2011 RCLB Work and Play

Welcome to the build up of my Tundra RCLB w/ Work Truck Package. This is the second Gen 2 Tundra that I have owned (along with a 200 Series Land Cruiser), so it’s a very familiar platform for me. Duties will be typical - plowing, towing, and hauling. Improvements will concentrate on helping this HD 1/2 perform these assigned tasks a bit more effectively and comfortably. As nice of a platform as these trucks are, Toyota made some cuts not only on the original model, but also as subsequent model years were introduced, in order to meet a price point and bump profits… so there is much to do. Over the years, most reading this will have seen plenty of the coming upgrades, but maybe a few new items, too.

The truck at purchase w/ only 93k miles. It lived in NY and Maryland, so it’s fairly clean. The only real rust/rot is the typical bed floor areas.

Vinyl floor and hand crank windows, love it!

 

The truck was partially base lined, most fluids changed, and the transmission received a PML deep sump pan. A Snowex 1/2 ton RDV Plow was mounted along with a Odyssey 31S Battery. Rock Warrior Wheels and studded Nokian LT3 315/70R17 tires help push snow on the southern Vermont class 4 road and driveway. The truck may receive a larger Snowex HDV for next season.

 

The TVS R1900 will be supplying air here, but I’m after as much low end and midrange as is possible. A 6.0L short block is being considered.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/6-0l-stroker-discussion.137524/

 

Work truck package seats = no. Comfy suspension seats coming out of storage.

 

Getting ready for the winter season. Not only are a nice set of coil-overs fun for running around and playing, they sure make take away the dips and bumps worries when 600 - 700 pounds is hanging off the front end. Now which set should I install?

 

I'm curious, how much transmission fluid gets replaced when you swap out the deep sump pan. Why or what did you do
to swap this out? How much more trans fluid and does this just help keep the trans cooler? I have no knowledge at all
about auto transmissions. I'm over 60 and aside from my '73 Monte Carlo last century I've never owned an auto car
until this Tundra, and if Toyota made this thing with a stick that's the one I'd have.

 

I guess you have to be careful with this decision, too stiff and the rest of the year your truck will not ride nicely.

 

The stock transmission, pan, and cooler circuit hold about 12 liters. The PML pan adds an additional 3… so total is roughly 15. A pan drain WITH the PML pan is about 7+.

This is a straight pan replacement, not necessary, but I like the idea of added fluid capacity. It probably runs cooler, but how much is a guess at best.

While I own/owned a few autos, I do enjoy driving and keeping my manual transmission vehicles around, mostly Toyota 4x4 and Land Cruisers such as you also have. This truck would be great with a manual (there ware ways, but not with the 5.7). Up until now, I have very limited experience playing with autos other than fluid changes and adding coolers where required (I did help a buddy install a shift kit in a th350, last century, and likely the same trans as your old Monte).

I’ll be adding some Sonnax parts to the valve body on this truck. The line boost and zip kits significantly help with durability, wear in the valve body can be an issue. The thin Toyota WS fluid surely doesn’t help there.

 

For anyone curious, Bilstein 8112 shocks engage the first stage of the internal bump stop with approximately 2.5” of shaft travel remaining. This gives a measurement of 21” from the bottom of the fender to the center of the wheel. From this point, roughly 3.5” of upward wheel travel will be in the 2 stage bump zone.

Almost at full compression.

 

New England edition shocks. A rubber boot and foam bump stop will protect the shaft and seals, greatly extending their service life. HD clear PVC heat shrink tubing is applied to the shock body, it not only reduces wear on the rubber boot , but also chafing to the shock body nickel or paint coatings, which will eliminate any corrosion problems there.

Bump stop cups help improve what bump stops do. They capture the foam bump, not allowing it to be smooshed laterally away from the shaft and body, this allows it work better, and may also increase the life of the part. The TRD Pro Bilsteins have this feature, unfortunately Toyota nixed the foamy bumps for production… and our aftermarket 8112s don’t have it. I probably won’t get to it for this swap, but we certainly can copy the design and apply it in the future.

 

Thanks for the tech info. New England versions- I like that.