What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Huh. '05-'06 FSM is so helpful in this topic (not!):

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I start with the center 4 in a criss-cross box. Then do the outer 4 in a criss cross box, then the oddball cam tower.

 

This may have already been discussed but per a YouTube Video I watched, lots of folks have broken off the rear most bolt when removing (both passenger and drivers side) covers. I seem to always have bad luck when doing these things and wondered if anyone had advice such as pre treat w/ penetrater, etc..

 

When in doubt, center out

 

Here is a heads up for some of yall whose trucks are reaching 25 years old.

I have had very few issues with my truck but one reoccurring issue has been related to the electrical system.

the first instance I had is when I bought the truck seven years ago. It always seemed like the headlights were dim. At first I didn’t think much of it except perhaps the bulbs were aged. I replaced the headlight bulbs and they were still dimmer than I thought they should be.

Another issue I was having at the same time is I could t deactivate the daytime running lights. I unplugged the connector by the battery and they would stay on. I spent several days scratching my head and looking at wiring schematics to figure out the issue the whole time was a daytime running lights relay under the hood was bad. Replaced this relay and the headlights got brighter and unplugging the daytime running lights connector next to the battery actually disabled the drl.

yesterday I was installing a light switch panel made by auxbeam. This panel uses a switched circuit to turn the panel on and off with the ignition key. When I tried to use the outlet fuse to trigger this switch panel it would malfunction.

turns out the outlet relay under the hood was weak and not providing proper voltage when triggered. I tried swapping it with my headlight relay and that relay was weak as well.

all this being said. These relays are failing in our trucks. If you have weird electrical issues that use a relay to activate the circuit swap the relay before pulling your hair out.

 

Link to the relay I am referring to

$16 Denso 567-0015 Relay

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQ06UQY

 

Indeed it does.

If you buy it online, the cost is $275 plus tax and $30 flat rate shipping. Shipping is extra if you add any options. They have a billet overflow available, braided stainless steel hoses, etc. think ‘hot rod’ stuff. However, since it’s local to me, I picked it up so no shipping. He also said if I paid cash he wouldn’t charge tax, so I did that as well. $275 out the door. Would be around $340 for anyone ordering to ship, which is still a great price IMO, considering the mishimoto is upwards of $500.

They don’t usually stock them because he sells about 1 per month but he said he could have one ready to go in 1-2 days.

 

Salty…



Wanted to clean it but that wasn’t gonna happen.

 

Yeah, the "search" I mentioned when looking for the torque pattern and method was Google not the FSM. Plus, I am finding that I don't know the "FSM-correct" terms for a lot of things. For instance, if you search the FSM for "valve cover" you'll get exactly nothing. As seen in your diagram, ya gotta know to search for "cylinder head cover".

 

Well, it was a month or so back, but I replaced all 3 HVAC control knobs. I was trying to select a different mode with the far right control when I heard this awful sound of plastic disintegrating. I was worried that the control shaft had broken. Thankfully, it was just the square hole in the back of the knob that fits over that shaft. Since they were all 20+ years old, I figured that I'd better replace them all at once. Decided to use the dealer because they can usually get stuff overnight for no extra charge. I paid through the nose, but they were all replaced quickly. It was worth it to me because our weather is all over the place this time of year.

 

Someone needs to make an OEM-quality relay replacement pack for our trucks.

I'd never buy it if it came from Amazon, shit'd probably be fake, but I'd hop all over it if it was only $100-150 or something and did the big ones (lights, fuel, starter, etc.)

 

I plugged a vacuum into my tailpipe (not like that) and turned it on to try and find an exhaust leak. I found some holes in my muffler but nothing else obvious. I’ll have to check more thoroughly because I’m hearing a ticking when accelerating. I don’t hear it when revving the engine while parked; only while driving.
I also found a small leak on the hose from the air control valve below highlighted in red. There’s a metal fitting that seems to be the cause that is hidden by the hose circled in green.

