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100K Maintenance Help

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Tiptop93, Apr 19, 2025 at 9:11 PM.

  1. Apr 19, 2025 at 9:11 PM
    #1
    Tiptop93

    Tiptop93 [OP] New Member

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    2019 Toyota Tundra Limited 4x4 TRD Off Road
    Hello all!
    Just purchased my first Toyota, a 2019 Toyota Tundra Limited 4x4 TRD Off Road at 95K miles. I am quickly approaching 100K and wanted to do the service myself. Being a marine engineer how has to service lots of equipment onboard, I made an excel spreadsheet of recommended services. The previous owner serviced the engine oil and filters on time but lacked on some of the other services (transmission, coolant, 4x4) and used it as a work truck, as the bed is pretty beat up. What I have read online (Forums and Care Care Nut) conflicts what the dealerships are telling me. Below are the services I am planning on having done, please let me know your thoughts and if there is anything I should add or hold off on doing. Hesitant doing the transmission and differential oil replacements might do more harm than good. I plan on having the dealership do the tire rotation and coolant replacement since they have the vacuum tool but plan on doing the other services myself. I have not worked on cars (only my motorcycle) since I live at sea/abroad 90% of the year since my job gives me a car to use when in port. The truck was used in Northern Virginia previously and the undercarriage is clean with very little rust, but now sits next to the ICW in Florida.

    100K Planned Service:
    Dealership Services:
    -Tire Rotation
    -Coolant Replacement: Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (50/50)

    Tiptop93 Services:
    -Transmission Oil Replacement: Toyota Genuine ATF WS(12.3 qt/11.6L) (I'm hesitant to do this because it is at 100K and have read to forgo the services and pray it has a long life at this point)
    -Engine Oil and Filter (0W-20, 8.5qt/8L) (P/N: 04152-YZZA4)
    -Front Differential Oil Replacement: Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 (2.2 qt/2.05L)
    -Rear Differential Oil Replacement: Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 (4.0 qt/3.5L)
    -Transfer Case Oil Replacement: Toyota Genuine Transfer Gear Oil LF (SAE 75W)(1.6 qt/1.5L) OR Redline Oil
    -Test Brake Fluid Water Content (FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3 or SAE J1703)
    -Inspect Cabin Air Filter (P/N: 8713950100)
    -Inspect Engine Air Filter (P/N: 178010P100)
    -General Inspection of Hoses
    -Brakes and Tires New at 95K

    Recommended Adds:
    Seafoam in fuel tank and crankcase prior to service
    Spark Plug Replacement (P/N: Denso SK20HR11) (Iridium Tipped) Gap: 0.043in (1.1mm)
    Serpentine Belt Replacement (P/N: 90916A2033) (Inspect water pump for leakage with belt off)
    Power Steering Fluid Replacement: (ATF Dexron II or III)
    PCV Replacement (P/N: 1220438030)
    Throttle Body Cleaning
    MAF Sensor Cleaning (MAF Cleaner)
    Check for drive shaft zerks
    Check for Slip Yoke Zerk
    Test battery/Top up with DI water

    Order oil drain sealing washer/crush washer
    Order transfer case drain sealing washer/plug
    Order 2x differential sealing washer/crush washer

    Any other 4x4 services that should get done (re-torquing, greasing, etc)?

    Thank you all!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 23, 2025 at 4:19 PM
  2. Apr 19, 2025 at 9:21 PM
    #2
    JLS in WA

    JLS in WA New Member

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    Somewhere in the basalt rocks with my dogs
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    Spark plugs?

    I would do everything you’ve listed.

    Replace the serpentine belt.

    I would also replace the power steering fluid.
     
    Tiptop93[OP] likes this.
  3. Apr 19, 2025 at 9:27 PM
    #3
    Tiptop93

    Tiptop93 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks JLS for the response!
    Spark plugs were on the back of my mind, but after you mentioned it I realized it could give me a good history of how the previous owner drove it.
    The serpentine belt and the power steering fluid are good ideas, want to treat it right and give it a good, long life. I'll add those to the list.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2025 at 9:33 PM
  4. Apr 19, 2025 at 10:20 PM
    #4
    TG705

    TG705 Braaaap

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    King 2.5 coilovers, King 3.0 rear bypasses, Camburg uniball UCAs, RCI skid plates, Camburg front bumper, warn zeon 10s platinum winch, monster hook reaper shackles, Rigid Industries lights, SDHQ sliders, SDHQ A-pillar brackets, SPOD, 17" Method standard wheels, 315/70/17 Cooper STT tires, Morimoto XB LED headlights, Boon dock steel rear bumper, Durobumps front bumpstops, Deaver U748 with MCM shackles
    Don’t be worried about the trans, I thought the same before finally doing mine for the first time at 120k. I didn’t notice anything wrong and didn’t shift hard or anything, but after I did it, I noticed how much better it shifted. New fluid will only help, just make sure the fluid is at the correct level. I used the paper clip technique to jump the OBD port and worked like a charm.
     
