What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Thanks!

 

This is what I have hanging on mine. Not sure what I can do with these, or if I'll just need to use the trailer harness I posted on earlier

 

That is the 11 pin Trailer Converter connector T 9 put there by Toyota for those that had tow pkg or for those wanting to install towing capabilties later.

You could use a Curt 55378 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness that would plug into that T 9 connector. You'd also have to hook it up to the Option Connector O 3 up by the battery put there for just this purpose. The Curt instructions will explain it all.

$51 Curt Manufacturing CURT 55378 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Toyota Tundra , Black

Amazon.com: Curt Manufacturing CURT 55378 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Toyota Tundra , Black : Automotive

 

Hell yeah, thank you for this! Should make it all much easier. Here's the instruction video. Embedded version doesn't work but the link in the window should
I think this is connection by the battery you were talking about and referenced in the video?

 

I believe so and appears to be capped. The conductor should be black in color ? It goes back to that 11 pin connector T 9 position 6.

 

Box of parts arrived for the lower control arm swap. Now to find the time to do this and the valve covers.

Also, now I'm tracking down a new whistle noise.
Happens at the same speed/rpms.
Right at 1500rpms, and 40mph, it starts and gets slightly louder to 45mph as if its ramping up, then dies out and begins again around 60mph. Like a whistle/turbo spooling noise, but not as high pitched. Its faint, but there. It seems to stop when I let off the pedal, so appears to be load related.

Tried to catch it on my phone, but the tire/road noise drones it out too much to hear.

Im thinking driveline but really hoping its not TC, trans or diff...
I checked notes and changed the TC/diff fluids about 25k ago. So almost due. Trans is the "sealed" unit and I've not changed it out...but it's on the to do list.

Any input?

 

Good ol single stage white

Hell yea thanks I’ll check out the refresh thread later

I just installed those about a month or two ago. Man are they stiff! Installed fairly easy, got rid of the shaking, but takes a little extra umph to close the tailgate. It’s settled a bit now, or I’ve gotten used to it, regardless im happy with it

 

Got some T2S prep done. Finally.

Replaced the rear brakes. This was so much easier than before. The brakes are sooooo much better now.



I think I'll do some new calipers when I get back home. These piston seals are shot.








New goodness installed.


Sexy.


The drivers side gave us fits. I beat that fucking rotor with a rubber mallet, then a 4lb sledge and got nada. I felt like a NE tundra owner for a bit. Had to get some bolts to run into those weird little holes to push the rotors off the studs. Fortunately, @JakeJake recommended I pick up some of the random bolts from when we picked up the sequioa axle, and they just came in handy.

With the new rears all the pulsing stopped. These brakes stop amazing. So, so much better than my old setup, but maybe the same as a well working system. Still a world of difference to me.

After that we adjusted the coilovers to level it out. I was at:
35.75 DF
37.75 PF
38 DR
39 PR

We got it mostly even just by lifting the drivers coilover about 2". I'm gonna let it ride through T2S then see how the new UCAs go in. I got a round tuit form @Sirfive so I gotta get shit done. Here's how it's sitting now:

 

Been busy turkey hunting...but the UPS dude came today. Work for Sunday.

 

Also, mine is already hooked up to the battery with a 30a fuse. Is this part of the tow package? The line runs from the positive terminal/30a fuse circled in yellow and runs behind the fuse box to the Option Connector also circled.

 

Your front piston seals are past due too

What did you end up doing about the wheel bearing?

Im not sure how well the e brake cables are secured, buy you may want to put an eyeball on those.
Also, mark and then check the spring perch bolts periodically until you're sure that they aren't moving.




You boys are stressing me TF out with your last minute prep.

 

Hmmm….well that O 3 Option connector is indeed part of the tow pkg but can’t say why someone added the non OEM 30A inline fuse.

While measuring that middle pin # 6 of T 9 connector in back, does it have 12vdc ?

If so, pull the 30amp fuse. If the 12vdc goes away, someone in the past has already got you taken care of on that step.

 

Yep, that's part of it. Here's a pic of the Curt kit I installed.

 

That plug for my truck is the daytime running lamps. I have it unplugged now because I hate having my lights on in the daytime.

 

I'll try and do this today if I get my curt harness kit in this afternoon already, just ordered it last night. 30a would be overkill for sure, but I'm fine with that and like you said one less step to do instead of having to wire in that 10a fuse line. I'll have the nilight led strips and the 3rd brake light from the shell, along with 2 switches.

DId you remove the 30a fuse/line or is it one of those other lines coming out of the + in that picture?

Interesting, mine is plugged in but I don't have Daytime running lights

 

No DRL's, that's something altogether different, not the same harness/connector.

 

Maybe its something different between AC/DC and older first gen to newer first gen. My 06 DC has the tow package and DRL, but the only connector that I have by the battery is the for the DRL.

 

Took delivery of a new Denso radiator from rockauto. Looks like minimal damage but wanted to upload anyway. How does this weird gritty jammy line look to you folks?

 

I'd be ok with it. It's very minor and I doubt that it would affect the cooling in any way.

 

Thanks, yeah I thought I was being a bit worrisome but since this will be my first ever rad job, figured I'd check with the crew.

 

3 months after it's installed it'll look like Verdun after WW1 with all the bug craters, hah.

 

That looks just like the Curt kit

Beat me to it!

 

So the 30a fuse I have already on the battery is part of the curt kit? The pic that CC80 posted has the red 10a fuse that comes with it the kit I see. Sorry, I'm a bit confused

 

It looks just like mine does and I installed it about 10 years ago

 

As the video you posted said, the Curt C55378 kit comes with a 10A fuse. The reason it's only 10A is because a 4-way plugin only draws 9 amps....6 amps for the tail light circuits and 3 amps for the turn and brake circuits.

from the Curt website....

T-Connector Location T3

• Tail Light Circuits 6.0 Amps
• Turn and Brake Circuits 3.0 Amps

 

Works great. Purchase it.

 

@JakeJake

Uh.

I think you have a small fabrication error.

​

 

Older model versus newer model, I suspect. Wiring/install for tow pkg in later years changed, I'd call it "better-integrated"

Hell yeah, that video was awesome. I didn't realize the tow pkg wiring was already there, but capped at both ends. That's wild, but also awesome. Makes adding it a lot easier for you guys.

Is it a whistle or more of a howl?

I honestly think having my lights on during the day is maybe the only thing that's forced people to see me out on the road, and why I haven't had anyone pull out in front of me.

 

@akeake

 

"Real G's move in silence like lasajna"