Rear axle seals/bearings.

But this thread clearly shows that guys you pay who have experience doing axle bearings might not know enough to realize that Toyota axles are done differently than Chevy & Ford axles... so they F-up the job.
An owner with a reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude and the right tools may likely have a better chance of doing the job correctly.

IMHO

 

I'd advise against that.

You can put together your own kit with SKF (OEM supplier), Timkin, or BCA and know your getting quality parts for just a little more money. You know better than anyone, this is not a job you want to have to do over just to save $2 on a seal, or $10 on a bearing. IMHO

 

OK, I've got the timken 511031 bearings in my cart waiting to go. If it's the full kit, cool. If not, I think I can just unpress all the "old" stuff off and reuse it. Now, with all the diff juice leaking in there, do I need new drums and shoes? I wouldn't be averse to getting new friction parts. I'd like to get the parts ordered tomorrow, and I'm hoping to get the press ordered on Tuesday. I'm planning on starting this task AGAIN on the Friday after Thanksgiving.

 

Shoes yes, drums can be cleaned (also turned) and re-used.

 

That part number comes back as a stand-alone bearing, not a kit. I went with SKF because it's the OEM -- when I compared them side-by-side, they were indeed identical. I'd get the inner seal from Toyota -- you'll know you're getting the updated version.
Where are you ordering from?

 

Rock auto. Also, the seals are new from the beck arnley kit I put in last time.

 

Having done this buy a lot of brake cleaner or a 5 gallon bucket of solvent and drop the drums in.
Definitely not a job for the dishwasher.

But yeah new shoes for sure

 

I've got that in spades. It's like everytime I visit the parts house I buy 2 cans.

 

Haven't you had these axles in and out a bunch of times? That increases the chances of damaging them. Also, Beck Arnley doesn't have the best reputation for quality. New SKF seals are $4 each.

 

Parts ordered. Press should be ordered tomorrow.

 

OK, so I'm pretty sure I've got it fixed. It's been 300 miles since Panhandlemonium, and no leaks so far. The key is to use that tool and the press the correct way, and have @Sirfive with you to make sure you have a witness to the mangling. Also, have that Timmy video on while you're at the press and follow it STEP BY STEP.

Also, make sure you're not under a stud when pressing.






After the 3rd time it's not that bad, but that 5mm gap on the axle is key. Foreground is 5mm, background is.....who knows.




So yeah, I think I got it. I'll keep an eye on it and if starts leaking, y'all will be the first to know.

Also, I have the press tool and can offer the same deal as @FrenchToasty, albeit this is a solid tool and shipping may get pricey. Just let me know.

 

I <3 that its not leaking. Thankful you let me tag along and learn why it needs to be a certain 5ish mm away from the retainer.

 

We’ll done gents.

Once you do it you realize it’s not rocket surgery. You just need to jump in and get to it.

Nice pics!

 

Beck Arnley doesn't gave the best reputation for quality? Since when?

 

They're "parts store" quality parts. Like you'd get locally at Advance Auto or O'Reilly's... not the worst in the world, but certainly not OEM quality. And frankly, they're way over-priced... IMHO.

 

They're definitely better than all the "white box" brands that Advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc sells.

Pricing isn't bad either.

For example, I bought Beck Arnley ball joints (made in Japan 555s stamped into them) for $20 less each compared to the inferior Chinese Moogs.

That's just one example, can't say where they get all their parts but I believe them to be of higher quality than that from above parts stores.

I will always consider Beck Arnley parts for myself and my customers.

 

OP - regarding the dust, back in 1972 high school auto shop we used to turn drums on a lathe and then mic them to determine the diameter. Once we knew that, we’d radius the new shoes on an arcing machine to match the shoes to the drum. I was taught if you didn’t do this the shoes would wear to the proper shape but with formation of dust and they would have to be readjusted.

Back then shoes were made of asbestos containing materials so be careful and don’t dry blow it. Textbook answer was that oil soaked shoes needed replacing but my old school shop teacher used to put a drain pan under the assembly and spray it down with a can or two of CRC Brakleen and never had any issues. Not sure if modern ceramic brakes are same. Perhaps an engineer can chime in.

 

https://sosperformance.com/products/rear-disc-conversion-with-parking-brake-slash-tr-dot-ps2-dot-ta5

 

As a note:

Timken bearings from RA come with 2 new retainers. And are NACHI brand

I just learned that the hard way. Lol

 

Aint need no 20-ton. Not for the power.

For the size of the frame. I had to cut the main brace and lift the actual press (via some marble blocks I had laying around) The tool @bmf4069 loaned me was just a tadddddd too large.

other than that. It popped everything out with ease. (12-ton)