 

I'm betting it's an exhaust manifold gasket or a cranked manifold

 

That’s what I’m hoping it’s not. But I have a sick feeling you’re right. Is there a way to narrow it down better? Or just spray soapy water and repeat with the shop vac? Or go ahead and replace both?

 

I just know I had a leaking gasket on my passenger header straight from the exhaust shop and it ticked louder as I accelerated. I took it back and had him use a different gasket and that fixed it

 

This is where they “crack” or split. Could try soapy water to see bubbles.

 

That’s where mine was as well. Replaced with jba shorties.

 

Question, I too try not to but from scAmazon but in his case the relay says” Shipped from and Sold by Amazon”. Doesn’t that put Amazon on the hook legally if they were selling counterfeit parts themselves? I got a case of Toyota oil filters for my truck from Walmart because they were both sold by and shipped from Walmart. Walmart has too much to lose to be selling counterfeit stuff directly. (At least this has been my thinking in the past). Anyone else have any thoughts on this?

 

Walmart is who sold me counterfeit AirPods. Directly out of their electronics case at the store.

 

What made you realize they were counterfeit?

 

They wouldn’t cycle through the AirPod modes. They sounded like ass. They weren’t in the clear wrap like all other apple products come in. People said I sounded like crap when we talked on the phone. Took them back and ordered direct from apple. Those have been great.

 

10-15 deg all weekend (truck sits outside), 3deg this morning, and besides the slightly slower crank she fired right up like the champ she is. Going to pretend what I did fixed it... until it didn't.

 

Friday your last day?

 

Doing day 10 right now, so no. Monday 3-3-25, I'll have a REAL case of the Monday's I promise...

 

That's exactly when they will be fake. Amazon receives product from multiple vendors and puts them in one big box, some vendors have real product and some have fake, they're all in the same box to be grabbed from. That's what I've always heard anyway.

 

I've personally seen a case of a counterfeit hood on a Camry that a customer had replaced at another body shop.

It was....strange. The hood structural support foam was missing under the insulation panel, the underside stamped design was slightly off and the "Toyota" logo stamp was not in the right location or orientation.

We had a training video on this issue not too long ago. OEM parts sold from anything other than an authorized dealer are to be scrutinized. "OPT-OEM" are supposed to be discounted "OEM" parts, BUT they can be counterfeit, stolen or any other scandalous term.

 

Me likey, post a link

 

Any idea if they make one for the 5VZ-FE V6 thats in my FGT?

Im in So Cal too and not far away from them. Id definitely be interested in this as an upgrade down the road!

 

What he said. But …

@MooreKen when was the last time you saw someone try to sue scAmazon over fakes? There is literally no reason for them to bother with validating their inventory, it’s not good for business and there’s no repercussion for failure to do so. And we have had some consumer protection legislation put in place very recently, but that’s likely to get repealed/killed/nerfed in the next year or two, because consumer protections are bad for business.

But yes. Any time you buy from scAmazon or fleaBay, you are at risk. May as well be Alibaba or Temu. I wrote a long reply on why this is. If you search for “fulfilled by” against my name here, you’ll find it. It explains in greater detail why it is. Short story is, “shared inventory bins at warehouses” and “no attempt to validate authenticity on arrival of inventory shipments”. They make vendors pay extra to keep their merch separate. That and wrong stuff can get returned to wrong bin.

 

Probably a customer bought genuine ones, then returned cheap fake ones in the packaging, employees didn't notice and just put them back up for sale. Or an employee did it themselves.

 

This is a pretty common thing people do. My brother at a sporting goods/gun store recently had somebody order a $600 range finder online, then return a $60 one in the box. The employee receiving the return (usually young college students) failed to verify it was actually the right range finder in the box, and the dude got refunded and got away with it. And now I have it Happens a lot with optics. Cheap Chinese airsoft clones of acogs and eotechs etc.