Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Nimble with mad skills

 

Nailed it.

 

So when should injectors and plugs go in? I could do them now or during or after.

 

We added the Wholesale Auto Extreme Duty VB to our site and are set up with the US distributor to be able to help get these into Tundra owners hands! https://www.turbokits.com/2007-2021-tundra-5-7l-6at-extreme-heavy-duty-valve-body-upgrade.html

 

Yeah, per our email conversation. You can install the full front mount intercooler and piping and water meth and prep the areas for the hot side piping, gauge install, etc without taking the truck off the road for more than a days worth of work. And you can pretty much stop at any step and get back on the road if needed.

 

The injectors would require a retune, which would be best to be linked to the high flow MAF scaling, so there isn't an extra tuning step. The spark plugs can go in anytime.

 

That was kinda my thinking. The 1 step colder plugs wouldn't be a real issue but the injectors and scaling would be.

 

Well this is certainly something. Congrats!!!!

EDIT: Oh! Per WATs website regarding the Extreme VB Upgrade:

"We are talking about engine power or torque that is greater than 50% than what came out of the factory. A word of warning though, the Heavy Duty Extreme Valve Body can be quite thumpy in the gear changes at low throttle. ie. if you are driving in heavy traffic at 10 to 30km/h. This is a result of the increase to the pressures for the clutch packs so that there is much greater clamping ability during the gear change."

Based on the calculator, this is 5-20mph. I suspect it can be overcome by utilizing S1/S2 instead of Drive and letting it try to shift itself up to 3rd or 4th. Probably better for the brakes, too.

 

When you scan the QR code for the instructions and it comes back not found.

 

AEM got bought by Holley and they changed around a bunch of site listing stuff.

New Product Page - https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/water_methanol/forced_induction/parts/30-3300

New Instruction Link - https://documents.aemelectronics.com/eb61b8684cd91b3eb3b4b0f1d8d0cb9abafd9aa8.pdf

If you download and view our Stage 1 instructions, it does go over where we mounted it as well.

Thanks!

 

Shifting would be equivalent to what some IPT VB upgrades experience.

 

Ya I should have read your directions a little more thoroughly. Mounted the tank on the passenger side of the bed instead of driver. Oops. I’ve got nutserts so no biggie.

I did start pulling cable and vac hose for the meth system. Was hoping to get it pretty much wrapped today but the previous owner jacked with the mid pipe so there’s a cat where the pump should be. Oh well.

 

looking clean so far. My OCD is pleased with the wire run!

 

Note to self. Don’t show Jesse pictures of the finished wiring for fear of triggering him.

 

That's funny! I look at the wires and I'm crying on the inside because my brain doesn't work like that anymore. lol

 

I started with the water/meth kit install too. I have a 42 min. video about it but still in progress. Here are some photos of the actual view.

Added a filter below the tank.



This is how it looks behind the bed panel. The wire harness comes from the top and the water /meth hose is the one going out from the rubber grommet.







I had 2 20ft hose here is the union.







Hose not visible behind the mud guard. Harness already relocated on this pic.



Solenoid installed using a custom mount.



Solenoid mounted in the front passanger side.



This is the relays box.



Installed the controller here but I don't like it anymore. I will change it from here.



Status LED installed in gauge mount.



One of theses switches will be used to have an easy way to turn it on/off



Hope this help!

 

Whoa, that's coming out great!

 

That’s really nice and clean @Jego

I got the meth kit about 70% done. Tank is remounted, level sensor wired in to the harness, meth line routed to the engine bay and zip tied out of the way for the moment. Going to steal jego’s idea for the solenoid mount. I got the wiring harness pulled into the truck and over to the glovebox but I don’t think I want to mount it there. All in all I’ve got about 3.5hrs into it today.

Was looking at the gauge pod and decided to order a Rago dash mount and will mount the meth controller and scan gauge there. Still in my eye line while driving and something different. Gonna suck running the wires up there but it was gonna suck doing it to the pillar also so meh.

My plan tomorrow is the boost solenoid, map sensor, meth solenoid (annoyed I’ve got to find screws that fit it since it didn’t come with any), and then start moving the fuse box and wiring around.

What’s everyone using for a switched 12v source?

 

Nice!

For the 12v power source, in my case... a fuse tap to the lighter adapter circuit will power the switch panel. This way when the truck is off all relays will be turned off by default even if a switch (from the panel) is in the On position.

Here are better photos of the solenoid. I used a recycled radio mount bracket and 2 aluminum rivets.

 

That’ll work and what my plan was as well. I’ve got a 8 circuit relay box from Amazon I was going to utilize for this.

 

Meth and map mounted. Boost solenoid is going to go back towards the firewall on the fender but need some longer self tappers.

 

Disregard previous post: Based on photos, I think you are correct. Language referenced:

2.4 MAP sensor 1. The MAP sensor MUST be installed with the hose fitting facing down.

 

It's downwards so no moisture or any vapor build up sits on the electronics.

 

That is the part I was fuzzy on. For the life of me I couldn't remember where the port was on it, I just knew they wanted it down. The engine bay is far more convenient to access than behind the dash.

 

The highlighted statement above made me think to install the map sensor in the interior. The vacuum hose have to go into the interior anyways for the gauge and w/m controller, but I see how covenient is to install it in the engine bay.

 

We've had them installed both in the engine bay and under the dash and did not have any issues either way.

 

I installed mine here on the left of the brake booster.

 

Started the wiring harness relocation. Got nearly done and realized I don’t have a 2.5” hole saw. I have a 2” and a 3” but not a 2.5”. Fairly straight forward process. I’ll pick up the saw tonight and finish that and the heat tape wrap tomorrow. So far today I’m about 2.5hrs into it and the hardest part was pulling the dang fender liner out. Who designed those ridiculous clips?

 

Cranking along!!! and Yes, those clips are horrible, but they don't come out, even if you want them to!