Our 1st Toyota

Thank you for the welcome and the forum. My wife and I moved up to Iron county Wisconsin in '22. Winter can last about 6 months here so we traded the Malibu in for a 2012 Tundra TRD and installed a snowplow. I went around and around searching for a parasitic voltage draw last year. I had no luck trouble shooting the on the fuse panel a couple differant ways, I took it back to the guy that installed the plow, maybe that had something to do with it. Turned out the spare tire was oem and not holding pressure. I still put a battery tender on it.
Well now comes to why I'm here. After plowing about 5-6" of very heavy wet snow the truck went into limp mode. I put a Blue Driver scanner on it. Here are the codes that came up, Electric Motor Power Steering C1547 Vehicle Speed Sencor, Antilock Brake System C1201 Engine Control System Malfunction, C1241 Low or High Power Supply Voltage. I don't think its the C1241 code since the battery and terminals nice and clean. I tried doing a search with no luck. Not sure if I'm doing it right. Any assistance would be really appreciated.

 

Pics?

 

Battery might be bad. Parasitic draw should be easy to isolate. Unhook the ground cable, put your meter between it and the battery and look for DC current. Start pulling suspicious fuses first to find when the current drops. Typical sources are aftermarket parts and corrosion in sockets, circuit boards and connectors.

 

Welcome from NY.

You will get a better response if you post that in here.........

https://www.tundras.com/forums/2nd-gen-tundras-2007-2013.26/

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! I think I've seen some threads where damage to the anti-lock modules behind the wheels made trucks go into limp mode. There are even some protective covers people have bought and put on them.

 

I'm a noob, not sure if I'm doing this right.

To KNABORES- Myself and th guy that installed the snowplow did the parasitic draw trouble shooting on the fuse panels with no luck.The snowplow guy determined the issue was the spare tire that didn't hold air. so I believe thats fixed. But I will dbl check the battery and check how many milliamps its drawing after disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 30 minutes. I even sprang for a Fluke mutimeter.

To Jim LE 1301- I will try

To Bakershack- Thank you

Thanks for the responces

 

Snow plow guy is full of shit unless I'm not following. Spare tire should have nothing to do with the draw. Most likely it's something about how the plow is wired. As Knabores said it could be a bad battery causing your issues, especially if the draw has killed the battery a couple times.

 

Ok thanks, yep killed one new battery but thats when we found out there was an issue. No more dead batteries since. I suspect you are right about the "plow" job. This is a small shop 1-2 guys, they install a lot of snowplows and wrench on vehicles. It looked like a sano job when they installed our plow, it operates great. So now I keep a battery tender on if its parked for more than a couple of days. Alls been fine untill, the last Heavy plow 5-6". After that I was stuck in 4Lo flashing and beeping. I jioned Alldata to look up the codes, well I now I need a Techstream. I checked out the chinese knock offs on ebay, thats really confusing. Any recomendations?

Thanks

 

No idea what a tire that doesn't hold air has to do with a parasitic draw? None of my tires are in any way powered by the battery.

When you do a parasitic draw test, step one is seeing how much current is leaving the battery continuously when the vehicle is turned off. Then pull fuses to suspicious systems until the current drops. There's no way to do the test and not find where the current is going. You may not be able to pinpoint the exact spot or issue, but you will know what fuse the current is linked to. Then you can sort through that system or component and find the issue.

 

Maybe the plow is using more current than the alternator can supply?