Oil change horror

Pictures says it all. Plus plastic tab that broke knocked a hole in the cartridge. Will have to tow the truck to the dealer. Last dealership torqued this with 1000 ft/lbs. So angry and frustrated ... and bummed.

 

Is it a daily driver? If not, crank that thing off and buy the aluminum one. Amazon 2 day shipping.

 

X2 on the aluminum housing

 

And better to do your own oil changes

 

Not a big deal, do not freak, this happens.
Get the metal oil filter "socket" that grabs the flats of the entire housing, you'll get it off.
The ones that grab only the wings are no good. Make sure you are clear of the locking tab when trying to turn the filter housing. The torque spec for the housing is 18-22 ft lbs. Reason #468 to do all your own routine maintenance, and not let "lube techs" touch ur stuff.

Like others have said, metal housing good idea (remember to swap the guts).

Below is the tool, you'll need a 23mm socket to drive this adapter.
Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640 Oil Filter Socket Wrench for Toyota/Lexus
Link:

$21 Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640 Oil Filter Socket Wrench for Toyota/Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PK3AG

and since your buying stuff on Amazon, you can get this thing, which is an adapter that threads into the housing and will drain the housing without spilling a drop.

Toyota, Lexus, Scion Oil Filter Drain Tool for 2.5L to 5.7L Engines
by Motivx Tools
Link: http://a.co/88c67SB

 

Mine was almost the same. I didnt break a hole in mine, but I did break off a bunch of the tabs trying to get it off. I replaced it with the aluminum one. I'm wondering how its going to be when I have to change it again because I noticed that if the aluminum one was snugged down tight (but not He-man tight) it leaked. When I loosened it to the point that I thought it would definitely leak, it doesn't.

 

when torqued to spec it will not leak, if it does you put the seal in the wrong location on the filter housing

 

Im not sure what spec is, but it can't be that much. I know mine was on waaaaaaay to tight when I went to change the oil.

 

hello all

first of all i want to thank all you guys for your advice. im part of many forums and i must say the tundra community are full of very good-natured and helpful people. my other forums are full of arrogant elitist it makes me sick some times. lol

so here is the lowdown. i purchased my 2016 tundra used about 2 weeks ago. i always did my own oil changes so i thought i mine as well get it over the first time and learn. after watching many videos and reading threads on here i purchased the following:

aluminum replacement housing, toyota oil filter wrench, fumoto oil drain valve, oil filter drain tool, and of course a new filter.

so i am all set, right? go over to my buddy's house for dinner and decide to change it there. everything goes well until my buddy cracks a joke that it would be funny if the plastic oil filter cartridge breaks. i place oil filter wrench on and bam ... regular socket wrench does not have enough leverage. i would say i am pretty strong and regularly dumbbell press 100 lbs dumbbells so im thinking, "ok the dealer torqued this way too much". i asked my buddy for a breaker bar and still not go. he gives me a huge breaker bar and that is when one of the tabs snap off. i thought it was no big deal because it has happened to other people so i tell him to give me an impact driver. thats when all the tabs start snapping and once crucial one that knocks a hole in the cartridge. so i am so pissed now and so my buddy goes upstairs to google youtube to find a solution while i let the steam slowly diffuse out of my ears.

he comes back with 2 pieces of paper and says this sounds crazy but this has helped so many others on youtube. he continues to insert in the oil filter wrench and says the play within the wrench is causing uneven torque at certain points in the cartridge. i watch as he hammers the paper stuffed in the oil wrench onto the cartridge. first time he tries it slips so i said maybe we need 3 sheets. he comes back with a third sheet and now its hammered super tight on the cartridge. we shove the impact wrench in and let it rip. nothing happens for a good 10 seconds and bam ..... it slowly starts to turn and we start cracking up.

below is the aftermath. so to the person who posted the 3 sheets video .... KUDOS TO YOU BROTHER!!!! i wouldnt be surprised if he was on this forum. sincerely appreciate you for this video.

so yes ... i agree i would never let the dealer do my oil change on my car. i cant imagine but they probably used an impact driver to seat in the cartridge.

the irony of the story ... as i drained the oil way before my dilemma with oil cartridge, i watched as the stream of oil cascaded into the oil pan and the sun was shining in the background and noticed the beautiful golden translucent tone coming through the the streaming band and said to myself ... "MAN THIS OIL IS STILL GOOD AND PROBABLY DOESNT NEED AN OIL CHANGE"

THANKS EVERYONE WHO TOOK THE TIME TO RESPOND

CHEERS TO YOU ALL!!! ESPECIALLY MR 3 SHEETS OF PAPER GUY ON YOUTUBE!

btw ... oil filter cartridge torque should be 18 ft/lbs not 18,000.

