it due to that idler pulley bolt hole Hopefully, I never have to touch either but at least now I have a better idea going into it
     
    shifty`[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Oct 21, 2024 at 7:54 AM
    #13
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2023
    Member:
    #104402
    Messages:
    923
    Gender:
    Male
    Prattville, AL
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 DC 4.7 2WD LSD towing pkg
    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    Jack, you might try a mechanics stethoscope. They have them for eight bucks at Harbor freight Might help you better pinpoint the source of the noise.

    just a thought
     
  14. Oct 21, 2024 at 8:06 AM
    #14
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab

    That makes more sense with cam seal replacement, but no; I didn’t touch mine. Like I mentioned, I couldn’t figure out why that was his “solution” when there is no mention in the FSM, the forum posts, or videos I’ve watched.

    Jack
     
    Weagle[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Oct 21, 2024 at 8:16 AM
    #15
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab
    I did not remove or mess with the actual VVT gear. That’s why I didn’t understand why that person mentioned the gears weren’t pre-loaded. I missed the rebuild comment when reading it as I have read a lot of threads on this subject.

    I have used several versions of stethoscopes to help pinpoint the noise. I used an actual stethoscope, a long metal extension, and a rubber hose and they all put me hearing the noise at the upper left front VVT area.

    I appreciate all of the help and suggestions.

    Jack
     
    Weagle likes this.
  16. Oct 23, 2024 at 5:52 PM
    #16
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab
    Just wanted to update everyone. We tore back into it today. Started with removing the drive belt, the noise was still there. We then removed the VVT solenoid. Everything looked to be in great shape, no sludge and it moved freely. We put power to it and it actuated as it should. So we determined that wasn’t a problem. Next we removed the driver’s side valve cover. Everything looked immaculate, again with no sludge or anything amiss. I rotated the motor and verified that the cams were aligned on both the single and then the double notches. Everything was perfect. So we replaced the valve cover and moved on to tearing the front of the motor off once again. We inspected everything and confirmed that the motor was still in time as everything lined up from crank to cams. The timing belt tensioner pulley spun perfectly smooth after removing the tensioner (there was no indication of there being a clearance problem). After a very close and thorough inspection; we learned…nothing. We put everything back together and the noise is still there. We could find no indication of something hitting, rubbing or touching something it shouldn’t. So, still at a loss as to where the noise is coming from. It’s been making the noise for over 700 miles so far and nothing seems to be getting worse. I guess I’ll keep on running it.
     
    Weagle and G_unit3000 like this.
  17. Oct 25, 2024 at 6:07 AM
    #17
    noahrexion

    noahrexion New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2020
    Member:
    #42020
    Messages:
    224
    Washington
    Vehicle:
    2005 4WD DC
    You change oil at same time - use something thin(ner) or new? Did you dump a bottle of seafoam in crankcase and forget about it :)
     
  18. Oct 27, 2024 at 8:52 PM
    #18
    locrwln

    locrwln [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2024
    Member:
    #115152
    Messages:
    7
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2005 Access Cab
    Just before the TB change. Recommended weight, put synthetic in and after noticing the tick; dropped it and replaced with conventional.

    No flushes or snake oil additives.

    Jack
     

Products Discussed in

To Top