What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Oh, and I'd be an asshole if I didn't show the tip of my old antenna and its wear-down from years of parking deck ceiling and garage door dragging.

Just the tip.

 

Ordering a PCV valve for my 2004 (screw type, no grommet) - do I need OEM? If so, who makes the OEM valve?

 

biometrics says you looked at those for 126sec.

 

$10-15 from dealer, P/N

$18 12204-50030 TOYOTA Genuine Parts - Valve Sub-Assy, Vent (12204-50030)

12204-50030

 

Agree with the information others have shared about this, but I want to say that replacing the springs is really important. I replaced my shocks with new 4600s, but it turns out that my biggest issue was that the springs were worn out. A year later, and the springs are so shot that it bottoms out on nearly every bump. Brutal.

EDIT: Just realized that it's got aftermarket strut assemblies with non-reusable springs.

 

Ordered - $25.66 out the door.

East Bay Area, Kommiefornia

 

I paid $10.70 plus $0.91 tax the other day down in SD which is why I have the P/N handy. There's a slightly closer dealer to me, but they charge full MSRP.

There's some dealers on the east coast that have decent pricing and free shipping if you spend enough, sometimes there are even better sales through them like a 25% off that just ended.

@shifty` has some good advice here.

 

Teeing off @des2mtn 's excellent reply...

I took the zip code of my previous employer's office on Sacramento St. downtown SFO (94111), and plugged it into the Toyota Parts system for part 12204-50030.

It gives me the three dealers below as the closest nearby "participating dealer" options. I found the following by clicking the 'Shop this Dealer' button, then the BACK button, then the 'Shop this Dealer' button for each:

• SFO Toyota : $12.52 before tax if you order via the Toyota parts website instead of at the counter; basically half what you paid, and you walk straight into the same parts counter to pick it up, while paying half as much.
• Walnut Creek : $11.79 before tax if you order via the national parts website instead of at the counter; even cheaper still
• Swickard 101 : Also $11.79 before tax thru the nat'l website.

Bottom line:

If you'll take a minute to read the sticky thread section, like this one for example which covers parts, or this one that covers shedloads of 1st gen info, you can potentially save a veritable FUCKTON of money and potential hassle/failures. You can save upwards of 40%, 50% or even more on parts, and with some of these parts having an MSRP of $700+, that savings is substantial. Sometimes the same price as shittier aftermarket parts, or cheaper than the aftermarket!

YMMV, different regions/areas have different participating dealers, this is a better option for people like us near big cities. Being in the Bay Area, I think the example I'm showing you should prove, you can save considerably.

​

 

Don't know if you've been helped yet, but as I see it...

You're only course of action is to drill out a 6mm or 6.5mm hole and stick an M6 bolt through it to "replace" your studs. You may be able to permanently attach them with jb welb

Or replace that piece of body work entirely

 

Shit. I just remembered, you're in Cali.

For the record, my "fuckton" reference, I don't want to be confusing. I'm not speaking in California terms of "metric fuckton" which I believe is 420g³. My usage is purely figurative. "A lot".

 

Only time reception really makes a difference is when you have marginal reception originally.

Optimal length for the highest passive gain is a little over 1/2 wavelength of the frequency you’re trying to tune using a monopole antenna.

 

Here's the sawhorse set up pretty simple. 48" boards connecting them. Allows sufficient length for bottom side of bed to sit on

 

Thank you--yup, thats exactly what I ended up doing--just finished it yesterday. Drilled them out and added 1/4inch bolts with washers and nuts. Seems to be working well, also replaced the plastic push panel clips holding the side marker and light assembly that are prone to rotting away and breaking after a while. https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~clip~luggage~compartment~90080-46294.html

 

This reminds me. I was going to look around and see if anyone makes a basic scissorjack that I could use to lift my shell enough to redo the seals, pull my bedliner, then potentially drill and fill the hairline crack in my shell. I'm super limited on space, and the bottom flare on these Leer 100R isn't conducive to laying on the ground.

 

This is my setup. I have some sawhorses underneath. I’m going to have a buddy help get my topper off and rent an engine joist to remove my current bed. I’m gonna give myself a cookie if I can do it all this weekend.

 

Yeah…. The previous owner mounted them himself which leads me to believe there was no alignment done. Amazingly it drives great on the highway but since I put $1300 tires on it it would be nice to make sure it’s aligned properly.

I’m very much a NOVICE when it comes to suspension but I think I have narrowed down what I need and it’s actually not too expensive. I’m tax exempt at Tire rack and Rock Auto so I’ll probably get them there. I did notice that the ARB (Old Man Emu) site said that 2883/ 2884 were not compatible with my truck but I think they work fine (per you guys) And it looks as though KYB Strut Mount Plates SM5413 is now superseded with

$31 SM5442 - Mount and Insulator

SM5442.

In a nutshell as long as I go with either 4600 or 5100 Bilsteins and OME 2884 Springs and get 2 KYB Strut Mount Plates …. I should theoretically be able to keep my trucks current appearance and fingers crossed improve my ride quality.

 

Got my blocks. Going to install them. iOS 18.4.1 and CarPlay holding strong. Glad I don't have to replace my stereo head unit. Just got an oil change. Oil pan seal is leaking a bit, but not enough to do anything about right now. So is my tail seal but not enough to worry about right now.

 

Wow, the pan is leaking? Has it ever been dropped before? We rarely ever see pan leaks on here unless someone popped it off at some point. I dunno wtf they sealed the pans with from the factory, but I wish they would've done the same on the valve covers...

 

Meanwhile, the richie-riches over in Ketchum are probably, like, "Who the fuck stole my street sign?!"

Love it!

 

Softopper Deal if anyone is in the market.

 

Scared this sum bitch so bad I made it shut down

 

Is that a manx, or is its tail just tucked away?

Just chillin' in that there garbage or what?

 

Based on appearance alone, looks like a definite upgrade that I'll do. Will stayed tuned for the functionality report after you get a chance to try it for a while

 

It was accidentally locked in my MIL's garage for almost a month. I'm guessing it ate it's tail

Animals are more hard core than any of us could ever hope to be

 

Add-a-add-a-add-a-add-a-add-a-leaf.

 

I dunno man, there are some pretty hardcore MF out there: https://www.cmu.edu/magazine/03fall/aralston.html

 

I am whooped.

LBJ's, Tie rod inners and outers, dust boots all done. All OEM, minus the MOOG inners.

The outer tie rods originally installed
were aftermarket. The LBJs were too. Both side LBJs had 15mm bolts instead of the 17mm that is OEM. The driver side LBJ castle nut was a whooping 27mm! The passenger side was 24mm. Very, very odd. Had to make 2 trips to the parts store. Broke 2 LBJ removal tools, but advance swapped it out so I only paid once. It was garbage quality anyway.

 

Congrats dude. I'm personally not a fan of that specific style of puller.

Meanwhile, it's worthwhile to keep a yellow paint pen on-hand. I mark the position of my bolt heads, marking the head and the LBJ with a line. I check them after a few hundo miles to make sure they haven't moved, and usually peek over at them at every oil change to be sure. I do this with any "mission critical" bolts where failure would be a 'bad day'.

 

Thank buddy. Good idea. I'll do that now.

Removing the LBJs were a pain in the ass. They were both stuck on really, really good. Bought an $8 fork tool from harbor freight to use after both of those garbage tools broke.