    Tiptop93[OP] likes this.
  5. Apr 19, 2025 at 11:46 PM
    #5
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    You can do all of this yourself, you are more than capable enough. I would do just a drain and fill on the trans and see how it feels and depending how the fluid looks, think about doing another drain and fill at your next oil change.

    Front and rear diffs are stupid easy. Hardest part is being on level ground. 75w 90 on both and get a gasket kit on Amazon. For the transfer case do oem or ravenal.

    Do the pcv also, it's 8 bucks and takes 3 minutes.

    Coolant is easy too, getting to the block drains isn't bad just turn the wheels. If you feel like being extra thorough, take off heater core plumbing and blow some air through it to drain more.

    Clean your throttle body and your MAF sensor too. You should see mileage increase if those haven't been done in a while. Make sure to use actual MAF cleaner spray.

    Power steering is really easy too, get it out, fill, turn wheels to lock a few times and check level.

    I don't think you have zerks so no need to lube driveshaft. Maybe the slip yoke...

    Lastly top off your battery cells with DI water.

    While doing belt check water pump for seepage.

    Empty brake reservoir and refill then bleed brakes, this would probably be the hardest of all the items though not bad if you have a bleeder kit.

    Spark plugs would be a good idea since your already there. Definitely use the stock plugs from Toyota.

    Before all that, maybe run a can of seafoam or equivalent through tank and crankcase.
     
  6. Apr 20, 2025 at 8:07 AM
    #6
    Tiptop93

    Tiptop93 [OP] New Member

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    Thank you! TG and MadMax!

    TG- Good to hear you did not have issues after doing it at 120k, interesting that it shifted smoother!

    MadMax- Thanks for the response and the links! The diffs look super easy, I'm praying that the drain plugs come out without a fuss. I'll add those items to the list and be sure to inspect the water pump. I have a brake bleeding kit for the motorcycle, should make it a simple job but was going to wait and see what the brake fluid tester read. I heard they aren't super reliable but it at least might give me something to go off of if I check it bi annually.

    When cleaning the throttle body, are use also using the MAF Cleaner or I see CRC has a throttle body spray?

    Looks like I have some homework on youtube. PCV valve looks super simple along with the slip yoke. Cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor is on my "watch next" list.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2025 at 8:16 AM
    TG705 likes this.
  7. Apr 20, 2025 at 9:07 AM
    #7
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    The maf cleaner is a dedicated cleaner but the throttle body cleaner can be carb cleaner or actual throttle body cleaner.
     
  8. Apr 20, 2025 at 9:13 AM
    #8
    ZappBrannigan

    ZappBrannigan The mind is willing but the flesh is weak

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    Looks like a good list. They did away with the zerks on the driveshaft sometime in the 2018 model year. Mine does not have them.

    Do change the trans fluid.
     
    Tiptop93[OP] and MadMaxCanon like this.
  9. Apr 20, 2025 at 10:19 AM
    #9
    TG705

    TG705 Braaaap

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    King 2.5 coilovers, King 3.0 rear bypasses, Camburg uniball UCAs, RCI skid plates, Camburg front bumper, warn zeon 10s platinum winch, monster hook reaper shackles, Rigid Industries lights, SDHQ sliders, SDHQ A-pillar brackets, SPOD, 17" Method standard wheels, 315/70/17 Cooper STT tires, Morimoto XB LED headlights, Boon dock steel rear bumper, Durobumps front bumpstops, Deaver U748 with MCM shackles
    Definitely do the throttle body as others said. This was mine the same day I did the trans. The butterfly is supposed to be silver lol. Used Gumout carb cleaner

    IMG_0935.jpg
     
  10. Apr 20, 2025 at 10:53 AM
    #10
    Tiptop93

    Tiptop93 [OP] New Member

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    Thank you all! I'll be spending a day doing all these services once I'm back state side. Now I just need to order to parts/oils.
     
    TG705 likes this.
  11. Apr 20, 2025 at 11:48 AM
    #11
    Wallygator

    Wallygator Well Zippedy Da Do!

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    Use this for the transfer case. It's listed as compatible to the Toyota golden child transfer case oil.

    https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w
     
    Tiptop93[QUOTED][OP], TG705 and Mater like this.
  12. Apr 20, 2025 at 2:46 PM
    #12
    Tiptop93

    Tiptop93 [OP] New Member

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    Wow the OEM oil is $$$!! Thanks for the compatible oil!
     

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