What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I know there has been some radiator talk here recently.
My contribution:
Bottom seal on my radiator failed recently. FSM shows the repair procedure. Although it's a money saver, looks like a pain in the ass for a questionable repair.
I've had 3 of these fail in 5 years. 1st was internal - pink milkshake. 2nd was upper seal and the 3rd, bottom seal. ('seal' being the huge 'o-rings' that seal between the aluminium body and plastic bodies).
Found a local company making full aluminium radiators, very well built, and with a lifetime warranty. They specialize in hot rod builds, so no surprise the level of craftsmanship there. Complete with brass drain-valve and 13 lb. cap. This one is quite a bit thicker than OEM, holding more fluid and with 3 rows of cores, but still fits where it goes nicely. Happy to find these guys. Champion Cooling Systems @ Ledfoot Racing in City of Orange, CA. George is the man

 

Man! That's one beefy radiator. Looks good.

 

Does this have the plumbing for the transmission heater / cooler functions?

 

I would question if they can actually get them. I have t checked in a while but they seem to be back ordered with no ETA.

 

What did it cost?

 

Dude! Looks like you sprayed it with popcorn ceiling texture.

 

Was this a custom radiator that they made for you or something they already build?

 

Thanks. I actually got an in-lb torque wrench not too long ago. Checked the FSM and, yes, it's 53 in-lb. As I expected, a short search reveals that there is a pattern and method to torque those bolts. Seems like a simple task. I'll run down the other items as I can fit them in between caring for my dad who just had a knee replaced. Once he feels better (and the temps go up a little) I got all the parts to upgrade the tailgate clips on both the 02 and his 03. Seems like a job he can do with me from a shop chair.

 

This one?
https://shop.championcooling.com/2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-2006-Toyota-Tundra

I can dig it.

 

As far as torquing, I can't remember what's in the FSM, I just torque the way I torque every valve cover.

Snug up the 4 center-most bolts criss-cross, by hand (2 top, 2 bottom)
Snug remaining outers, criss-cross middle to outside, by hand
Criss-cross torque the 4 center most bolts to spec
Snug remaining outers, cross-cross middle to outside

IIRC, there are 9 bolts total, with the cam tower side having that oddball 9th bolt in the middle.

 

Huh. '05-'06 FSM is so helpful in this topic (not!):

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I start with the center 4 in a criss-cross box. Then do the outer 4 in a criss cross box, then the oddball cam tower.

 

This may have already been discussed but per a YouTube Video I watched, lots of folks have broken off the rear most bolt when removing (both passenger and drivers side) covers. I seem to always have bad luck when doing these things and wondered if anyone had advice such as pre treat w/ penetrater, etc..

 

When in doubt, center out

 

Here is a heads up for some of yall whose trucks are reaching 25 years old.

I have had very few issues with my truck but one reoccurring issue has been related to the electrical system.

the first instance I had is when I bought the truck seven years ago. It always seemed like the headlights were dim. At first I didn’t think much of it except perhaps the bulbs were aged. I replaced the headlight bulbs and they were still dimmer than I thought they should be.

Another issue I was having at the same time is I could t deactivate the daytime running lights. I unplugged the connector by the battery and they would stay on. I spent several days scratching my head and looking at wiring schematics to figure out the issue the whole time was a daytime running lights relay under the hood was bad. Replaced this relay and the headlights got brighter and unplugging the daytime running lights connector next to the battery actually disabled the drl.

yesterday I was installing a light switch panel made by auxbeam. This panel uses a switched circuit to turn the panel on and off with the ignition key. When I tried to use the outlet fuse to trigger this switch panel it would malfunction.

turns out the outlet relay under the hood was weak and not providing proper voltage when triggered. I tried swapping it with my headlight relay and that relay was weak as well.

all this being said. These relays are failing in our trucks. If you have weird electrical issues that use a relay to activate the circuit swap the relay before pulling your hair out.

 

Link to the relay I am referring to

$16 Denso 567-0015 Relay

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ06UQY

 

Indeed it does.

If you buy it online, the cost is $275 plus tax and $30 flat rate shipping. Shipping is extra if you add any options. They have a billet overflow available, braided stainless steel hoses, etc. think ‘hot rod’ stuff. However, since it’s local to me, I picked it up so no shipping. He also said if I paid cash he wouldn’t charge tax, so I did that as well. $275 out the door. Would be around $340 for anyone ordering to ship, which is still a great price IMO, considering the mishimoto is upwards of $500.

They don’t usually stock them because he sells about 1 per month but he said he could have one ready to go in 1-2 days.

 

Salty…



Wanted to clean it but that wasn’t gonna happen.

 

Yeah, the "search" I mentioned when looking for the torque pattern and method was Google not the FSM. Plus, I am finding that I don't know the "FSM-correct" terms for a lot of things. For instance, if you search the FSM for "valve cover" you'll get exactly nothing. As seen in your diagram, ya gotta know to search for "cylinder head cover".

 

Well, it was a month or so back, but I replaced all 3 HVAC control knobs. I was trying to select a different mode with the far right control when I heard this awful sound of plastic disintegrating. I was worried that the control shaft had broken. Thankfully, it was just the square hole in the back of the knob that fits over that shaft. Since they were all 20+ years old, I figured that I'd better replace them all at once. Decided to use the dealer because they can usually get stuff overnight for no extra charge. I paid through the nose, but they were all replaced quickly. It was worth it to me because our weather is all over the place this time of year.

 

Someone needs to make an OEM-quality relay replacement pack for our trucks.

I'd never buy it if it came from Amazon, shit'd probably be fake, but I'd hop all over it if it was only $100-150 or something and did the big ones (lights, fuel, starter, etc.)

 

I plugged a vacuum into my tailpipe (not like that) and turned it on to try and find an exhaust leak. I found some holes in my muffler but nothing else obvious. I’ll have to check more thoroughly because I’m hearing a ticking when accelerating. I don’t hear it when revving the engine while parked; only while driving.
I also found a small leak on the hose from the air control valve below highlighted in red. There’s a metal fitting that seems to be the cause that is hidden by the hose circled in green.

 

I'm betting it's an exhaust manifold gasket or a cranked manifold

 

That’s what I’m hoping it’s not. But I have a sick feeling you’re right. Is there a way to narrow it down better? Or just spray soapy water and repeat with the shop vac? Or go ahead and replace both?

 

I just know I had a leaking gasket on my passenger header straight from the exhaust shop and it ticked louder as I accelerated. I took it back and had him use a different gasket and that fixed it

 

This is where they “crack” or split. Could try soapy water to see bubbles.

 

That’s where mine was as well. Replaced with jba shorties.

 

Question, I too try not to but from scAmazon but in his case the relay says” Shipped from and Sold by Amazon”. Doesn’t that put Amazon on the hook legally if they were selling counterfeit parts themselves? I got a case of Toyota oil filters for my truck from Walmart because they were both sold by and shipped from Walmart. Walmart has too much to lose to be selling counterfeit stuff directly. (At least this has been my thinking in the past). Anyone else have any thoughts on this?

 

Walmart is who sold me counterfeit AirPods. Directly out of their electronics case at the store.

 

What made you realize they were counterfeit?

 

They wouldn’t cycle through the AirPod modes. They sounded like ass. They weren’t in the clear wrap like all other apple products come in. People said I sounded like crap when we talked on the phone. Took them back and ordered direct from apple. Those have been great.