 

I'm that guy who has the free oil changes from my dealer for the next three and a half years... Could y'all take pity on me and let me know what I'm looking at?

My Tacoma the oil filter was on top of the engine, off to the drivers side, and was your typical screw on filter. If I remember correctly on the 5.7L the filter is in the middle, on the bottom of the engine near the oil pan? What is it that's breaking? And judging from photos it's a drop in filter element rather than a can?

 

lars ... yes its a drop in filter element. the plastic oil filter cartridge tabs are breaking. they come stock but you can replace with an aluminum one which i did purchase on ebay. it was a little cheaper if you can wait. it will save you much heartache if you can replace it without drama like me. LOL

btw ... free oil changes for 3.5 years is nothing to be ashamed of.

 

oh hey you must be part of Rennlist.com too?!

glad you got this sorted out

 

Thanks... This is the first car/truck I've owned that I've not done at least one oil change on.... I figured I'd milk them as long as I can. I drive enough that it comes out to about one oil change every two to two and a half months.

 

thanks b737 ... i am not privy to rennlist.com unfortunately or fortunately. lol. thanks for the link for the socket type wrench. i think i will pick it up. seems much better engineered for the job.

cheers

 

lol yes absolutely, no more oil change horrors

 

Watch this:


He's a member on here too.

I also have the dealership free oil change. And I'm thinking I'm just gonna let them keep doing it seeing how involved and an utter PITA an oil change on the Tundra is now. Used to be just an oil filter itself on the outside of the engine. Now it's over engineered nightmare.

 

I do my oil changes every 5k with 5w-30 and they're incredibly easy to do without making a mess. You just need these 3 tools, which are $20-30 each..

Engine oil pan quick drain valve:
https://amzn.to/2roxa0M

Oil filter drain adapter:
https://amzn.to/2jAR04Q

Cap wrench:
https://amzn.to/2KEAzR4

 

I also currently don't have a driveway or suitable garage to do it in.

 

lol the oil change on the tundra could not be any further from “involved”. It is no different than any other vehicle. It is simple. Esp given the ample amount of room we are afforded.

I’m sure I’m not the only one here who got “free oil changes” and never returned to the dealer again post delivery, and diy.

 

I haven't had a issue like some of you are experiencing with the oil filter housing, that sucks. That aluminum one looks way better. Ill have to go on this Enter-Wed tomorrow and pick one up just to be safe from Amazon. I wonder if the dealer would have an issue with replacing the plastic one with the aluminum one, when they do my next oil change which is soon. @TINMAN , Thanks the FYI on the part reference.

 

itll be easier going forward knowing that everything is back to torque specs.

 

Seems like its more cost effective to pay the dealerships/service station to change oil these days. Whenever I go to the auto parts supply and price out the oil and filter its way higher cost wise than paying someone else to do it. Thirty years ago it was easier and less expensive to DIY. Today not so much.

 

Happened to me once, always have a spare on hand. And get the metal one.

 

You're probably paying full MSRP for name brand supplies vs. whatever the dealers use.

Before tax and any sales/rebates, 10 quarts of mobil 1 at costco/walmart is about $44 and an OEM filter is $8. My area they charge around $75 for a synthetic change, and you don't get 2 extra quarts for next time.

With rebates and sales which happen A LOT, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum will get down to about $20 for 10 quarts. Now the oil change runs me about $28-30 vs $75. And I don't overtorque the housing or leave off bolts from the skid.

 

Good on ya Ninja. Around here the change runs about $55 at the stealerships. The $10-15 in savings isn’t worth it for me. Just out of curiousity, do your service stations recycle your old used oil? That was a nice feature back when I diy’d back in the day. I could bring my used oil to any station for free.

 

Just some comic relief

 

Around here, all of the major auto parts chains recycle used oil for free, as does Sears and Walmart.