Door check problems

Ah, well that's pretty obvious once you look at it! So I managed to get it all apart... of course the pieces went everywhere, but looking at the other one I managed to get the squeezy bits back where they belong.

Now for the fun part! I pulled the driver-side door check and low and behold, it's been replaced at least once already. As you can see in the photo, it's built exactly like the inexpensive replacement including the pin at the end to hold everything together.

I was about to throw in the towel but after staring at it for a bit and giving it some thought I figured I really had nothing to lose, so I went ahead and tried disassembling the casing just like we did on the new one. This one didn't have any tabs to bend back, so I gingerly but carefully took the same small flat-blade screwdriver I used to pry the back of the new one off and another low and behold - it came free!

So I pulled the squeezy bits out of the old one. The orange plastic parts had been rubbed flat as expected. I pulled the squeezy bits out of the new one. I put the new bits in the old door check case, pressed the back back on in my vice as best as I could, reinstalled it in the door and, ta-dah... I have a working door check! Phew!

I haven't pulled the passenger side apart, but I'm guessing it's the same story.

For a time I was pretty sure there were a couple expensive door checks in my future. But I was wrong! I hate being wrong. Except this time.

Haven't seen the Toyota replacement. Wonder if that's one of them? Disappointed that it apparently doesn't last any longer than the original. Not surprising though I guess.

Just glad this worked... in a round-about manner anyway.

It was getting dark and I wanted to button things up on the driver's side but I'll post before and after photos of the passenger side when I get it done.

Thanks so much for all of the support, it's truly appreciated.

 

Update to my update above... pulled the passenger side door check and it turned out to be original or similar since it had the part at the top that can be twisted off. I did that and then tried to remove the case as I had on the other one. It didn't have the 4 tabs like the newer one, but no matter how hard I tried to split the case, it just bent the ends and would not open. Upon further inspection I found that the two bolts that attach it to the body had apparently had a couple of tack welds on the back to keep the case from coming apart... ever... again. So it looks like someone replaced the "squeezy bits" before and didn't want it to fall apart. It didn't, and, sadly it won't.

So I threw it back in and I guess I'll either have to pay stupid money for a new one or find a used one somewhere and rebuild it. At this point I think I've worked on it long enough and I'm just going to spring for a new OEM. $90. Why? Dunno. You can buy the same part for the Gen 2 or 3 models for under $30. Insane, but it is what it is.

Thanks again for all of the help! Learned a lot and have gotten very good at removing the door cards!

 

Ended up springing for a new passenger side door check. $90.66 from McGeorge Toyota. I think I could R&R the door panels in my sleep now.

Still no idea why these cost 3 times as much as the ones for later model Tundras... or almost any other vehicle, but it is what it is. Works perfectly (as it should) and the wife will be a happy camper, so that's what's really important.

 

I'm a bit late but some folks have drilled out the tack welds to remove the studs and just replaced with similar sized bolt/nut. That would work also and save you money.

 

Been there done that for the driver side but due to previous owner’s “fix” I wasn’t able to do that for the passenger side. Earlier posts detail the whole saga.

 

Today I attempted to clean out my truck and the self closing doors finally pushed me over the edge. My solution, which only time will tell how long it lasts, was to drive a self tapping screw through the arm where the door is supposed to catch. On one side I seated the head of the screw just abo e flush so the barrel was taller through the catch.
On the other side I seated the head flush with the top of the bar, which mostly expanded the sides.

Now I can swing both doors open and they stay that way. After 5 years it's an amazing feeling.

 

For a mere $18, seller 'scarlettpimp' on fleaBay has repair kits to do it the right way.

One such item: https://www.ebay.com/itm/116273512789

Welcome to the forum. I see you're one of the few Canucks with a Yamaha Edition! Hopefully you post pics, pretty cool package aesthetically.

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I'll have to get some new picture of it. It's actually clean now.

This fix was just because today it finally drive me nuts. All it cost me was 2 self tapping screws. As long as it lasts a little while it'll be worth it.
Once this fails I'll look into doing it proper.

 

This reminded me of my door check that was yanked right out when I bought my truck. Luckily there was one in the parts tote that came with it. Went a little cave man flux core on it, but at least I have a stop now. No detent though...
I should prob paint that mess.

(These welds not approved by @JakeJake )

 

Not bad for a Bangladeshi kid wearing safety squints

 

is that just a rebuild kit or is it supposed to make it tighter/better?

 

Rebuild kit, but I don't have experience. Others on here do, and were happy from that specific seller.

 

I can add my review. It's been about a month since I rebuilt both the rears on my DC. They work great! Door stays open and closes silently.

 

Hmmm.... be aware that these look to be 3D printed. Not that there's a problem with that, but hoping the seller created the original design. It appears the design can be readily found on 3D printing sites.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3486480
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6663791
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4922151

Additionally, PLA is the most common printing material, but it does NOT hold up well to automotive applications due to impact of heat. Even prints in the interior of a car can deform due to heat buildup during the summer. If you have access to a 3D printer use one of the designs above and print your own. I would try PETG or even a high durometer TPU or TPE.

 

Seller experimented with various materials. And suggests routine replacement. He sounds super cool to me from our conversations.