What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I would make the passenger side of the truck higher to keep the fluid level below the check plug opening and replace it that way.

 

The immediate problem was just the pulley bearing, so I didn’t have to remove the tensioner itself. Pulled the pulley wheel/bearing and its center bolt, which is reversed (left handed) threads btw. However, your insight wasn’t for nothing. The tensioner did not seem well and recoiled sluggish at best, so I’ll be replacing it soon enough as well.

 

Thanks for the advice!

 

Mine has no crushwash and neither did the donor trans I swapped in. Check the FSE for the torque spec. I remember it being low.

 

Well went out to Harbor Freight and picked up a fastener kit since Lowes didn’t have the right size which is 1/4” for the apron shown below.



Unfortunately, it’s in the wrong hole. It’s hard to feel around for it in the dark. I’ll have to fix that again if I ever get around to it after the storm.

 

Think I'll try a gasket instead of overtorque.

Straight from the 05/06 FSM:

Install the overflow plug with a new gasket.
Torque: 20 N⋅m (205 kgf⋅cm, 15 ft⋅lbf)

Part No from EPC-Data:

$8 35178-30010 luxlead 20 PCS Transmission Drain Plug Gaskets Oil Crush Washer Seal Rings Compatible with Toyota Lexus 4Runner Sequoia Tacoma Tundra Lexus GS450H, IS250/350, LS430, LS460, Replaces 35178-30010

35178-30010

I think I have a grasp of how this works. Hopefully enough to remove and replace while cold and tilted away from the tube.

 

Yeah I didn’t think about us have different trans.

 

Was foiled by a flare nut on the fuel filter, but did get new TYC headlights installed and 3M-restored the fog lights.

Very happy with the TYCs from RA. Thanks for the mega thread advice.

 

Nice, dig through here for higher output lighting options and how they worked out for folks.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...not-led-or-hid-1st-gen-tundra-addition.80653/

 

Quite frankly, the OEM fasteners that are supposed to fit in that hole, they fit like shit and pop out readily. Only seems to be the case with the holes in the strut tower. Why/how is this? Hell if I know, but this has been my [painful] experience.

 

I think the correct hole is elongated like an oval. I’m not sure why but that’s what I felt. Couldn’t get a light on it to confirm unless I wanted to crawl on the ground in my good clothes.

 

Any hole will do

 

Managed to get the foam surrounds in the front cup holders replaced too. If yours look old and ratty like mine did, highly recommend! They cost like $15 and make the interior look so much better. Job took about half an hour.

 

Just the tip, though.

 

Back when I still did my own fluid changes, I never used crush washers. I've got a ton of em too lol

 

"While I'll still take any port in a storm."

 

One of these days I need to do this. Where'd you get them?

 

eBay.

 

Wait, what? What did I do?

 

You know what you’ve done

 

Another Monday, another trip to Tupelo in the FGT. Alright, these ditch pod lights I bought pretty much just suck. Poor light output. I’ve had good luck with Nilight products in general, light bars and such. These just suck. Guess I’ll throw them on the party barge for docking lights. Not spending $400 a pair for pod lights, but I’ll probably step up to a set of Auxbeams.

Shocks also seem to be worn out, or underperforming at best. I’m sure the E rated meats aren’t helping. Considering OME or Eibach Pros for my next set.

 

Didn't you just replace those shocks?

 

No, everything but. These 5100s have been on the front for 55k miles (second set) or so and the rears closer to 110k (still on the first set).

 

Setting up some dashboards in OBD Fusion for towing the camper. Still playing around with it. Crazy how low the transmission fluid temp stays when driving. Must not have a thermostat, or it’s wide open all the time for some reason.

 

Is the temp based upon a formula or is it a direct temp sensor measurement? If it’s based upon a formula, maybe you can manipulate/view the actual measured data to see how it responds?

 

It’s actual temp from the sensor. To be fair, it’s 21° outside

 

I think it’s wide open and the cooler works that well. I had a hell of a time getting mine to temp when doing the fluid level check; fluid level check for the 4r w/o cooler took maybe 15 minutes to get to temp

 

Our trucks have low washer fluid sensors??